Jump to content

David12

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    61

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by David12

    Full paint job

    in Exterior Design

    Posted

    1. HAVE PATIENCE â?? you need to have patience especially for jobs such as sanding fillers back to shape etc. If you do not have patience forget about it. Painting is the easy part of the bodywork, if itâ??s not shaped correctly or sanding marks are showing then it will look like shite and you have just wasted your time, effort and money.

    2. You can improvise on some tools â?? If you are doing this job only once or twice, why spend a fortune on the tools when you could just use that money for a professional to do the job. Some tools for e.g. sanding donâ??t buy a sanding block; just use a block of timber. Using a solid backing behind sandpaper when sanding back fillers/fibreglass or blocking down the panels saves A LOT of time.

    3. Use the right tools for the job â?? although you can improvise on some tools, use common sense also. Donâ??t try to wedge a sanding block into a narrow space or curve etc. You get the idea.

    4. Donâ??t try to fill large dents in 1 go â?? Trying this is just lunacy, try beat out the dent first, you donâ??t need panel hammers and dollies to do this, a block of timber and a light-ish hammer will do but take your time. Most of the time you will fill the dent and when you sand it down you will find there is a low spot. This has to be filled again when you are finished sanding, but make sure to blow off the area with an air line first to make sure you get rid of all dust from it, IT WILL SHOW UP LATER.

    5. Make sure there is no open polish or cloths with polish on them in the shed you are painting in, it WILL cause reactions.

    PREPERATION

    Tools;

    1. Sanding block â?? can be a block of timber or a proper bought one (your choice as long as size suits)

    2. Sand paper â?? various grades such as 60, 120, 220, 320, 500

    NOTE: for the 500 grade sandpaper, I suggest buying 500 sponge back. It can be bought from your auto factors or paint shop.

    3. Fillers â?? Try getting â??Upol Easy Sandâ? it will pay off when you are sanding it back.

    4. Flicks â?? Get a packet, for the sake of â?¬4-â?¬5 or so.

    Ok first you need something to set your panel/bumper/sideskirt etc up on. I have used and still do from time to time a fold out clothes airer, it a little wobbly but you get used to it, just donâ??t go nuts on it.

    Sit your part on whatever you chose as a stand and rub it back with the 220 sandpaper to give the paint/fillers a key to stick to. When this is done use whatever hand you donâ??t write with and look away from the part, you will feel any slight marks on the panel. Any dents rub some more with the sandpaper to give it a good key for the fillers.

    Mix up your fillers, I suggest mixing this on some plastic as it will help minimise any air bubbles etc. Using the flick spread the fillers over the dented area, starting before it and finishing past the end of it.

    Let the fillers set and then start with the grade 60 sandpaper start to rub back the fillers to shape using a sanding block, make sure to leave enough on for the next grade of sandpaper as you want to sand out any sanding marks.

    Fill again, let set and rub back the fillers this time starting with the grade 220 and move onto 320 wet and dry, using wet.

    Once done let it dry off and rub it down using the sponge back grade 500 sandpaper.

    PREPERATION FOR PRIMING.

    Tools;

    1. Panel wipe

    2. Paper Towel

    3. 500 grade sponge back sand paper or 600 wet and dry (use wet)

    Wash down the part using panel wipe (can be bought from any auto factors or paint shop.) Do this by applying to one clean piece of paper towel and immediately dry off using a dry clean piece of paper towel.

    Mix the primer with hardener (as per manufacturerâ??s specification) and add approx 20 â?? 30 % thinners. Set the pressure for the spray gun to approx 60 â?? 70 psi.

    PRIMING

    Tools;

    1. Spray Gun

    2. Primer (Primer Hardener & Thinners)

    Pour the mixed primer into the spray gun. Check on an old piece of card the spray from the gun is in an oval shape. (Just give it a dart of paint.)

    The gun should be kept aimed directly at the part to be painted at all times. When starting to spray, make sure the gun is past the end of the piece to ensure it does not spit any paint blobs onto the piece.

    The first coat will be a misting of paint, ensure to do all edges and corners first. Wait approx 2 mins, primer doesnâ??t take long to set. Next coat will be when the primer is half set and will be a half a coat starting with corners and edges again.

    Wait a few minutes again and apply the last coat, this should cover the whole piece and once again start with the edges and corners.

    Leave to set completely (few hours)

    PREPERATION FOR BASE COAT

    Tools;

    1. 500 Grade Sponge back sandpaper or 600 wet and dry (use wet)

    2. Panel wipe

    3. Paper Towel

    No matter whether you are using water based or solvent based paint preparation is the same.

    Using the 500 sponge back sandpaper rub down the whole panel until completely smooth. Again use whichever hand you do not write with to check while looking away from the piece.

