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STICKY.Want 180bhp? heres how you do it


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Right, many people dont know where to start on how to get a good 180bhp setup on their 4efte's, so im going to make a ''cheap'' and ''expensive'' guide

Il start with the List of what you need on a sensible budget, im starting with a BONE STOCK ep91 or ep82 etc to start from

First of all you will need to free up your car, ideally id do it in this order

Exhaust, youl need a decent exhaust system to free up your 4efte, 2.5" ideally and not any smaller as it will just restrict flow, turbo cars dont need backpressure as such, so you could even have a front exit exhaust through your front bumper (would be loud though)

Decat/downpipe, Youl need this also to free your 4efte up, can get them rather cheap now days, make a huge difference to sound and response

Air filter, an air filter like power enterprise or apexi are best and worth the money, they also will unrestrict your car and make it more responsive , at this stage you will be looking at 140-145 bhp if fuel cut has not been displayed(see other thread)

Manifold, this frees up your car alot, the standard manifold is very very restrictive and has 2 restrictions in 2nd/3rd runners, a s/s or mild steel manifold like a SPS one is ideal of choice

Actuator, Hks or toytuning ones are good for adjustable boost, you can still keep your hi/lo boost but i removed mine, you can get Jam,greddy etc ones that arnt adjustable and run 0.7 bar in low boost and 1 bar in high, you will need to get the right actuator for your car though, 1990-1992 (mk1) need an actuator with a hole going through it, and later 4eftes 1992+ need the actuator with a pin, set this to a safe 0.8 bar for the momment

Fuel pressure regulator, you will need this for when you run 1-1.1 bar of boost deffinatly, FSE/Sard/tomei ones are perfect for the job, if your buying new it will come with the adaptor for your fuel rail ,if buying 2nd hand make sure you get the adaptor, Youl also need the gauge for this so you can roughley set this up until setup on rolling road, set it at a safe 2.7 bar of fuel pressure on idle with vacuum line connected

Fuel cut defencer, (read other thread) this is what you will NEED for running more boost, if you havent already encountered fuel cut you will do when you up the boost, which isnt a good thing, by fitting one of these it gets rid of it so you can run a safe 1-1.1 bar of boost

Front mount intercooler, this gets your charge tempretures down, fmic's do not creat much more lag than the stock interwarmer, they gfo at the fornt of your car (youl see these on evos etc as stock) and can make your car look more aggresive but you can still hide them if wanted, you can run 1 bar on stock intercooler, but i cant say you will get the same results from a car with the same spec with fmic, fmic'd car would probably have more pull

With all this setup on a rolling road at 1-1.1 bar and fuel pressure to match you should make a good 175-185bhp i made 182bhp, 155bhp at the wheels and 165 ft lbs at the wheels at 1.1 bar on my old CT9a turbo with a restrictive air filter

That lot cost me around £1000 to get 182bhp from a stock GT

You can also add these modifications if wanted, some people believe that these will help getting 180 bhp

Different management, Like greddy emanage Blue or a Dastek Unichip, these will most of the time need to be fitted by a profesional and will deffinatly needed to be mapped on a rolling road, do not atempt fitting/mapping yourself if not 100%

Fuel pump, Walbro 255 fuel pumps are commonly used on starlets, im using a nissan skyline GTR fuel pump on my car which does the same job of getting more fuel in but is Very loud

If you have any questions on how to fit any of these parts above or any more help, just PM me or add me on Msn

Cosworthcal@msn.com

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