Padders

35 minutes ago, Healey said:

Thanks for all your input lads, I’ve just picked up a 5E tonight, going to build it myself

As long as you know what you're doing ;)

Need anything let me know, machining wise, advice etc

CV only make noise on full lock.

Go for the wheel bearings dude.

I take it only makes the noise when you do full lock? Should be a clicking sound.

Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. You can jack it up and spin it and it feels fine, but sometimes they don't make any noise until they have some weight on them.

6 hours ago, LeonL said:

Was it defo wepr as only ever heard good things (looking to purchase new mani and downpipe in January so doing my research)

Yes 10000%

1 hour ago, LeonL said:

 

Have you contacted them about this? 

Nope, I sent it back to the chap I bought it off.

Crap workmanship that's all I'm saying.

PM

Anytime.

I can do the machining, balancing, re-build....anything you want.

1 hour ago, Calum122 said:

 

I feel like you are being pretty harsh Padders, as I said on TGTT, we're not all mechanics and some of us like to learn. He's not harming anyone by having a go and is probably learning a lot. Sorry we're not all professionally trained but there are a lot of gearheads on here who got where they are today by making mistakes and learning from them

 

And we're all friends here, if you got a question, instead of randomly searching Piston Heads, why not throw it up on here and let some of us answer those questions.

 

I hear the only stuff worth using for the Sump is this VW stuff, it's not cheap though.

 

Either way mate, keep persisting. It's all a learning experience and these engines are pretty forgiving. As I say, lots of expertise on here, I would ignore Paddy, he was calling me stupid on TGTT for asking questions...

You can't learn about how to build an engine correctly over a few weeks on a forum. I'm not being harsh, I'm being realistic. He doesn't know what he's doing and it will end up costing him more money. I've offered him help, so I'm not being harsh at all.

For the record my name isn't Paddy, nor do you have to use VW sealant. High temp RTV silicon is what he needs. 

If you don't know what you are talking about then don't second guess or miss inform people, because that's how mistakes happen.

Oh dear, please stop now.

What have you even used for the sump, bathroom sealant?! You use a decent RTV silicone.

Are you going to plastigauge the bearings? I can't imagine you are. 

Why don't you leave the engine building to us professionals? 

You drilled the sump while it was still bolted to the engine.....oh dear 

Anyway, the question is what is your budget?

They are an easy engine to work on, I'd suggest take the engine out and do it properly, as the standard 4efe clutch won't hold the power anyway so you'll have to take the box out.

I build performance and race engines. If you need any advice or help drop me a PM.

That crank will be fine by the way with a fettle.

Matthew

2 hours ago, Sam259 said:

Pretty certain I have 

Are you sure?

Is that gauge compatible with the wide band sensor you have bought? I think that's where your problem lies.

Are you sure you have bought a wide band gauge and not a narrow band?

Are you sure it's a wideband sensor and not a narrow band?

Seems a lot of hassle, you'd have to change the oil feed, return, water lines, downpipe, intake, i/c pipe etc etc

Would just be better buying a manifold with a external wastegate exit already built in.

Not only that but the turbo will sit really low down, did they even think about the oil return into the sump?

Who the hell has mapped that?

What wideband gauge and sensor have you used?

27 minutes ago, richglanzav said:

lol im also have this mental health issue, only this time i saw a therapist and they advised me to store the glanza until the funds return!

Great advice you got

13 hours ago, Gtturbocooney said:

Does anyone have a link or somewhere to buy these from i need one for td04

Check his Facebook. Or ID-Workz sell them.

1 hour ago, William737 said:

Okay cool, so perhaps use a shim from my other engine?

 

Yes just select a shim that is suitable. 

Does it start ok? I find it strange that all of a sudden one valve has no clearance. As I said, worn valve or valve seat.

Hope the piston isn't touching the valve...hence what the noise might be.

9 hours ago, William737 said:

No clearance 

Oh dear, inlet or exhaust? Was it just on one?

1 hour ago, William737 said:

Reckon it would be this causing the noise in the video?

 

Hard to diagnose a fault over a 5 second video.

Is there no clearance at all?

On 11/28/2018 at 11:33 AM, William737 said:

So next thing to take off the Cams? Would it be likely to be a shim replacement? 

You don't need to remove the cams to change the shim.

Pressure down on the edge of the bucket and remove the shim

It gets closer the more the valve and valve seat wears.

Did you check the clearance when the engine was cold?

I bought a second hand CT9 wepr manifold the other week. 

It had cracked and the flange holes were 2.1-2.7mm smaller than the cylinder head, that's my only experience with them.

I think they offer lifetime warranty now anyway, so maybe things have improved.

3 hours ago, H_D said:

Welcome back. Starlet withdrawal is a real mental health issue 

Wondered why I've had a headache for 12 years, seems to have gone now.

OEM bearings are the ideal choice, especially when there are 3-4 different STD sizes to get the correct oil to journal clearance correct.

The only downside is they are a bloody fortune!

It's a shame that ACL, King, Glyco etc only manufacture the middle STD size bearing.