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funny onion

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Posts posted by funny onion

    4EFE will start but won’t hold an idle? HELP!

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted

    Hello 

    I’ve recently removed a 4EFE engine, ECu, engine and dash loom out of one of my starlets and fitted it to another. When I start the car it starts perfectly first turn of the key but as the revs drop back down to what should be idle after the initial start, it cuts out as if I’m turning the key off. It doesn’t struggle, misfire or run lumpy or anything like that, it just cuts out as if I’ve turned the key off. There are no ECU codes and it sounds and runs spot on until it just turns off, usually about 5 seconds after it fires.

    all fluids and sensors are present, the only thing I’ve not currently got fitted is the charcoal canister but I don’t think this would cause the issue? (Breather from tank left open to atmosphere)

    I’ve spent HOURS trying to figure it out and it’s driving me insane now. 
     

    things I’ve checked so far;

    - Every fuse and relay on the car. Every. Single. One. no change
    - I’ve systematically unplugged all relevant sensors (TPS, ICV, air temp sensor, coolant temp, MAP sensor etc.) and it behaves appropriately for the sensor that’s been unplugged I.e. it won’t start if the coolant temp sensor is unplugged, it fires at higher revs if the ICV/TPS is unplugged. The corresponding ECU faults come on as they should. But it still cuts out the same

    - I’ve tried different fuel pumps and checked all injectors for leaks etc. 
    - I’ve tried a different ECU and battery

    - I’ve tried wiring up the fuel pump to a remote 12V constant supply to check the power wasn’t dipping too low on start

     

    Any thoughts or suggestions welcome as I’m losing my mind over this now!

     

    Thanks! 

     

     

    Introduction

    in RCH Engineering

    Posted

    Welcome Mr H!

     

    I have a BC front coilover that the threaded bar on the damper (the bit that the top nut screws onto to hold the top mount on) has snapped. I have the piece that snapped off. Would you be able to do anything with it? Obviously they are hollow to allow for the damping adjustment but I don't mind losing that feature if it means you could fix it as it's currently sat on the shelf unusable haha. I'll get some pics if that will make it easier. could bring it to JAE? I tried to get a new damper from BC but they messed me about and were completely awkward about it.

    Thanks!

    Charlotte

    Engine Removal

    in Engines

    Posted

    Assuming you are dropping it with the gearbox on (I would);

    Exhaust manifold with turbo and decat, exhaust mid section, driveshafts, engine loom (unplug from ecu, pull plug through firewall and unplug all sensors etc then lift the loom out), speedo cable, gear cables, power steering pump (I usually just take belt off and move pump to top of the chassis leg out of the way), throttle cable, vac line to map sensor and BMC etc, rad and hoses.

    Can leave the actual FMIC most likely but you will have to remove all pipework. Obviously disconnect the battery and drop all fluids. remember to put the drain plugs back in.

    I've probably forgotten something, but it's not too much of a bad job tbf. I always find worst part is knocking the NS driveshaft out.

    Respray ideas

    in Exterior Design

    Posted

    Only advice I would give you is adding a custom element to any standard colour can make it a bitch to match in the future. Like if in the future you decide to get a different bumper or some different skirts, it may be difficult to get a spot on match. Not saying don't do it, just a heads up.

    6 speed box

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted

    I think the corolla 6 speed box is a C152 box? They are a direct bolt on, don't need to swap the clutch etc. Only think that needs modifying is the shifter in the car. I had to file down the inside of the plastic housing to allow the shifter room to select reverse (next to first on these boxes)

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