Teun

13 hours ago, maerijn said:

I just cut the hose in 2 pieces and plugged them with some bolts haha

Did the same thing, fixed it, realy happy. Done with MOT now. 

7 hours ago, maerijn said:

Hi Teun I used to have problems with a high idle aswell, turned out there is a vacuum line which originaly runs from the throttle body to a sensor on the power steering rack and then to the inlet manifold and I had looped this line because I dont have power steering, but it should be blocked. This reduced my idle with about 3-400 rpm. If you need help you can send me a PM 

On 16-10-2017 19:34:20, Teun said:

 

This causes the problem, i did the same thing, looping them. Mine has 2 on the throttle body tough. Any advice on were to get the caps?

Thank you in advance!

On 24-12-2017 23:12:15, Stu said:

Base timing can also greatly effect isle speed. Have you set the distributor to base 10 degrees while in diagnostoc mode?

Did not check the timing, tbh i have never messed with the timing. I suspect the pcv, if i remove it and block the line it idles around 1000. With it attached it idles around 1200.

by the way. I have a efi ignition based system, not a distributor.

On 24-12-2017 22:20:01, Calum122 said:

Idle control valve to the vaccuum? You can get away with just disassembling them and cleaning them, but to be fair, not needed for an MOT anyway, just makes it harder to start in the colder climates, but could unplug it for the MOT and worry about it later.

 

Great work on this by the way.

Thanks! When i replaced it i cleaned it so i do not suspect this to be the problem.

Please help, the car idles to high, this is the last thing to solve for mot. 

I replaced the iacv (had ons laying around) no difference

If i disconnect the vacuum sensor it idles fine, could it be defect? 

Spraying the bay with deo does not effect the idle so i don't expect it to be a vacuum leak.

Thanks for advice

On 16-10-2017 19:34:20, Teun said:

 

On 12-10-2017 22:27:48, Teun said:

 

Update time! Excuse the quotes above, i cant delete them on my phone for some reason...

Got the car running. The wheelbearlings happen to be shot. Had them replaced and drove the car tot the first time yesterday. To bad it was slippery in the road.

Realy glad i went with the 5efe instead of the 4efe. It rips pretty Nice!

Now i need new mot and they have to check the car and change the papers so it says 5efe on it.

Realy stoked! Cant wait to test it on a track next year!

Edit: i'll be sure to add some vids once i have some spare time.

On 16-10-2017 22:55:28, whitestar said:

Hi again! Almost a year has passed and all the photos have disappeared.

This is my EP70 from yesterday.

Sick! What are the specs of the wheels?

On 12-10-2017 22:27:48, Teun said:

Replaced the clamp with a smaller and that solved the problem.

Next problem... Remember that the compression was a little low? I figured it was not to low so i bought the car. I may have a blown headgasket :'). On idle and low rpm the engine hesitates:

What are your thoughts about this?

I'm pretty sure i found it. When i rev the engine the lights get brighter. I wrote online that perhaps the alternator is bad then. This would make sence since i f*ed it up by mixing up the terminals. 

Will update soon about this.

On 10-10-2017 16:30:11, maerijn said:

Coulbe corrosion on the pipe or the clip has become too weak

Replaced the clamp with a smaller and that solved the problem.

Next problem... Remember that the compression was a little low? I figured it was not to low so i bought the car. I may have a blown headgasket :'). On idle and low rpm the engine hesitates:

What are your thoughts about this?

On 10-10-2017 16:30:11, maerijn said:

 

On 10-10-2017 16:30:11, maerijn said:

Could be corrosion on the pipe or the clip has become too weak

Cleaner up the pipe, replaced the José clamp. Still same issue. Kinda driving me insane now... Stupid little dripping.

Got a realy annoying coolant leak... Tried 2 hoses but both start dripping if the engine is cold. Might be corrosion on the pipe? Any toughts?:

https://youtu.be/zl97tsLyXDs

Did some things. Replaced the soldingering and added shrink sleeve on fuelpump wiring.

Still shorted and blew the fuse.

Dropped the tank once again and figured it out. The problem being:

This thoughed the tank itself and caused the short. So for everyone doing this at home, make sure it doesnt hit the tank.

I'm out of fuses right now lol. Happy to find the problem tough and fixed the wiring.

Top fix it i removed some of the copper with a file and added electricle tape to make sure it wont short again:

Checked it by meeting the resistence, still shorted. Added the last piece to the puzzle.

The fuelpump fuse keeps blowing after i installed the tank back under the car. 

