WHY AM I BOOSTING AT 1 BAR? HELP NEEDED (,")

[Marc]

I just bought a glanza there on friday and the blitz boost gauge it came with is showing that i am boosting at just a tad over 1 Bar. I thought it may have been a faulty reading so i hooked up my toms gauge and to my surprise it still showed that i was boosting at a bar. Now i cant see any FPR, and there isnt even an HKS actuator on it so i am confused. The engine management light doesnt come on and i am not hitting fuel cut at 0.85bar. However when i am on full boost at like 5000rpm it seems as if its hitting some type of fuel cut, like its hesitating slightly. The mods on it are a 5zigen exhaust, blitz induction kit and as for power wise mods that it. It still has a catalyser.

Now the pipe that comes from the actuator onto the turbo? Well it has 3 tie wraps round it, it looks as if they have been put on to restrict that pipe?

I am worried that i am doing engine damage as i dont think there is any type of fuel management. Any ideas?

Thanks, M

HERE IS A PICTURE OF THE ACTUATOR ETC. NOTICE ON THE BLUE PIPE COMING OFF THE ACTUATOR IT HAS TIE WRAPS AROUND IT WHICH IN TURN IS RESTRICTING THE PIPE. ANY IDEAS?

[ecksjay]

whip the glovebox down and look behind (up and over) it, to look at the ecu, see if it has any marking on it. it may have an aftermarket ecu.

[Marc]

Right lads, i checked the ECU and i am no expert but it seems to have been modified in some way. The ECU has toyota on it but it looks like it has been opened up because there is extra wiring coming from it and it has been taped up and stuff. Any ideas on that? Also why would the pipe on the actuator have the tie wraps round it to restrict it?

[ecksjay]

it may well have a daughterboard in there, or at least someones fucked around with it. they may have fitted an FCD but mounted it internal to the ecu, there's no way to know without whipping it out and opening it up.

If that is the case, then there's no way to know that its actually fuelling correctly to accomodate the rise in boost without getting the car on a dyno and having everything checked, which is personally what i would do. £40 and you'll know exactly whats going on.

either that or you could get a stock ecu for cheap to put your mind at rest.

[scutch0]

firstly tho, i would replace that piping to the actuator, i had the same thing on my glanza and when i replaced it it was fine.

[scutch0]

i would recommend that too. my v seemed like a completely different car when i changed the actuator as mine must have been fucked.