dac69er

ive got a side exit on mines, dac69er over on tgtt has a full system right to the back on his ep85, looks really neat, check his thread out

i have a 2.5" system. it has one silencer at the rear. all made of dairy grade stainless steel other than the flexi and the rear box. sounds nice and only knocks if you hit a massive bump in the road. ground clearance is fine too. took me an age to fabricate though!

cost me less than £100 in parts to make as i got all the steel from work ;)

my coilovers are as low as they go without modding anything. they are the 4wd specific miesters with one of the locking rings removed to get them as low as possible

i dont have a latest pic, will try and get one tomorrow or something when its light. its not that low tbh, but low enough for me! at a guess probably have about half inch of gap between the tire and the top of the arch on 195/55/15 tires.

i also found it was the same on my ep82. lowering it didnt put the back out of alignment by much at all ????

my ep85 viscous coupling was knackered when i got it. it went the opposite way to the way weejohn explained. some of the fluid leaked out so it needed more force to turn it. resulting in the split to the rear being even lower than as standard.

with the coupling replaced it made a noticeable difference to the power sent to the rear wheels

with all due respects i think ill mod the rsr bar and fit it to realighn the rear. may not bother you but when my 300+ lump is in there id rather not have the arse twitching on the car, they are made for a reason lol

im going to fit a modded bar when i get round to it, but just saying that even though mine is lowered to the max on coilovers on the back it hasnt moved it over any noticeable amount. due to this its not the top of my list

mine is lowered on coilovers and it hasnt put the rear alignment out anything worth talking about. nothing i can see anyway. and i put a short shifter in and it fitted fine. there arent really all that many differences between the fwd and 4wd versions

any room for my raggedy ep85? would like to stick her on the stand on sunday!

will set you back a cool £400 and you can only get the ep95 one which is a bit different

first thing to try as it is cheap is to replace the oil sender. the old one may be playing up. if it still does it then it would be worth checking the oil pressure relief valve next to make sure it isnt jammed open or something silly.

failing that your oil pump could be on its last legs or your bottom end is very worn.

if it is anymore than the sender then i would replace the bottom end bearings while the sump is off if there isnt already damage to the crank.

if you are going that far, then just seam weld it and weld in the cage. a c pillar brace will make next to no different then. it doesnt make any noticeable difference anyway tbh

what sort of rebuild you doing? standard rebuild or forged? full rebuild or basically refreshing the engine?

i would first start off with a genuine full gasket set. depending on your spec an uprated head gasket, if not the genuine gasket set has a headgasket.

then a full set of acl bearings.

other than that the rest of the parts like piston rods etc is entirely up to what you want out of the engine.

without seeing it, sounds like you have a problem with the lacquer on the door. probably had a spray job in the past.

only way to really cure this if it is the problem is to get i rubbed back and blown over again.

that interior is pootastic

glad you rolling with a turbo look with a white one. dont want another out there looking like mine!

yus it is. just sold a shell exactly the same colour

i have done the same. socket set extension. as i have 4 starlets i thought i would invest in the proper tool dont cost much

i used a crane, but only to lift the car up in the end. was also handy to hold the engine up while i was assembling the clutch parts and sticking the gearbox on it.

just just used an engine brace to hold the engine up to get the mountings on.

do they just look different in size because they are progressively wound? have you had both springs next to each other to compare?

Well i had it doing 110 one night but that was down a slight hill and it wouldent go any faster lol its much faster now, I've got a glanza engine in it Where are you from? im considering selling those wheels.

suffolk mate. i assume those wheels are 14"

tempted by them for my 4wd as they are sleeper style!!!

my girlfriends n/a ep91 isnt that slow. i want those wheels

i might start work at 9 instead of 8 on monday, then im not losing an hour of my weekend!

so will you go in at 7 instead of 8 when the clocks go back?

its great when the clocks go forward, you get an extra hour of light to tinker with the starlet

that is one nippy little car.

the jam fcd works quite well tbh. as the starlets tend to run quite lean up the top end anyway, clamping it to allow you to run 1 bar can be safe. you need to get it checked to be 100% though.

the hks fcd just offsets voltage by a set amount depending on the position of the potentiometer on the front. im unsure whether it just does this when the boost is positive or throughout the whole range.

either fcd will do the job equally well as long as it is checked to be sure.

Hi ive just removed a jam fuelcut defender from my car and put standard fuel pressure regulator back on and now the car runs super rich and the leans of when accelerating.

i removed the fuel cut defender because i had the same problem and was hoping this would sort it out.

any help would be great.

Thanks

have you attached the vacuum pipe to the fpr?

Hi,

It's perfectly normal to smoke a little from that area, if you used wd-40 or even dirty hand Mark will leave oily/greasy stuff on the manifold etc,

Gary

just check to make sure there arent any leaks. if not then just let it smoke, will burn everything off eventually

holy crap that boot is bad. my girlfriends ep91 rad was worse than that before i changed it. damn uk salty roads

assuming the cap and coil havnt been changed then it will be boot type.