MegstuBMW

On 9/18/2023 at 1:47 PM, nano said:

hi, still available?

Hi, yes

Up

4e speedvision cams, used one season, with gears installed, perfect condition.

Located in Lithuania (can be shipped to my friend in UK and collected in person)

270 IN

280 EX

8.7mm lift

200£

Yes, 16" now is minimum.

Finally brake upgrade.

Bolt on Avensis t25 caliper + Nissan 40206JG00A redrilled discs

On 4/5/2022 at 3:00 PM, Pikey009 said:

Really interesting build, great pics and info mate

Thank you! Doing my best from what I got 🙂

Thank you 🙂

Windage tray you mean in a sump? It is to keep oil in a botom of the sump.

More crank case pressure is always there when you make boost and it goes in to the head through oil return galeries, in different direction than oil that wants to return, so at some point it can push returning oil back to head and keep that oil all up resulting in empty sump. Thing that is a little hard to check.

Sump design that you showed, good idea to increase volume, but I do not see any support for cornering that I think is bigest problem with oem sump.

Also, does 4e engines has oil return from head problem? I noticed that when I drive longer at high rpm, breather spits some good ammount of oil.

Thinking about making additional port straight from head, intake side and down to block or sump..

Tooday made some mods to oil sump and done a simple test, compaired oem sump and new modified by filling with watter and mooving in my hands. Oem sump compaired to new one looks so bad controling liquid level in pickup location, I am thinking, maybe that was my bigest issue. I drove hard few times in a race track.

When I built this engine everything was measured and in spec, crankshaft is still in spec right now after all this.

About oil grade, maybe 10w60 is too thick, but most performance engine builders go with at least one step thicker oil, mostly because oil gets warmer and at the same time thiner in high loads, so I think it is not a bad idea to go one step thicker, of cours oil cooler would be good idea too.. do not have any at the moment.

Hmm, I think my sump is one step, can not find anything that could be called second step :-) .

Oil pump port looks all right, but this pump is old, done 150000 miles before turbo, so maybe it is just tired one.

I definetly done a lot of launch control and flatshift.. celebrated new year with launch control :-D

Thinking now about oil sump baffle mod, oil starvation could be a problem too.. so many thoughts and not sure what to do.

I have oil pressure gauge, as far as I looked in it pressure was stable, but of course, I have not logged it, probbably it would be smart decision to wire pressure reading in to ecu and log it.

Also, now installing new oil pump, old one has some seriuos shaft play.

I got detonation indicator, it starts to show something when engine is close to redline.. not sure how bad that was, but also, that small turbo was working hard and coild cause detonation.

Inlet temp is fine, loged it alot.

Also I have not noticed oil pressure drop in idle, and I have no idea when this started, that is most annoying thing, I drove hard with this engine so many times with no noticable issues.

Installing new turbo and decided just to check my rod bearing condition.

These are ACL bearings, pushed 180kw.

Anyone got similar failures? Crankshaft is measured and it is still in spec (rod 39.995mm), main bearings looks more or less the same. Always used 10w60 oil.

First photo failure point, top rod bearing

Sad place over here.

Got some from Speedvision.

Still looking

New clutch waiting to be installed.

Clutch is from "tuning development"

New twin friction disc design.

Can be new or used in good condition.

Anyone knows difference between EP91 and EP82 shifters? Can they be swapped?

On 12/18/2020 at 5:23 PM, Glanzavep91 said:

Hi mate, can I ask what pistons you used on these rods? Cheers

Hi, I used wossner pistons. Also, car is currently on 1.5bar of boost + flamy launch control and flatshift , no problems.