Godspeed
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Posts posted by Godspeed
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19 hours ago, lukEp said:
It's not possible. There are bolts On the inside of the bellhousing that will need to be removed.
Oh awesome thanks lukEp
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On 10/25/2018 at 11:30 PM, SKINY said:
you sure it hasn't just popped out ? New circlip only 2 quid
Nah I thought that at the start, but its actually flopping around
but does anyone know if you can replace the bearing without taking the transmission out?
Cheers
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Hi everyone,
Are you able to change the diff bearing without taking the gearbox out of the car?
The drive shaft is flopping around in the gearbox at the moment
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4 hours ago, Calum122 said:
Mate, that's mental! An arduino is like 14MHz processor onboard. And like 32Kb of memory. Surely that's worse than the stock ECU.
Having a read on their pages LMAO. Wow. Okay but it hardly seems like a reliable tuners ECU. I'm not a mapper, but 16X16 load points doesn't seem like a lot...
Yeah it does seem crazy, but ill give it a go. its not going to cost me much.
If I do try it, ill be sure to post it on the forums here. It could be a cheaper option for people on a budget ;)
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I did receive a refund in the end, so happy in that respect.
Once I have converted mine to manual I might try going down the track of speeduino. It would only be a few hundred dollars to give it a go. Its a free open source ECU that's built on the Arduino platform.
Here is a link for anyone interested:
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22 minutes ago, Calum122 said:
Pretty simple stuff.
First check the actuator. Is it aftermarket (HKS?) or the stock.
The dual boost mode on these cars are primitive.
A the OEM actuator is dual port. The Hi/Lo button actuates a solenoid which determines which port the boost sensor actuators off (which spring preload to use).
If there is a hole in the sense line, it will bleed off gases, giving false readings to the actuator, causing the car to overboost and hit fuel cut.
If the actuator is aftermarket and adjustable, then it just needs the preload adjusting so it opens earlier.
Hopefully that makes sense.
Ahh that makes perfect sense.
I'm pretty sure its a standard actuator, Are there any other standard turbos that would fit on the standard manifold?
So I must have a boost leek somewhere in the high boost line.
Is there an easer way of connecting it up without having to connect to that hard line that goes behind the power steering pump? Just to see if that is the actual problem?
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Hey guys,
I have a standard glanza no mods done what so ever. Before I bought the car the owner before me had replaced the turbo (with a standard one I presume?)
So the car runs fine in low boost, as soon as you go high boost it seems to hit the fuel cut. no engine light comes on though.
I'm wondering if when he put the wastegate lines back on wrong? Does anyone have a diagram on how to plumb these up?
I bought the car cheap thinking this would be an easy fix.
How does the closed loop boost work on these cars? because if it works on low boost the wastegate must be opening, then something is going wrong when switching over to high boost.
Thanks in advance for the help
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On 18/06/2018 9:07:49, Stu said:
Hopefully you can get your refund. Definitely look at a Link though, just wire it into the factory harness piggy backing the factory ecu so it runs everything but the factory ecu keeps the auto shifting etc.
Thanks Stu, ill have to look into it. Where abouts are you from in NZ?
Matt has agreed to a refund after I took it to 2 tuners here, and they both said the same thing, automatic gear box is blocking it. So I have sent it back and they are testing the ECU. so I haven't seen any money yet.
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On 13/06/2018 2:59:58, gorganl2000 said:
https://epbible.weebly.com/wiring-diagrams.html
click on the ep82 ect automatic ecu pin out
at a quick glance, the only difference i see between the ECT and MT ecus is on connector 2---pin 16---sensor ground
Awesome thanks very much for that, I wonder if the EP82 is different to the EP91 Auto
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Hi there,
Does anyone have or know where I can find a ECU pin out diagram for a Automatic ECU. I have done a Google search and can only find manual ones.
Thanks
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On 9/06/2018 11:57:02, RobSR said:
If it’s still got the automatic gearbox id imagine that is the issue like has been suggested.
I wasn’t aware of the ME having an auto gearbox control but I’m sure they can confirm.
Yeah still have the automatic gearbox.
I don't think ME was aware they needed a automatic gear box control. And I'm sure they would tell me if their ECU had the function, since I am in contact about the issue I'm having.
Still just waiting for my refund....
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9 hours ago, daniel_g said:
Get a refund. Heard nothing but bad news about these ECUs.
Thought you would be able to get a Link mapped up straight forward where you are.
I have been trying to get a refund - No luck. They say I need to get it tuned.
I did look into keeping it Kiwi made going for a Link, would have cost the same amount for the ECU, but I would have also had to pay for wiring it up and tuning. having something that is "Plug n Play" plugging into the existing wiring harness seemed like an easy and cheaper way of doing it. I'm not chasing massive amounts of power, just a little more boost without hitting the fuel cut.
9 hours ago, 00joeindastarb0 said:I would think it being an Auto is the problem
I think it is too, but ME is denying that is the problem.
9 hours ago, gorganl2000 said:may be something to do with the auto variable TPS and neutral start compared to a manual EP91
i converted my car from auto to manual a long time ago, and since then i've ran stock auto ecu, stock MT ecu and JAM MT ecu...the car registered a code 51 iirc with the MT ecus, but worked
have you contacted ME for advice?...they should be able to assist
It has to do something with it interfacing with the automatic transmission, seems to run fine until you put the selector into drive. then it seems to go into "limp home mode" loses all power and doesn't rev over 2300.
I would like to convert mine to manual, would you say it was worth the hassle?
I have contacted ME and they are saying its a tuning problem. I just want my money back at this point.
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Yeah I have plugged in the old ECU, but I don't really have the money right now to dyno tune the car after paying over $1000NZD for the ECU.
They are far from plug and play. I don't think much R&D went into this ECU or research alone. When I bought the ECU I ticked the box to receive an ECU for a EP91 because I have an EP91. It comes with a 3 plug ECU, if you have a manual ECU it is only 2 plug. Lucky mine is an Auto and is 3 plug. Before I bought the ECU I asked if it works with an auto, and they said it would. I think that's where half my problems are coming from
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HI there,
Has anyone out there got a standard tune for a EP91. One that has been tuned on a dyno would be great. I loaded on the base map from there website before anyone asks, but it has no power and wont go over 2300RPM making it difficult to drive to a dyno. Has anyone else loaded on the base map from their website? did you have similar problem? Thanks in advance
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Hi there,
Looking for a Blitz Access ECU for my Glanza V any help is appreciated
Ignition switch wiring
in Interior & ICE
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Hey guys,
Been looking at taking out the alarm system in my EP91 and noticed that the guy who wired it up did a crap job!
To get power and other things needed for the alarm he stripped the insulation off the wires he needed to use and then wrapped the wire around it and wrapped it up with insulation tape. no solder, no crimps, no nothing.
I was going to install something else into the car, but I cant attach the battery looking like it is with all the exposed wires. Is anyone able to provide me with a wiring diagram, or let me know which wires are which for the ignition.
Thanks in advanced.