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Posted

Guys a question.

Today i drove my car for the first time since over a week (got an appointment with the DVLA today)

And when I press the gaspedal a bit further then normal in 3rd and 4th with a mild warm engine (after about 5 mins drive) the engine start bumping and the car shakes like when you see lerner-drivers not able to master the clutch, like its stalling.

Could this be the fuelcut? (not sure, not pressing the gaspedal more then half way)

I hope you guys understand, got some words in my mind which I can't translate to English :p

What could this be?

On the drive back from England this never happened.

Hope you guys can help.

Cheers.

Guest Enzo
Posted

sounds like fual cut abit but could not be sure.

do you have a boost gauge? if so what is it boosting to?

Posted
sounds like fual cut abit but could not be sure.

do you have a boost gauge? if so what is it boosting to?

no idea, i was still a bit sleepy :p

the previous owner did install some sort of bleed valve, but it's completly turned in, is it wise to remove it?

I did notice on the way back from England that the boost first shoots to 1.1 and then drops back to around 0.9

Guest Enzo
Posted

i would remove the bleed valve totaly out of the system,

have you checked behind the dash for a fual cut defender box?

Posted

Nope, no idea where to look.

Can I just rip it out and reconnect the 2 hoses?

Iâ??m pretty stressed about it, as I have to pass the MOT this afternoon and I donâ??t want this to cause problems.

Guest Enzo
Posted

you need to look behind the glovebox next to the ecu for a little black box- that might be fual cut box,

yea you can rip it out and just reconect the two hoses so it links into the hi low boost solenoid,

you should be fine aslong as you dont boot it.

do you have an adjustable actuater?

Posted

really stupid question, do you have a photo of the standard enginebay to wire the hoses back to original

boot it?

about the actuater, no idea, probally not.

Posted
its one of 2 things.

either youre hitting fuel cut, as detailed by Geo.

or, you have water in your plugs.

last one I can just check by removing the plugs and looking if the tip is wet?

And if it is, how do i stop this from happening?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

still havn't found the problem, the can idles perfectly, it runs ok, till I press the gas a bit more then i would need to and there it goes again.

I think it doesn't get enough fuel or something...

Need to get someone with a bit more knowledge to look at it.

I was all excited that all my papers finally came in and now this sh*t is acting up

Posted

it should only be boosting to .8 bar, (12psi) id recoment have a look at pictures of ep engine bays, then removing your crude bleed valve and reconecting your hi low boost solenoid

Posted
the problem is it isn't linked to the boost (i think), more to the distance i press the gaspedal, thats whats so weird

it's definately fuel cut mate, it wont make a difference how far the gas peddle is pushed really, fuel cut happens between 0.85 and 0.93 bar.

how far you press the loud pedal determines how much boost you gonna get.

i would suggest to do what enzo said.

process of elimination mate.

if it doesnt solve it, you can put it back

Posted

I installed a FCD, but I have no idea how I know if it's installed right.

But even when I press the accelerator slighty more it starts shaking before it gets to a high enough PSI for the fuelcut

Posted
It starts before you hit 0.9 bar?

If so, it might be the dizzy rotor, leads or plugs that are worn?

agreed.

if the fcd is fitted incorrectly the car will run funny, and the engine check light will come on

Posted

no engine light, so the fcd should be fitted correctly.

it also starts before 0.9bar.

I'll just give it to my neighboor (toyota dealer owner) and he can check it out.

thanks guys

Posted

We found the problem.

It was the wire from the rotorcap (i think it's called that)

engine.jpg

(the red wire exiting the right side of the engine)

It had 2 fractures in it and the previous owner decided instead of getting a new one just to mend it the McGuyver way with some tape.

Now we shortened it and replaced the thingie it connected to from the chassis to the strut-brace, and now I just need to order a new wire.

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