Ivan

Hi All,

I am the owner of www.ep91.com domain and want to put it up for sale. I do not want the domain to be owned by the registars that charge an extorsion to buy the domain again.

Price - throw me an offer

Options - i have a fully owned version of VBulletin suite with maintenance (not the cheapest thing in the world) that im happy to sell off for an additional cost. The hosting is also quite reliable and cheap that im happy to transfer.

Contents - i have about 300MB of data and details and images of starlets that is very useful (and quite a bit categorised). I am happy to share it all if someone knows where to put it up.

CONTACT: Send me PM.

Cheers,

Ivan

agreed, except.

you dont use the 5e marks when timing. it runs like a piece of shit. use the 4e marks.

you can use a 4e tensioners.

Thats only because you must have done something wrong.

USE THE 5E MARKS ON A 5E BLOCK!

USE THE 4E MARKS ON A 4E BLOCK!

Ivan

Is anyone having probs connecting now? a DB error?

can be resolved by porting wastegate and getting better actuator.

Regards,

Ivan

Alfa Romeo 147 GTA

can you post the pics here?im interested in seeing this

by the way, if you roll a car on its side, almost always it will damage the roof as the a and b pillars are designed to cave in certian sections which would twist the roof. Also your rear quarter pannel would be severly damaged and if that be the case, its not worth repairing.

Ivan

That sil-eighty is beautiful!

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HAH! Wait for it to go drifting this weekend and you will see the S15 front end, along with a big hole in the front wing where our new cooler fits in. We make ducting for the coolers (air and oil), and have changed the ignition with bigger coils and leads and fueling has been changed aswell.

Ill get pics soon

Regards,

Ivan

Sorry to hear about it...

But i must commend you on you smart repair work. It looks really good and people wouldnt even notice that the ring is there. Very nice. But when you get some more money, get the locks removed and it will look alot nicer

Now onto the radiator, how big is it?...the hole?

If its a small hole you can get this cement paste for steel/alloy that i have used on radiators before and it keeps the tight and fixes your problem. After using it on about 5 different radiators and not having any issues, for a small hole i wouldnt think twice. If its a bit bigger hole then yes, get a new one.

Hope it helps,

Ivan

How much would it be in price i have only a hks induction and ht leads on engine mods i will be getting the engine rebuilt and powerflow system and engine port and flowed but we are talking 5- 9 months time lots of money needed but i was looking at a 5ehfe would it fit do you no

Thanks

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Ok, im not sure im quite following but from what i gather, you are doing a 5e non turboed? right?

Well the inlet mani fits a 5e, we have one person in hong kong running one, and im about to run one on a 5e aswell.

Although both of ours are turbocharged. If you are interested in a quad throttle body setup, we may be able to sort something out for you

PM me exactly what you are building, and what you expect to achieve out of it and i can guide you into the right direction. If you are doing n/a work, then you will have to do alot of work to get some figures but you will get there with persistence, and it would be nice to see someone get some power without a turbo for a change.

Regards,

Ivan

hahaha, busted ;)

Dont pretent like you dont want it scutch0

can i get the inlet on its own i have a starlet sr if i can what gain will it have if you no mate ??

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Hi,

Its hard to say what gains you would have exactly as it all depends on the engine, or what modifications you have already done.

The inlet manifold wil give you better top end performance and would be more linear power curve. You could run a bigger throttle too.

If you are planning on turbocharging the car at any point, then its well worth it. Its the type of modification that works very well with other mods, but on its own (with a naturally aspirated engine) you might find it only helps top end and thats all.

It definately would make a difference, but to what extent is the question.

Regards,

Ivan

I love those 15's... they are a very racey kind of sex

ivan

Hi everyone,

Well i said i would start making kits for starlets and finally we have done it. We currently have the TD04L kit, an inlet manifold and a few other bits and peices.

RoadRunner is a Sydney based fabrication company that makes creations on high performance cars. They work on all sorts of cars, and all sorts of tasks.

If you are from the Sydney area, RoadRunner can install most components, and can do custom fabrications aswell. From intercoolers, engine swaps, custom exhaust manifolds and wiring in computers. They do it all, and do it all very well.

We are looking at expaning the different types of kits like CT9 and T25 upgrades.

We will also be looking into some suspension products (braces that whiteline dont make), plug-in computers, exhaust system kits and ofcourse intercooler kits.

We have all our current items listed in our own new section:

http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=15

(thanks heaps Enzo for providing that for us)

Here are some examples of the work RR does:

Fernando Wiehrl's 180... There have been quite a few changes to the car so ill get the latest pics after saturday's driftday.

Customers Cressida and an example of the welding

Here is a quick example of what our manifolds look like:

Exhaust Manifold

Exhaust Manifold

Inlet Manifold

Inlet Manifold

Thanks,

Ivan

SARD do not make a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

SARD make a fuel pressure regulator at a fixed rate of 1:1 i believe.

Sorry, just had to clarify that one as its allways missinterprited.