    Again rub down with panel wipe, I suggest even if you are using water based paint to use solvent based panel wipe, just let it dry off a little longer after you use the paper towel to dry it off.

    BASE COAT PAINTING

    Tools;

    1. Spray Gun

    2. Paint (Mixed to manufacturerâ??s specification)

    Clean out your gun, I suggest using a different gun than the priming gun for base coat no matter if its water based or solvent based. Using a filter, filter the mixed paint (mixed to manufacturerâ??s specification) in to the cup of the spray gun. Apply paint as before corners and edges first (DO NOT TRY TO APPLY IN ONE COAT), first coat a mist, second coat a half coat, third and final coat should cover the complete part. If you are using water based paint a heater is not required to set the paint, you just need to move the air around the part.

    LAQUERING

    Tools;

    1. Spray gun

    2. Lacquer (mixed to manufacturers specification)

    Clean out your priming gun thoroughly before use and ensure the filter is fitted to the spray gun (fits into the bottom of the paint cup). Mix your lacquer as per manufacturerâ??s specification, fill the cup on the spray gun. Paint as before, misting coat, half coat, complete coat, allowing time in between to dry a little (approx 5 mins if in a warm area, allow a few minutes more for a colder area) and again start with edges and corners. Leave to set over night.

    FINISHING

    Tools;

    1. 2000 grade wet and dry sandpaper (use wet)

    2. Something to spray on water (can be a clean coke bottle with a small hole in the cap)

    3. Buffer / Rags

    4. Cutting compound

    5. T-CUT

    6. Polish

    7. Elbow grease and lots of it

    You may notice like an orange peel effect on the paint, this will be removed now. Using 2000 wet and dry and paper, using it wet rub down the whole piece, you will now see parts of it turn like a faded colour, keep going till the whole part is like this but be careful not to sand through the lacquer.

    Using a fine cutting compound on a buffer (if you have one) with a buffing head, a rag will do but is more work. Wet the whole panel with water and buff it up, careful not to go too heavy on it and burn or move the paint.

    Next is to T-CUT the part, we all know how to do this, rub it on, let it haze and buff off with a clean rag. Then polish it up and youâ??re finished.

    Anything else give me a shout

    This was so helpful. Thank you. =)

    Out of interest, where are you going to be spraying it?

    Friends barn =p haha

    Full paint job

    in Exterior Design

    Posted

    Hi there, as title says, i'm going to give it a shot at painting the whole car.

    Just looking for some advice from people that have done it before, for example items used, prep time and how many coats etc.

    Also, could i get some suggestions for colours as i have no idea =( haha

    Doing this as a few bits of rust is coming through and the exterior is just what lets it down. I have a Starlet for spares that i am going to use parts off like the rear bumper and bonnet.

    Cheers for the help. Look forward to seeing some nice paint jobs =)

    Painting Speedline Safari's

    in Alignment & Alloys

    Posted

    Hey. Got a set of black speedlines that i want to paint back to the original colour. Very sick of black. Haha.

    Just wondering what i should use and steps that i should take? Also, if anyone knows the correct colour for the original wheel?

    Never painted wheels before and would just like a few pointers as i see a lot of you have done a damn good job of painting yours.

    Cheers

    Bought another Starlet

    in Electronics

    Posted

    Right ok thanks for that ste. Will have it home sometime next week. Get it stripped of everything i need then try and come 1st at the autotesting :) haha. 1st place at the moment seems to be a 1.5 diesel citreon ax so......

    Bought another Starlet

    in Electronics

    Posted

    Hi there. Just bought another Starlet for £80. Engine is sound but the alternator belt has snapped so need to get one of them. I've bought it for spares for my other starlet to get everything working. Then i will be autotesting it, just a small local time trial thing.

    The advice i need is how hard would it be to swap over the wiring harnesses? For example my cd player doesn't work and clock because the wiring is too badly damaged. Also, any pointers with this task.

    Help would be appreciated.

    Cheers

    Need another front caliper...possibly

    in Braking

    Posted

    Ok thanks for all the advice guys. Yeah wasn't planning on driving it with one bolt, would be a disaster. Going to have another go at it on Monday.

    The bolts were 12mm but rounded off so had to file it down to 11mm.

    Will need a genuine bolt from Toyota though i'd think.

    Need another front caliper...possibly

    in Braking

    Posted

    Hi there.

    Was trying to replace the front pads the day. Got the drivers side changed, eventually. But the passenger side is still left.

    When i was trying to un-bolt the caliper, the bolt has snapped. If i un-do the other bolt (when i can, cause it's rusted on) will the caliper just slide off?

    Cheers

×
×
  • Create New...