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higher compression - retard timing?


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This still confuses me like... i dont see how its not 9.1? I know i have a 5e and alamo based the 9.1 on a standard 5e with a 1.0mm gasket surely fitting a 1.4 will lower it to 8.?.?

When i worked mine out with alamos specs and other guides ut came out to just over 9.1 so my ratio should be high 8s, higher than most peoples 8.5.1

Edited by The Toffinator
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This still confuses me like... i dont see how its not 9.1? I know i have a 5e and alamo based the 9.1 on a standard 5e with a 1.0mm gasket surely fitting a 1.4 will lower it to 8.?.?

This is the thing I don't know what combustion chamber volume their using, Im sure I've heard before the FHE which they have in the states is different cylinder heads, but whats different I dont know.

Here it is again.

CR = (CV+CCV) / CCV

CR = (379.25cc + 1mm gasket + 38cc chamber volume) / (1+38)

CR = 10.72:1

The gasket thickness doesn't change the CR a great deal.

CR = (379.25 + 1.4+38)/ (1.4+38)

CR= 10.62:1

I agree that these engines are low compression and could do with bumping up a bit, but I wouldn't like to go over 9:1 tbh.

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The best thing to do is to retard the timing using det cans. Using higher octane fuel isnt possible as I would expect nothing less than 98/99 ron fuel anyway.

Other solutions I would consider in your shoes is either rectify the piston problem by getting the crown machined to increase the chamber volume or run a water/ meth injection system.

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you do realise the knock sensor in standard form doesn't actually do alot it doesn't detect little bits of knock and retard the timing. In standard form it almost acts like a fuse, that will blow when it detects large numbers and this throws the ecu into a safe mode. So don't feel its "working overtime" by adjusting the timing to suit because it just doesn't



I do agree with adam that this engine should be setup with a proper ecu, but i also believe this on all starlets that reach there fuel cut level because this FPR, and fuel cut defender is just bodge tuning. I wouldn't take your current setup as bullet proof either as you said yourself you've cracked 3 pistons. I've been running 200bhp on my standard engine starlet for over 75,000miles now and its never missed a beat.....Why because its properly setup with a power fc ecu tuned for the modfications i have.



But anyway back to the compression ratio.



The wiesco pistons have a static compression ratio of 9.0:1 out the box calculated from a 1.0mm head gasket. Any increase from this size is going to lower the compression ratio.



If my engine was to blow in its current 8.2:1 CR state (which by even turbocharged terms is very low) i would upgrade to a 9.0:1 setup and tune from there, this is going to give much better response off boost and a nicer smoother engine to drive and under 200bhp you won't have any issues.



For example on the 3sgte engines we do under 400bhp we run those at 9.0:1 and the only reason we drop it above that is to give the block some stress relief because they are known to crack, which the 4e doesn't suffer from. Hell we even ran a 850bhp drag car at 10.0:1 at 2.2bar of boost on a gt4094 turbocharger and ran fine until it cracked the block. If the block was stronger this would have been as awesome setup.



Tim


TB Developments


ps,



det cans are a listening device that all mappers should use when mapping your car, this allows them to hear the early signs of detonation (pinking) and increase fuel or reduce the timing.

Edited by TBDevelopments
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not yet, there is alot more to calculating CR that just punching in numbers. Really the parts want CC'ing to work out correctly.



Bore and stroke we know.



But the head gasket thickness is a variable



But need to know head gasket bore (as there bigger than the 74mm piston bore)


Need to know exactly the CC of the cylinder head (these do change between engines,and even seen differences from one side of the engine to the other)


Need to know exactly CC of the piston valve recess


Need to know exactly the piston face below the deck height from a dial gauge



information I can't really get from just looking on the internet, race building involves doing this with equipment i have in the workshop.



From that I can work you out some accurate numbers



But they are designed with a 9.0:1 ratio at 1.0mm gasket. Last time i installed them this was about correct. so fitting the 1.4mm gasket you already have is going to bring it into the high 8's



Personally i'd just get a proper ecu setup so it can all be setup correct and just keep them at 9.0:1. I'm going out on a limb here but i'm guessing you won't be exceeding more than 1.3bar on pump fuel anyway?



Tim


TB Developments


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i wont be exceeding 1.3 bar ever probably, its my daily I only planned on running it at 0.8 bar due to the stock ecu, a standalone + mapping is way out of my reach from a financial point of view at the moment, if i was to run a 1.9 gasket, roughly what would that bring the comp down to do you reckon?


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i'm speaking my wiesco contact at the moment in america and trying to find out the manufacturing specifications used when they were built.



From that i can work out a rough compression ratio and then change the gasket thickness around to get something.



what i do need is a bore diameter from you of the head gasket your going to be using



Tim


TB Developments


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ok going on some really rough numbers nere. guessing on alot of things



Bore 74mm


Stroke 77.4mm


Head Gasket - Variable


Head Gasket Diameter 76mm


Piston to Head Depression 0cc


Combustion Chamber 39cc


Piston Dome CC (set at 0cc because i don't know valve relief so this will give a lower reading once i know this)



1.0mm Gives 9.00:1


1.2mm Gives 8.83:1


1.4mm Gives 8.68:1


1.7mm Gives 8.45:1


1.9mm Gives 8.31:1



Remember these will drop once i know the CC of the piston dome and valve relief.



like i said some really rough numbers



Tim


TB Developments

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that was just machining specs of the angle of the valve cut etc doesn't really give me piston relief CC



Personally i'd just go with the 9.0:1 and stick an emanage on there. If you've cracked 3 pistons on your old engine then there was something seriously something wrong with your setup. Like i said i've run my blitz K1 at 1.1bar at 200bhp for the last 70,000miles and its never missed a beat, this is because its all setup properly on bog standard engine internals.


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the ringlands went, the engine had done 105k miles and had never been rebuilt, except having headgasket replacement but all else was standard, i was running .8 bar on it was ages, decided to turn it up to a bar and ran it for a few days and thats when it happened when i was flat out down the motorway at just over 140mph for about a minute lol


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