steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Currently I have a Forge actuator on my CT9 setup but will be fitting a TD04 next weekend if all goes well and have a few questions that I would be very grateful for an answer to.Question 1 - Would I be better be better using the standard TD04 actuator or the forge one that's currently on the car?Question 2 - What's the best way to make the bracket to hold it once the turbo has been rotated, just a piece of flat metal with holes drilled in it?Question 3 - Is it possible to just cut the radiator mounts off at the bottom and weld them back in place to suit the civic radiator or will I need to buy/make a bracket & how do I secure the top of it?Question 4 - Will the standard TD04 oil return/drain fit into the same hose as the ct9 did?Question 5 - Do I need a new banjo bolt to bolt into the block or will the old one for the CT9 be fine (The turbo came with a banjo into the turbo so that side of the line is sorted)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 bump Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taggy Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Currently I have a Forge actuator on my CT9 setup but will be fitting a TD04 next weekend if all goes well and have a few questions that I would be very grateful for an answer to.Question 1 - Would I be better be better using the standard TD04 actuator or the forge one that's currently on the car?If you have got a forge actuator you may as well use that, in both cases though your bracket is going to be out of whack for the TD04 once you have rotated it. Your going to have to fabricate a bracket.Question 2 - What's the best way to make the bracket to hold it once the turbo has been rotated, just a piece of flat metal with holes drilled in it?Yes thats what i did, i think the ct9 bracket is a flat rectangle, just measure it and redrill a new hole to mount it, you will also need to drill the pin out as the pin is on the td04 turbo rather than the other way around on the ct9Question 3 - Is it possible to just cut the radiator mounts off at the bottom and weld them back in place to suit the civic radiator or will I need to buy/make a bracket & how do I secure the top of it?You can either reweld them (which i did) or you can buy the radiator mounting kit.Question 4 - Will the standard TD04 oil return/drain fit into the same hose as the ct9 did?yesQuestion 5 - Do I need a new banjo bolt to bolt into the block or will the old one for the CT9 be fine (The turbo came with a banjo into the turbo so that side of the line is sorted)?yes you will need a new banjo bolt and braided line, if you search on the forum you should be able to get the size and get one from ebay for a few quid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Thanks very much mate just the answers I was looking for. Only other question I have is now that I have rotated turbo the outlet points towards the rad and the drain straight down, I was told on tgtt that you can cut up the ct9 hot piping that is removed and it will fit onto the TD04 outlet but in the pictures the outlet is pointing straight down which must mean the drain is facing back in towards the block? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taggy Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 when you rotate it you undo both sides of the turbo, this way you can turn the oil dran so it points downwrds (this is a must) and then rotate your compressor housing to what ever direction is best to connect to your intercooler piping.I bought some extra fittings from viperperformance and reused my ct9 fmic was a bit fildy but it worked a treat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Rotated my td04 the other day don't forget to pull the two locating pins out with a pair of pliers :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Ok how do I undo the other part of the turbo? Just remove the big circlip once the compressor and exhaust are apart and rotate the other bit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Yeah it's a bastard of a clip I'd use some big circlip pliers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Haha hopefully won't be too bad as the 2 housings came apart really easily. Is it easy to rotate once the clip is off? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Yes mate just be very carefull of the blades. the exhaust side may me a bit hard soaked mine in WD40 for 3 days then tapped the exhaust side with a hammer being carefull not to chip the blades then rotate and put back together job done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Ok adding a pic below this post to try and describe haha. Ok so I'm removing the big black circlip under them water feed pipes then using a soft mallet to knock the rusty looking exhaust bit down towards the floor then rotate and knock back up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 2 mins I'll take a pic of my turbo for my but yes take that circlip off pull apart and make it look like mine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Make it look like this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Ok thanks, I take it that it needs to come up towards where I have removed the exhaust housing from to come out? And is it the nut that you can see down the intake that I need to hit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 You don't need to hit anything as you have the exhaust housing off take the circlip out and it will pull out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 OK spot on mate cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Done now man that clip is a nightmare, I used a pair of long nose pliers to shut it then jammed a screwdriver between one side of it and the housing then levered it up over the housing then ran the screwdriver right round it to pull it out, was a nightmare though. Next question is what's the best way to brace the decat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Tell me about it it's a bitch of a clip I'd brace the decat so you can bolt it to the old cat points but I have a zisco set up so it's already braced Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Yeah that was the plan think it would be easiest to bolt onto the car then tack it in place and weld it fully off the car. Just for fun I have another question for you haha. Been told a few ways to get the fmic piping routed but was wondering what way you did it? I was told to cut the existing CT9 hot side up and buy a 90 degree silicone hose and it would fit is this right and if so which size 90 degree do I buy (55mm?)? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Right for the intercooler pipe I'm going to use this pipe below no need for the 90 then To look like this pic below Hope this helps mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Yeah that helps alot so the pipe circled is the one that joins onto the one that bolt's to the turbo with the dump valve bit? Will it need cut at all to fit and will I need any new silicone at all or will the existing stuff do? Should be able to figure it out once I have it all stripped just want to make sure I have everything ready as I can't afford any downtime with the car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) Just needs trimming down shouldn't need any more pipes just use the old ones I'll soon tell you as I'm putting mine on maybe Wednesday yeah it's the circled pipe mate Edited June 25, 2012 by akyakapotter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Ok that sounds good only thing then is I will be cutting the ends off that have the beading on them to hold the pipes on better but should be fine at 1 bar anyway. If you could post up on wed if it fitted ok and any problems you had that would be great. Thanks very much Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 i will use a ball point hammer to open the end out i cut to the clamp stays on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Good idea, think I will steal it haha. Are you going to be running management or just a rrfpr and afr gauge? Also what boost you going to run? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.