Dollar

I've heard you need a new oil line kit when switching to a TD04. The lines are somehow different. Here; http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?76641-A-comprehensive-list-of-parts-required-for-a-TD04-conversion.&highlight=td04 Take a look at that, follow the guidelines and you can't go wrong

This has been puzzling me the last few days as I can't find the answer. Back when I was along the turbo'd Civic route using the D16 engine, the reliable peak of the engine would be 240-250whp (Around 290bhp to the engine), anymore than that and it was strongly advised to go forged. Now, I heard 220bhp @ the fly was the safe limit of a 4E, but since joining UKSO, I've seen people running 250+ on stock internals on TD04's etc. So just to clear up, what is the point you can take a healthy 4E to before you start running a high risk of blowing it up? Obviously I know every individual engine has been treated differently, serviced at different intervals etc, but say a nice mid-mileage example, good healthy engine with good service patterns... Just for reference. Any info is much appreciated, thanks!

From what I've read; TD04 compatible manifold. TD04 turbo. Oil feed/return line kit as apparently the TD04 lines are longer or different. TD04 compatible downpipe. Your intercooler piping won't work straight off so you'll need some piping made. That's what you'll really need. What you should invest in; Stand alone ECU such as GReddy E-Manage, Power-FC etc. Boost controller such as GReddy Profec B, AVCR etc. A remap would be advisable. And I'd say an external Wastegate, helps with boost control, no wastegate creep etc. you'll need to weld your Wastegate flapper shut for the internal, and you'd also be better off with a screamer pipe, rather than having those exhaust gasses exiting inside the engine bay. A filter relocation kit would be much better to avoid heat soak too. Anyone want to add in some info?

From Largs mate, the 'Scottish Riviera' apparently. My ass. Weather is pish. We have 3 palm trees and 6,000 pensioners. Good ice cream though, lol.

A T3/T4 is a kind of generic term. What's the exhaust housing on it? Regardless, a T3/T4 is a big turbo for a daily 4E. I'd say go for a T28 from a Pulsar GTi-R, a Rover 220 turbo etc, preferably a .48 trim. Quick boost, good power, not too big for a 1.3.

Do it yourself Cheapest, most satisfying way.

Monster truck, lol.

Cheers guys! Knew there was a few of us northern guys I'll stick some up ASAP, I think the Civic has sold! Have a guy coming to see it tomorrow morning, so that will free up some funds for the Glanza. Can't wait!

Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but could the OP not fit all his TD04 gear, and get an AFR and a air/fuel gauge, check how his fuelling is and adjust accordingly? Just so he has a even mildly better tune than the stock ECU. Not sure if that is likely to work, just an idea until he can get a better ECU.

Hi guys. Name's Corey, from Ayrshire in Scotland and I'm looking to trade either my Civic or my Evo for a Glanza. Was looking at getting one a year or two ago, until I bought my Civic off of Louis (He had a white EP91 on here). Had a shot in my mates EP91 with a nice setup (Stock internals, TD04, 1.1 bar), and it was really good fun, so it looks like I'm getting some FWD boost! I know there are a few Scottish members on here too which is cool. Anyway, hope to learn a good bit about the Starlets/Glanza's, so wish me luck! Hope to have a good time here

I wouldn't imagine people would do the TD04 conversions if there wasn't a noticeable gain over stock. 90% of people that upgrade from the CT9 either go hybrid CT9 (Which I believe will barely reach 200bhp), or they go TD04, so I'm assuming it's a really good upgrade. I would say wait until you have everything there, including the ECU for mapping, and then stick it all on and get it mapped. I know you might be okay to run it TD04'd on stock management until funds allow it, but it's better to be safe than sorry. Just my opinion, anybody with more experience chime in. D.