Regards,

Ivan

Yes, undo the top 24mm bolt and let everything drain otherwise the excess oil will bust your seals and possibly do more damage.

Regards,

Ivan

you have to press the piston in and twist it (anti clockwise from memory) to push the piston in so it can fit over the new pads.

The fronts you only need to push them in and dont need to twist it.

The twisting past is for the handbrake.

Ivan

Shotpening is a process of shooting small metal balls at the rods, where it stresses the metal in a way that it strengthens it. Thats all i know about it, but it basically makes it stronger.

Also the polishing of the sidewalls removes any imperfections before you shotpene them. Because the rods are made from a cast, these imperfections can lead to weak points.

As for the compatibility between the GZE and 5e rods, they are not compatible, but can be made compatible with custom made pistons (where the gudgeon pin sits higher) and the grinding of the crank as the journal size is smaller. But then your stroke would be increased, and you would have some tuff rods.

Regards,

Ivan

Hey, i have done a fair bit of research and have taken a comparison photo of all the different OEM rods that are available for the 4e/5e engines along with some comparison photos of 2 other toyota engines, being the 4agze(import levin) and the 2zzge (new celica).

Your comments are more than welcome and any questions you may have. It was a bit of effort getting all the rods in the one place... so i hope you dont mind me branding the photos.

Also, a very big thankyou to boostedep91 for letting me use some of the rods. You have an awesome car and your a great bloke. Thanks heaps!

As for what it tells you, everyone has to make your own decision. My observations are as follows:

-If you are building the 5e engine, and you are going to invest into some good forged pistons, i would use the 4AGZE rods. It is possible and it will be very strong. Also because the journal size is smaller, it means you can stroke the engine up to about 1560-1570cc. Oversize the piston by 40thou and you have one very good package. It is mucking about and i would leave it to someone good to build the engine as its a mix-n-match and stuffed up quite easily.

-the 4efe and 5efe rods are good if your going to run n/a performance. they are lighter considerably but dont provide great streangth at all. I would use these with caution when turbocharging.

-the 4efte rods are quite solid but like all the other rods, are quite rough. I would get them shotpened and the sidewalls polished to take out any imperfections.

-the 5efhe rods are actually thicker than the 4efte rods which was supprising at first. They are more solid but like all the other toyota rods (excluding the 2zzge rods) they are rough and not as nice i would have expected. Both the 4efte and 5efhe rods would handle some good power if you clean them up a bit.

I have many photos that are indepth and i will provide more indepth info in the future, but your looking at after the year. I will be doing more of these for everyone in the future, just be patient... and feedback is welcome

Regards,

Ivan

P.S. I copies the above from my post on austarletclub...

Best cage is a weld-in custom made cage... but if its not soley a racecar id go with a cusco 6 point rollcage boltin style.

What is it for?

Ivan

this should be in the technical - bodywork section.

And yes it has been done but not the best looking in my opinion. Its been done in AU and in NZ. and i think in JP but cant remember.

will look for photos but i doubt i saved it.

Ivan

hey,

can we just confirm that you are after a rally "look" or do you want the perks of a rally car? i can tell you know which one is much cheaper but you may aswell stop pretending and do the real thing.

Firstly you will need to strip the interior, get rid of the back seats, get a roll cage, harness and a set of 2 fixed non reclining bucket seats.

Then i would relocate the battery to the boot to help out with weight distribution.

You would want to probably remove all the wiring throughout the car that isnt needed (and there is alot of it).

Under the car you would go through all the bushes, and replace them. Get a set of good shocks/springs or coilovers, sway bars, and what not.

Get rid of those wheels, get some lightweight 16" rims or 15" rims.

If you want to go the full monty then get some graphics all over the car, and get the spoilers on the front and rear (and sideskirts).

Realistically, its not going to be a rally car just cause it looks like one and 9 times out of 10 its cheaper to buy a ready made rally car that someone is selling than to build it from scratch.

I hope i answered your question...otherwise ill blame the lack of sleep (",)

Ivan

Where the caliper bracket bolts to the hub on the mr2's it's 150mm appart on the starlet and levin calipers it's 130mm

Simon

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I just have to clarify that its not all MR2 brakes where the distance is 150mm.

Ivan

ill see what i can do for you boys over there...

there are a couple in sydney that i know off that i might be able to get my hands on (if they will split the engine...

Ill see what i can do.

Ivan

i have mine like this....

Rich.

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Very nice!

I like the way you have yours, whats the quality/finish like on it?

Mine go here:

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Thats neat, but not applicable to ep91's cause we dont have that little pocket. Its very inconspicuous though which i like... Very nice!

Did you make that blanking plate yourself? looks very neat cause there looks like it has a bevveled edge (as if it wsa meant to be there).

Ivan

sorry, i cant help you there, but i just bought 3 guages from http://www.justjap.com/parts_ngauges2.htm (as a set) and they provide a plate for a single DIN installation, (just below the stereo)... i would say they are prob one of the least inconspicuous places to put and look half descent for the price.

Ivan