AlbertaBeef

8 hours ago, Sendoff said:

Have Blitz K1-200v

Nice turbo ... I'm wondering if I can afford the "rarity premium" ...=D ...  How much are you asking and what kind of shape is it in?

Just to let folks know - it appears it was all due to a faulty rad cap.  I've replaced with a newer 1.1 and it's working great.  Using an infrared thermometer the temps on the rad hoses and thermostat housing after hard drive about 185-190F when I also have the A/C running.  I can live with that.

44 minutes ago, lukEp said:

Yeah that oil has not mixed with water yet. Is the heater blowing hot? I'd try rad cap first it's the Cheapest option. There should always be water in the over flow all the time, there is a max and min mark and it will transfer water from the rad to the tank- tank to rad as it gets hot and cools. 

It's hard to tell if the heater is blowing hot because it's unseasonably (30C or more) warm lately.  But it *seems* to blow warm.

I'm hoping it's just the rad cap.  I went for a short trip again last night with no issues...  here's hoping there was no damage with the previous days' overheating ...  I don't plan to build/forge this thing until next year, so don't want to do a headgasket before then.

If it stalls due to a very low idle, and the code is a dirty idle control valve, I'd definitely clean the idle control valve.  =D

also, there's an idle speed adjustment screw on the intake, right side on the back-side (nearest the vehicle firewall) under a little round rubber cover about 1cm round. You may have to play with that to get your best idle.

8 hours ago, lukEp said:

Picture of the oil please. When you say brown like a milky brown or just transparent brown. Could possibly just be a failed rad cap. I've had it before on my old celica and all it does is open and dump water when giving it some beans, if I just drove normal it wouldn't loose a drop. 

Hey there, oil is shown in the video link above ...  I'm thinking it's just dirtier than I'm used to after looking at both the dipstick and the oil cap. 

So yesterday my car decided to overheat ... during city stop/go driving on a 32C day while driving somewhat agressively.  There was bubbling/boiling coolant in my overflow tank, and a loss (from overflow) of coolant in my system - about 2L in total that I had to refill once it cooled.

Trying to diagnose the issue ...  The lower rad hose starts to get fluid moving when my temp reads about 85C ... so I don't think it's the thermostat (which was replaced last summer, about 6,000km ago).  The radiator fan seems to be engaging where/when you expect it to ...  If I have the engine off but turn the ignition on (while hot) fan kicks in right away, so relays, etc. seem to work fine.  Also, there's no leaks found under car EXCEPT that one time yesterday when it was boiling over.

Here's why I'm wondering about the head gasket ...  I had coolant in my overflow today after a test drive, (though not boiling in the overflow) which did NOT get sucked back in while cool.  Also, my oil dipstick is pretty brown (see vid link, below), yet I only have about 500km on a fresh oil change of 5w30 Castrol Edge Extended-Performance full synthetic oil - so I find the colour suspicious. (Though truth be told, I seldom look at my dipstick within the first week or so after an oil change, so can't tell you what it normally looks like at 500km.)

That being said, the coolant in my rad is PRISTINE.  Not a spec of contamination in the rad, hoses or on the cap.  Also, there is no white smoke whatsoever, so I am somewhat confused.  Does anyone have any suggestions as what else to check?  I'm going to throw a new radiator cap on and see if that makes any difference, but I'm perplexed...

FYI EP82 4E-FTE, mostly stock except with WEPR manifold/downpipe and running 12psi boost.  Generic 2-core honda aluminum racing rad.

Anyone selling a ct9 hybrid and willing to ship?   I'm considering buying new from TD ... but wouldn't mind a used one as the missus is getting annoyed at the money going into my 4E-FTE lately ... 

Currently running stock EP82 4E-FTE with WEPR manifold/downpipe and stock tired CT9. 

Thanks. It was an amazing drive! 

Took a short drive today and decided to take a few pictures ...  

This is my 1991 Toyota Tercel with an EP82 4E-FTE in it.  Great engine for higher-altitude driving!  Pics taken about an hour from my house:

Hi from across the pond!

I'm the proud long-term owner of a 1991 Toyota Tercel that now has a working 4E-FTE swapped into it. I've found through various Google searches that ukstarletowners seems to be one of the top sources of information as I've needed support, and so I figured it might be time to register and join up!

I trust it's OK that I'm not in the UK - I'm at least in the Commonwealth, haha.

Here's what it currently looks like:

It's pretty clean with a rust-free tercel chassis from the southwestern USA. I painted it Toyota 8P1 (Speedway Blue):

The engine fits in to the mounts, but you need to have a harness fab'd for it. Too bad the intercooler cover is a little broken. And this pic is without cleaning for a while... so don't judge too harshly =P

I've added some interior touches - seats from a Toyota Paseo (nicer, bolstered and with an extra 3cm of headroom) and the Momo steering wheel ...

And it's one of VERY FEW 4th-generation Tercels in Alberta (maybe the only one) with working A/C. Yes, I know it's a heavy, power-robbing feature ... but it was 32-33C a couple weeks ago and this Canadian would melt without A/C at those temps. I'm still running a 10 year old stereo because ... well, it works fine for me, LOL. I have some Pioneer 6.5" two-ways in the front doors and 6.5" three-ways on the rear deck. It's lacking in bass, but works for me.

Next step is getting that US cluster changed for a Canadian Paseo one in KPH with a tach ... Then I've many, many upgrades planned.

Anyway, it's nice to join you all, thanks for having a great, very useful site!