wee-jo

Will add some tonight

Any luck bud?

Any more pics mate?

Any recent pics?

reduced to 2400

bump

Anyone know this guy??

Txt him twice and pm'd no reply from both

Pm'd mate

Bump

Bump, reduced price to 2600

Bump, take 2800 for it.

I have the same ones, yes they are from an rx7 non turbo.

Any takers at 3000?

Is it me but isn't odd for the small end bearings to go, let alone that be the only thing wrong with it.

Small end bearins sit in the con rod and take the grudgeon pin no? They take the rotations in the pin wrist. If they fail they'll take out the bottom end and destroy the bore. But That's not my point. I just wanted to make sure that's the problem. What I struggle to see is how has that failed but yet main bearings etc still be fine.

By the sounds of things it's going to be a fix it job before you sell it. At the cost of £400 it would be worth fixing it to keep the car. If I were to buy this car I would have to factor in the hassle and cost of hiring a tow truck. To spend that sort of money on a car that needs to be towed home :/ Not good

Hope you get what you want for the car dude.

I'm not sure mate, The garage that built/maintained it told me it was the conrod bearings. They took the sump of and checked it out. I think because I caught it early, the damage is minimal. Like I said, I'm no mechanic so i just go with what they tell me. I can give anyone the garage number to give a better explanation of the bearing issue. Also, I cant afford to fix it otherwise I would have, but I needed to get a car quickly for work.

Bump, price is now 3200ono as tax has expired.

Its not going to get broken. I want to sell as a whole because you get left with the bits that no one wants.

I know its worth more in bits, but I wouldn't know where to start in terms of how to go about breaking it. Someone make me an offer, its wasted sitting parked up.

Not looking to break it, would rather sell as a whole. Anyone interested make me a sensible offer.

Bump

Bump, price reduced to £3500ono

Had a few messages about the small bearings. I should have said these are the conrod bearings, not the main bearings. So the car just needs small bearings replaced.

Bump

Forgot to mention, I have a video of the engine idling in case people are put off by the fact the small bearings have started to go. From cold, the bearings make no noise either, only when the car reaches running temps

Year: 1995

Model: Toyota Starlet GT Turbo MK3

Tax: 30^th June 2014

MOT: 5^th April 2015

Mileage: 68k (2500 on engine)

Description:

Well, the time has come to sell my starlet. The intention was to sell it after the summer, but the small bearings went at the beginning of May and it has been parked up since & a new car purchased means it’s up for sale now. Since I have owned the car, a full forged rebuild has been completed, as well as td04 conversion and re-mapped emu.

The car its self was garaged for 5 years whilst being rebuilt most of the parts were fitted at the same time. Since I have owned it (2009), the car has only roughly covered 2500 miles over 5 years, with 1000 of those miles as a result of running the engine in.

Spec as follows;

Exterior;

15” Rota grid alloys in bronze with blue wheel nuts

Laguna front splitter

HID headlight kit

Interior;

AEM a/f ratio gauge in black

HKS EVC 5 boost controller

Greddy emu plug and play harness with 3 bar map sensor mapped to 1 & 1.3 bar (launch control deactivated)

Momo 300mm steering wheel with boss

Sony Bluetooth head unit with remote

Rare door pods with vibe component speakers

Vibe 6x9’s on rear parcel shelf

Toad a6106 alarm

Engine;

Head and block both skimmed, honed and pressure tested

Crank polished and reground

Forged rebuild bored out to 1400cc with oversized Wossner pistons and PEC rods

ACL main & big end bearings

1.4mm MLS headgasket

All new BGA gasket kit and main seals (Inlet mani and rocker gasket replaced in April 2014)

ADL oil and water pump

ADL thermostat

ADL timing belt and tensioner kit

New auxiliary belts

New distributor, rotor arm

NGK plugs and leads

Powerflex engine and gearbox mounts

Tial external wastegate with .6 bar spring (have .9 spring also)

Customised TD06 manifold with downpipe and screamer pipe

ARP headbolts

Low mileage TD04L Turbo

Aftermarket Civic Radiator

Black Mitsubishi Evo intercooler with short routed piping

HKS hi-power exhaust system with bung removed

Denso 460cc injectors (completely rebuilt with new end caps and flow tested as of April 2014)

Exedy Clutch

Greddy type S bov

Earthing kit

Green Roose motorsport hoses

FSE fuel pressure regulator

FSE fuel pump

Oil catch can

K&N breather Filter

Custom air filter

Lightweight battery relocated to boot.

New king lead fitted in May 2014 as NGK was arching

Brakes and suspension;

EBC drilled and grooved brakes with yellow stuff pads and braided brake lines

BC racing coilovers with fully adjustable top mounts and changeable damper settings.

Yokohama parade spec 2 tyres all round

Whiteline panhard rod

Rear Cusco strut brace

Standard front strut brace

Geometry and alignment setup for fast road at time of previous mot (April 2014)

The car handles incredibly. I reduced the hardness of the suspension because it was too brutal, but the cornering ability is unreal. Boost comes in at 4000rpm and pulls hard all the way to redline. Because the car was road mapped, it is hard to say what bhp figure the car is producing but I estimate at least 240bhp. The car would benefit from a diff of some kind and possibly and oil cooer and I would say that it would be pretty much sorted performance wise after that.

Every car has its bad points so here are the current issues;

Small bearings need replaced. I was quoted 2-3 hours labour costs plus the price of the bearings, so it is feasible to repair the engine for £300-£400 with all other parts mechanically sound.

Body work has a few scuffs and stone chips. The bonnet has a number of stone chips and the rear spoiler could do with a respray.

The driver door was replaced by the garage which has carried out all the work on the car due to a car that was parked in their yard rolling into and denting the door. The gt turbo on the driver side door is black, whilst the gt turbo on the passenger side is grey as a result of the door change.

The passenger side cv joint needs replaced, but I have a new driveshaft with cv joint that will come with the car.

I am sure I’ve forgotten some spec as the amount of receipts and bills I have are quite comprehensive. The labour costs alone just to rebuild the engine and fit all the above parts totals over £4k so no expense has been spared maintaining the car, but l I can’t justify spending any more money on it. I have the original starlet owner’s manuals which are in good condition and rare.

I have a number of parts that I didn’t get round to fitting to the car that will come with the sale of the car, including front anti-roll bar, cusco bmcs, spare head, rare mk1 rear boot with light up gt panel and oil pressure & temp gauges to name but a few.

I have a new car that is more economical, as well as the bearing issue, hence the sale. If anyone is in doubt as to the quality or legitimacy of work carried out, I can provide the number for my mechanic who knows this car inside out and has carried out the running in procedure.

Price: £2600

Pictures:

Contact Details: pm or text on 07584042708

Looking for a non lsd passenger driveshaft, does anyone have one going spare?

Cheers guys, turns out it was a pipe that had blown off after all.

Was driving along yesterday and boost started to build then i heard a pop noise. Got out and checked the pipes etc and they were all still connected. All vac hoses still connected etc and still no boost. Any ideas guys?