neilsmith

That's value for money Luke lol I've ordered a set

Neil

That would be the best idea, bring on the dreaded crank pulley

Ok so I'm needing to replace my oil pump, I see that there's 2 options, seal on pump and seal on block, what's the difference?

I've not removed my pump yet but can any one of the 2 do the job or do I need to replace like for like?

Neil

Sounds like the throttle position sensor might need calibrated

Or the timing could be out mate

Neil

I'm not trying to insult your intelligence but have you checked all vacume hoses, also a boost leak from intercooler pipes?

Actuators not sticking open slightly?

Do you have a dump valve Colin? Maybe sticking open not allowing boost to fully build up?

Does these numbers make any sense to anyone as to what bearings I would order up?

Neil

It is a standard engine, and there is a number 2 on the shell

Also stamped on the shell is OE1C

Neil

Ok I will measure it tomorrow, does anyone know the standard crank size?

Also what's best bearing to use, would I be best buying genuine Toyota or go with ACL?

Neil

Luke you right I think I may be very lucky lol

The oil pump hasn't done any more than 2k miles but there has definitely been a loss of oil pressure somewhere along the line as the oil light was flickering a bit on tick over so I will change that anyway but do you think there could be anything else that would cause a loss of oil pressure?

Neil

As title how do I measure my bottom end bearings (shells) to find out if they are standard size or oversized?

Found this today after discovering a small rattle

Think I've cought it in time as there is no damage to the Conrod or crankshaft

I need to find out what size bearings to order up

Any help appreciated

Neil

Removed sump and found this on piston 4

UPDATE;

Measured all valve clearances and results are

Intake;

0.21

0.22

0.22

0.31

0.21

0.23

0.18

0.20

Exhaust

0.35

0.39

0.40

0.37

0.38

0.37

0.36

0.36

It appears that all exhaust shims are out of the 0.3 +-0.03 tolerance

And one of the intake shims are out of the 0.2 +-0.03 tolerance

I'm still not convinced that this is causing the noise

Neil

Just to add there is a crack in the exhaust manifold which is blowing only very slightly but I don't think that has anything to do with the rattling sound

Neil

My engine has developed a rattling sound that only occurs when at full running temperature and at around 2k rpm with no load on the engine, I don't think it's the bottom end but hopefully one of you guys can help

Just to clarify I haven't driven the car any more than a mile like this I heard it on my way home on Sunday night

Any help appreciated guys!

https://youtu.be/u90ld5N6Wm4

Anyone else on here got any ideas or past experiences?

Neil

Manifold does have a hairline crack in it yes but it doesn't seem to blow very bad at all

Neil

Ok il need to find this out.

This is s link to a video of the engine

>http://youtu.be/DUTcZfk6Kmk

Ok I hear what your saying Luke, as for the different sized it it std size then +.25 then +.50 oversize?

Shims I mean bucket shims in the head, just another option to rule out

I've got a video of the engine running now I just need to figure out how to upload it lol

Neil

Personally I agree with stu the most, if your using the car on the road then in my opinion the quaife is the obvious choice but if your on the track a lot then a clutch type diff might be the better option

Neil

Luke am I correct in saying that the best way to check for the shells is to remove the sump and shake the rods about to check for play?

Also just to throw it out there could it possibly be the shims rattling around? All shims were replaced around 2k miles ago

Neil

Ok Colin I will check this tomorrow evening, thanks for the input

Il also get a video tomorrow and put it up

Neil

After finally getting my car back on the road tonight I've discovered a small knocking sound when the engine is at about 2500rpm with no load on it, and only when at full operating temperature.

I also noticed my oil light flickering when I was idling but my oil level is bang on, any suggestions?

If it is the small end bearings, could this be sorted from the bottom by removing the crankshaft but without removing the head?

Neil

Quaife it by far the best it doesn't make any knocking or banging noises under normal driving or when doing manoeuvres

The quaife also doesn't need any maintenance and always puts the drive to the wheel with most grip

How can any other diff possibly compare?

Quaife is the best!