Fueling help and advise.

[Nick_p]

Hi guys and gals,

1 - Ok, fitted a uprated walbro fuel pump and FSE RRFPR sat, i heard standard fuel pressure is 2.3bar, so with having a a couple of Bolt on Mods(HKS cat-back exhaust, HKS induction kit) i set the pressure to 2.8 bar.

Is 2.8 safe or should i set it to standard or set it higher?

2 - second thing is i am now hitting fuel cut fairly often. (have got a FCD but not fitted it yet and am no planning to until later on when/if i raise the boost.even then might not fit because i want a ecu to do that)

Is this a result of fitting the new fueling mods? and how could i sort this out?

3 - The next mods im planning on are HKS actuator, manifold and decat and FMIC. am also planning on ecu but only when i can afford it, so wont happen for a while ;)

i take it these mods are the direction i want to be taking?

If anybody could give us a few answears and shove in the right direction that would be great

Cheers

Nick

[paul w]

Standard fuel pressure will be fine for now with those mods.

To stop fuel cut get the HKS actuator on then set it just below fuel cut, easy ;)

You wanna stop hittin fuel cut,it won't be doing the car any good at all.

Save the pennies for the other mods then turn the fuel pressure up.

[Nick_p]

Cheers for the input paul.

am trying to save every penny at the mo, just so i can spent it on the car!

anyone else got any advise?

[Glanza_Ragger]

every engine vary's mate.

2.8-3bar will be fine for near standard modifications.

Allways play it safe and run it slightly higher, before i installed wideband i set my rrfpr at 3bar.

When i wired my fcd and wideband up, it was running near spot on. I think i ended up lowering it ever so slightly though.

Too long ago to remember.

Installing the fuel pump and regulator shouldnt make you start hitting fuel cut.

It may be a change in weather conditions, if its getting slightly colder denser air it could have pushed it just that bit more to hit fuel cut.

If you have the hks actuator id definately fit that and set it just below fuel cut. Its a case of fit it, drive it.. Check the boost levels and lower it or raise it untill youre running just under.

With the mods youre planning, you will 90% be hitting fuel cut due to the fmic, and the manifold and decat expelling the gasses quicker. The turbo will naturally boost slightly higher with out touching it.

Id personally suggest getting a quality air filter, not the hks shiteass sponge type filter... along with an electronic boost controller to measure the peak boost levels youre hitting and to give you the extra control.Most will have some sort of limiter function which will automatically cut the boost down when it reaches the fuel cut level if you set it up that way. That way you wont need to wire a fcd in and can hold on for an ecu .

That way you set the actuator at the lowest boost setting you want, and use the electronic controller to raise it to what ever you want youre high setting to be.Otherwise you will be stuck on the one boost setting which is determined by the actuator. It might be uber wet out one day and you want to run it lower boost for instance ;)

[Nick_p]

Wow, thanks Glanza Ragger for all the info

Just a few more questions i got regarding what you just said, here goes

When you say wideband, do you mean oxygen sensors? or something else, could you also point me in the direction of a good wideband kit?

What kind of induction system would you go for if the HKS one aint all that?

Looking at Getting a HKS actuator very soon, but dont know which type, hole or pin. can you tell from these pics

when i get the actuator, you say set the boost just below fuel cut, is 0.9 bar ok or should it be a bit lower.

if i get a boost controller and set the actuator to a low boost setting how would the controller be able to raise the boost if the actuator is set on a lower boost

Sorry is if these questions are a bit simple and i sound like a newbi, but i really want to get to grips with these engines and turbos. ;)

Thanks again

Nick

[Glanza_Ragger]

No worrys bout the questions, its good to have something to read and help with whilst im off work with bruised ribs lol.

What year and model starlet do you have? That will determine the actuator type when you come to ordering it.

EP82 GT - <92 - hole type

EP82 GT - >92 upwards should be a pin type.

It looks like yours is a pin type, ie, the actuator arm has a pin that pokes through the wastegate hole and then you fit a c-pin over to hold it.

Have a look, yours should have a c-pin on the other side that you cant see in the pictures.

92 and pre 92 models have a hole that a pin goes in to hole it to the wastegate flap.

Wideband is an oxygen sensor that reads how much air/fuel mixture there is in the gas. The sensor goes into the exhaust system after the turbo, it helps you to set up ecu's, fuel controllers etc. It works off of a voltage method, just the same as the stock lambda sensor they come with...But instead of just reading LEAN - NEUTRAL , the wideband sensors read LEAN - NEUTRAL - RICH.

When you see cheaper kits for sale called narrowband, they will only tell you if the gas is leaning or running about neutral (stoich).

There useless, as you want a wideband kit, which will show the full scale. What i did was to ditch the catalyst temperture sensor, at the bottom of the downpipe, cut the bung off that it threads into, drilled the hole larger to accomodate the larger bung, welded the new wideband bung in, and threaded the sensor in.

There was a thread over on tgtt.com recently that showed test results for various different wideband kits, As i expected, the INNOVATE wideband kit came first, closely followed by the AEM wideband kit..

The innovate kit came first because it had datalogging capabilities, but said the aem kit didnt...Which is a lie because i have the aem type, and it can datalog.

Unless you want to fork out a whole ton of cash for the innovate kit, go for the AEM one. Amazing quality gauge, sensor and wiring. And half the price almost of the innovate kits.Have a look at Dave Burwash's traders section over on toyotagtturbo.com for prices and a light description of it.

About the boost setting question, its a bit hard to explain..

You set the actuator low, and use the boost controller to open it.

The actuator will be set to open at a desired boost pressure, but what the electronic controller does is open the actuator early, but hold the pressure back in the solenoid which is electronically controlled. When the pressure has built to what ever you have set it at in the control unit, the valve will open and allow the turbo to boost up.It kind of just overrides the actuator and take the job over of holding boost back.

Kinda hard to explain as i said ;)

You definately want a hks actuator though, as the stock ones have holes in the base that bleed boost out.

Say your on full boost on a stock actuator, at say 0.6bar, and you have constant throttle down, the boost pressure will keep dropping off due to it bleeding out of the holes.

The hks types dont, so it cant bleed boost pressure out.

One of the best modifications to the starlet in my opinion.

And about the air filter question, In results the hks and blitz filters had the lowest scores for filtering dirt and dust particles, and you really dont want that in the turbo.

For maximum airflow and dust filteration id suggest a power enterprise,apexi,k&n etc type of filter. Something a bit more denser meshed.Apexi's are supposed to be amazing, i sold my blitz sus intake because of the stainless mesh and the size of the filter. I couldnt relocate it to behind the front bumper due to the largeness...

You might not want to relocate the filter just yet, but its definately something i wish i had thought about when i first payed out for it.

I would never touch a hks filter, nor a blitz filter ever again.

People will have varied opinions of filters as they would with all parts. Its personal pref !

Hope that helps a bit?

[Nick_p]

Cheers dude for all the info, i will definitly be getting a wideband kit along with the actuator asap!

Thanks again

Nick

[Glanza_Ragger]

No worrys matey.Glad to be 'o service lol