jon_84

Right fitted the dredded Hks fcd last night which was easy and took about half an hour, went out for a drive and set it to 2, it holds 10psi perfectly, the boost restriction in 1st and 2nd is still on but the juddering even at low rpm/boost has gone and its so smooth all the time now, no overheating issues and as far as i can see everything is ok. So problem solved.

Yes Dear!

Will let you know what happens, still waiting for it to arrive should be today or tomorrow. Its currently back to normal but still insists on cutting in on standard boost. Why would you lower the boost below standard? Thats fairly pointless, whats the point in having a turbo if the car doesn't even run properly on standard boost? Why not just take the turbo off and run n/a just in case the engine breaks. Ok so worst happens something breaks, we take it apart and fix it with stronger internals.

I'm not talking about raising boost past 10-11psi, it's juddering as standard. So i'm trying to stop that.

Right i've put that bulb back whilst i was fitting the boost gauge, and now fitted a blitz bov. The warning light is staying off so far, and at 5psi the car is fine however it tops out at 10psi which is when it starts to judder so i'm guessing fuel cut. The other night when it was very cold the boost went up to 12psi promptly followed by the dredded judder. This is with those two pipes in their origional position and i haven't swapped them over again yet so the max boost is 10-12 at the moment. I've just ordered an hks fcd so hopefully that will solve the problem, it does fit with the standard pressure type fitment or is it the wire afm? http://www.jdmperformance.co.uk/item_detail.php?prodID=1816

It didn't feel like anything major, no knocks or bangs and everything was smooth, just lacked constant acceleration. Going to do spark plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm and change oil just to be sure. There isn't an induction kit on it at the moment but i will be getting one hopefully in the next few days. What i will do is get a boost gauge, have a swap around with the pipes and see what readings we get then let you guys know and hopefully we can go from there. When the pipes were swapped over it did come on strong and it was a very cold evening so perhaps the fuel cut is the issue. If that is the case is it ok to run it or will it run lean and detonate? Also someone said that when you swap the pipes not to drive it hard?

I've recently got my new starlet, its a 96 glanza v on 59000 miles. Completly standard apart from hks exhaust although not for long! Last night i tried swapping the two pipes over to bypass the solenoid which restricts boost in 1st and 2nd gears. The difference at first was impressive with a stronger pull from the word go, however after about 2-3 minutes at around 4000rpm an engine warning light came on and then went off followed by jerkiness under acceleration from the engine. The light went off but then came back on again later, so we did what any proffesional mechanic would do and removed the bulb and tried again, yet more hesitation, we drove it gently 2-4000rpm with less than half throttle but no change still hesitant, swapped them back and it was fine. I was confused as everything on the car is in good condition and its running on vpower so whats going on? Could it be detonation, or timing or something up with dizzy cap, rotor arm or spark plugs. Just wondering if anyone has experienced this as i would really like to run the car without this restrictor in place, any help would really be appreciated.