RandomDan Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I've found this guide for changing it:http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?31620-Clutch-Tutorial-How-to-Remove-Gear-Box-and-ClutchDoes that look right to you guys?The one question i have is, Can i just remove the shafts from the gearbox or do i have to split the CV joints?Looks pointlessly messy to me! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 You dont need to undo the pipe going to the slave cylinder that will just mean having to refill it with brake fluid at further cost and needless effort it can be done at a later date if necessary. Undo the main nut on the balljoint rather than the other 3 its easier that way. No you dont needto undo the cv joints. when u split the ball joint you can pull the whole shaft out the gearbox while its still through the hub. (least work neccessary). Its basically just a case of removing whatever holds the gearbox to the car/engine and pulling it out. BUT if you are doing it on the ground with a jack then get someone to help you its not easy rolling about on the floor trying to wiggle a gearbox back on also get someone with a bit of knowledge, Ive done countless amounts of clutches in my time. If you have never done it before and are not 100% competant with tools I wouldnt even attempt it. A 3 hour job will turn into days. After removing and refitting a head taking out a gearbox is the most demanding job you can do on a car like this so dont expect a walk in the park. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RandomDan Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 I will be jacking it unfortunatly but i did my civic the same way and I've done that twice now.I will be doing it with my friend who is also a mechanic and he has all his tools to hand! Aslong as i know there isnt anything starlet specific waiting to catch me out ill be all good! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 No nothing mate other than they are exceptionally awkward to get back on. Make sure you grease up the selector fork where it pivots on the ball as it will squeek if you dont. That tutorial makes no sense as he drains the oil and then leaves the CV's in the gearbox. If you left them in there would be no need to drain the oil. I'm trying to think but apart from that taking it out and putting it together is easy as hell its just getting the box to slide back on thats a nightmare on these for some reason. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I found it simple to do it all but that is because I had the engine out haha. Anyway clutch has now went and I need to do it all again with the engine in so what is the best way with the engine mounts as there were a pain getting back in the car? I was thinking drop rear gearbox mount right out and battery side one out aswell so that the box can drop out and engine can tilt on last mount? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james@cjperformance Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 take the shafts out makes for much easier refitting as they get in the way undo the main 30mmhub nut and remove the whole shaft Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve-gers Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I found it easier to just remove the bottom ball joint nuts and swing the shaft out the way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RandomDan Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 I found it easier to just remove the bottom ball joint nuts and swing the shaft out the way. Sounds exactly the same as the civic to be honest! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I would normally take the shaft out the hub dont get me wrong. There was a reason i didnt do it on the starlet though. might have been a 34mm nut or a deep socket may have been needed which I think is more likel both of which though i didnt have so the shaft just stayed in the hub. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RandomDan Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 Well, that was a cunt of a job i hope never to have to do again!For some reason the inner shafts didnt want to come out of the gearbox?Tried for ages but eventually just split the CV joints.And the box indeed a nitemare to re-align!I've still got a couple more things to refit but the bulk of it is finally done after around 6 hours T_T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Haha I expected as much matey. As for the driveshafts there a little sticky you have to use a big scredriver or pry bar and a hammer and tap them out when your helper pulls the hub out takes a bit of experience to know that tho. Glad you got it done though mate. I said it would be murder to re align its just somthing with these boxes think its because the input shaft is soo thin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RandomDan Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 I think the real trouble we were having was for one the way we were jacking it up it was on the cock a bit.Secondly because we split the CV joints they were catching on the flywheel cover, i hade to bend the cover a touch to clear it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Aye that is the big issue is jacking it up to get the right angle for lining it back up. Good you managed in the end though matey. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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