klyfax

Sounds very nice.
Its crazy that you have grip in 3 gear. Great setup you got there.

Lift the front of the car a little bit. Some half rad mounting kits, lower the rad so much that the car need to be lifted a little when bleeding the system. Having the same problem.

Turning the heater to hot or cold is the same. There is no valve on the heater, there is only plate that directs the air though the heater or around it.

All Toyota ECU from '80, '90 and early '00 have pinouts on the board.

4E flywheel do not fitt a 5E engine.
Why go with a auto?
Why not a normal MT gearbox?

Damn, now I stand corrected

Stock 4e-fte ECU revs to 7200 rpm.

If you dont have the oil pump and sensor, dont go down this road. Take a normal 36-1 trigger wheel and mount on the belt pulley and then mount a sensor to read it. It is faster, cheaper and more easy to do.
I only tried this because i wanted a 100% standard toyota system. After I mounted it, I found out that many ECU can't work with this set up.

There are some guys here at UKSO that already have done a normal 36-1 wheel conversion.

Its the same pulley on all the pics. First is how Toyota made it. 2 is where the large tooth between 34 and 1 is grinded away, so it becomes a normal 36-2.

EDITED ALL POST FROM 32-2 TO 36-2

First try to get the ECU to understand the wheel. It did understand it, but MS is not happy with 36-2 wheels in general.

Second try, now MS is very happy with the wheel.



EDIT: Its a 36-2 wheel, not 32-2

It won't take any HP changing that when running a CT9

Hehe that's my engine :-)
Some ECU can run with it as it is. Some needs the wheel to be a normal 36-2 wheel. Others can't run on a 36-2 wheel. I use MS ecu and it is not very happy with 36-2 at all. Omex claims that they works with Toyota 36-2 wheel.
I grinded my wheel to 18-1. That works with my ecu

EDIT: Changed all 32-2 to 36-2

Good to hear!

My old car lost the ceramic on a plug to, that only killed the turbo. So it happens from time to time.

Damn Socks, why are you so quiet?? I, and properly others to, want an update. Is it running? Or is there some problems with it?

Hey Per.

7.5" with 195 is no problem at all. A mate had 7.5" with 205/215 tires, they rubbed, but was under the arches.

Well, I changed all bearings in the bottom. The sound is still there, so I put the car away for 2 month. Last week I transported the car to my work. So this week went to testing and driving the car, got 160 km, and the sound have not changed. Its the pistons that is making the noise. Now there is a problem with the heat. Think it is the waterpump, or the cooling system that is full of crap. Cleaned once, 20 km after, the water had the same dirty colour again.

But it is semi mapped for 0.5 bar, and fells like a great little engine already.

Powerflex is not bad at all. Got them on my car. At 900 rpm idle the engine is trying to jump out of the car. Raised to 1000 rpm, now its nice and without any vibration.

Great, looking forward for it. Love the look of the car, rims, fenders and yellow fogs... Damn...

Damn you

Looks great!

Haha, what a price. They can keep it. I will just drill some holes in the bumper. Its a race car, not a painting

But thx anyway

Sounds like the price is pretty high if they buy all kinds of Toyota parts... If it is not to much trouble, a price would be nice.

Where did you get a remix front bumper from? Tried to order one from Toyota, but it is not in production any longer...

Got my bearings last friday. And today I had an idea that I would work on the engine and put the new bearings in. But I got 5 wrong crankshaft bearings. Its the right number on the box, but wrong bearings inside.
So now I have no idea when my engine will work again. This sucks!

Top bearing half is the wrong bearing that came with 11701-11012-03, bearing mark 3. Bottom half is the right bearing, but in Mark 4, 11701-11012-04.

When are you going to get this mapped and put on the rolling road?? Can't wait to see the figures!

Start of the clutch disc.

Thx Scutch.

Rmsnoel. An 5E-FHE ACIS engine have 2 set of intake pipes. The long pipes does not have valves. The short one does.
The vacuum container and solenoid is there to keep vacuum in the actuator so the valves are closed. Without that the valves would open when you hit the throttle. With it you can control when to open the valves. When closed the air has to go the long way around, that will give increase torque and better spool up. And it is very noticeable on the low and mid end torque.
It is controlled by the 5E-FHE ECU. So the design is Toyotas. Only thing I've done is changing the ECU.

Hope you understand, I'm not that good at technical English. Or English More pics of manifold: