Chris250

very as it's fully controllable, you can run huge duty cycles in the off boost areas too allow fast response and adjust this back down again to avoid over boost then ramp it back up again as the turbo starts to run out of efficiency and drop off further up the rev range. I'll hopefully have mine back on the dyno this coming week and I'll post up the results using an HKS Actuator, on the stock actuator I managed to hold onto boost slightly longer but since it started opening at 2 psi it's not the best

Just for future reference, the ME221 can control the boost in 3d replacing the OE solenoid with a 3-port. you can also have high/lo boost using the boost switch

They're releasing an ecu for the 3s-gte and have a wire in option too

Not sure if anyone on here has seen this yet but there's soon going to be a fully tuneable plug and play ECU option for the EP82 and 91

https://www.facebook.com/motorsportelectronics/videos/1514207845261103/

if it's the normal universal loom then it is completely interchangable between any car, if it's a field harness then it's ECU specific

that is major over kill even with a dyno, it's normally £50ph so they are talking 5 hours for a piggy back?

Hi Shaun

personally I'd go standalone, the piggybacks are good but there's no comparison to the control you get with a standalone (I'm a mapper) we use Link ECU's but also tune powerFC's and everything else.

Since it's a Nikon you've got at your disposal your best googling to check what the D50 is, pretty sure it's digital but don't know how many megapixel's it is or that. But since it's an SLR you can't go far wrong ;)

I'm the person Rubix is on about, personally I'm a Canon man but the person who a shoot weddings with is a Nikon man.

It comes down to personal preference at the end of the day what you go for for brand.

As for the camera's, it really depends on what it's going to be used for. If it's just to be mucking around and learning the basic's then a bridge camera will do just fine, if your wanting to capture thing a long distance away then you'll need to go for an SLR digital or film, so that you can buy a long lens, to bring objects closer.

You can pick up second hand D-SLR's for a couple of hundred pounds now, there's not much that breaks on them unless they have been dropped or heavily used, the most important thing with an SLR of any kind is the lenses, spend as much as you can afford on glass as this can be used again and again when you upgrade your body.

As it's been said the better the lens(glass) the higher quality your pictures will be, so you need to decide what you want to shoot at this point in shopping, it doesn't matter how many MP the camera has, cropping is no substitute for a good long lens if your wanting to shoot things far away. Nor is it a replacement for a macro lens if you want to shoot close-up's.

I gave Rubix the standard lens when he borrowed my camera and at q drift event the long end, 55mm, was too short, so all his action shots had to be cropped to look good but the suffered in actual image quality, the detail shots in the padock, however, had a higher quality as they didn't need cropped.

depends on if your planning on mappnig it yourself or not, if you are keep an eye on e-bay or Greenline.jp and import one yourself

Guess that's what happens when you give it shoe for over a year without a full map in the e-manage. Bad news bud, hope it is fixible as it was a pretty rapid car

Just a wee heads up about the place i'm working, GI Motorsport in Kilmarnock. We can offer everything from an oil chance to a full engine rebuild including mapping. we're currently building our range of management systems Vi-PEC and Autronic available buy the end of the month but as it stands we can map E-Manage, Power FC, and DTA. Not to mention boost controllers and every other gadget you can get for your car.

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