Strange, so out of the car it works fine, installed under the car it desides to blow the fuse :,). Had to drop the tank 99 times now, lol!

Could this happen because of a restriction in the fuelline?

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on? If it does the ecu is still powering up so could be ok.

Update: it starts and runs. Since i did not feel like studying all week i did some work on the Starlet. I started by fixing the wiring at the ignition switch. When i got this fixed it didn't start...

Then i figured, the only thing i changed after installing everything in the Starlet is the fuelpump. Perhaps something is causing the problem there.

After dropping the tank i found the problem! The i left the custom fuelline to long, i figured it wouldnt hurt anything. Well, it did. The fuelline got between the tank and the chassis of the car. This caused the line to be restricted and not give any fuel to the fuelrail.

After checking the pump it self i reinstalled everything, tried it, and it started right up!

Realy happy now ofcorse, it's all a learning experience for me since i'm not a mechanic.

I do have a two little questions:

First, were does this line from the fuelrail Go to?

Second, i see some little lines that used to go to the charcoal canister, should i install the canister of delete those lines and cap them off?

Changed the wiring to the ignition switch. The car cranks on the right turn of the key now but no spark or fuel. I guess the ecu got fried.

Like i said, i will start diagnosing once i am done with school. Kinda bummed on my dumb ass putting the battery wires on the wrong way.

Found the problem. The ignition switch that i made doesnt function right. If i turn the key to acc the engine starts to crank and the fuelpump should gets a signal from the same ignition.

My guess is that this is because the switch of the Starlet is for a carburated engine, since this does not have the fuelpump it doesnt send a signal or something like that.

I cant realy try the one of the Paseo so i will have to look into this further.

-Edit, it should work, i Just wired it incorrect i guess. Due to study i cant work on it this and next week. I will het back to it after that.

Found the problem. The ignition switch that i made doesnt function right. If i turn the key to acc the engine starts to crank and the fuelpump should gets a signal from the same ignition.

My guess is that this is because the switch of the Starlet is for a carburated engine, since this does not have the fuelpump it doesnt send a signal or something like that.

I cant realy try the one of the Paseo so i will have to look into this further.

that suckssss

hope you figure out the problem

but how didnt you check that before you plugged in everything tho

did you fix the wires properly(heb je de kabelboom wel zelf gedaan of laten doen?)

I had the battery in and out the car a few times so forgot to take a good look. The wiring is the same as in the Paseo, when i took it out it did run.

As you may have read i did modify the pump. I will try to start the car with starter fluid to rule out the ecu and tegen drop the gastank to check the wiring on the pump since the relay does make a clicking sound.

Engine is in. I drilled and tapped the hole, all fine. Tried to start the car, it does turn over but wont start. The fuelpump does not prime. Tried to hardwire the pump to the battery but i guess i didn't find the right wires or the pump isn't wired up correct.

Another fun thing happend, NOT. The Starlet battery has the + / - poles on the oppositie sides compared to the one of the Paseo... So i guess i know fried the ecu :'), Saw some Sparks bit the 100a fues did not blow strangely enough but the ecu makes random clicks when the key is at on now.

Any tips on how to trouble shoot the fuel pump?

no biggie

just call the person and asl for your engine mount

im sure they dont need it....

True, i figured out that i still had the most important mount. Only thing is, the one that fits to the block and to the other mount is missing. Fixed it now tough, pretty sure it is strong enough.

Went to all the scrapers in the area, no one had the mount.

So i decided to make it fit. 2 of the 3 points Line up, i only have to drill and tap one hole in the 5efe mount.

FML. U know how a half An hour job can turn into a day? So, i tried to drop the engine in but never realised i had to put the Starlet engine mount on the engine, NOOB, i know...

I was lucky enough to find the mount in my pile of parts. I sold the engine with the mount that bolts on the engine.

Hot some O Z 14 inch rims that (imo) suit the car. The fitment up front is spot on.

I need the 14 inch to fit the Paseo brakes.

Now i have to decide what color i want, gray or silver. Color suggestions are welcome! Might do gloss black

Once i sanded and polished the grill it started to look much better:

One thing i saw when i was browsing for ideas is to remove the lower grill. I figured that it would help for cooling and i like the look so:

I still have to refit the license plate with a smaller surrounding and fit it higher so it doenst block the air flow.

Warming up the bottles works great indeed. I guess i shouldnt use the clear then... I was hoping for more shine.

I will try sanding it down and only using black.

-edit, i can always polish it ofcorse.