tiksie

17 hours ago, ramses said:

It seems difficult to drive a  ep82 Ecu for a twin coil DIS. Some has wired with the EMU to do this tip,and it is better to  take a standalone ecu to do that...

My friend has done this conversion with a Fueltech Ecu.

With you 5efe Head, you will not be able to add a distributor .Take a 4efe or 4efte head with your 5efe botom end and you will be able to fit your harness and distributor.If you can't; take a standalone ecu

I was hoping that wasn't the issue!

I have a 4EFTE head I can use but was just wondering if I could do it without having to do that but it seems I will have to.

Thanks for the confirmation mate

Do you know if the crank signal is different on the DIS compared to normal 5E ? I have read somewhere about this but I couldn't find much information since the tercel forums are gone  

Been looking around on the web and finding it difficult to find this.

I noticed there's a few old links which are all dead to PDF's.

Does anyone have a 4efte ep82 and paseo 5efe workshop manual ? If so could someone please PM me? Thanks !

Toda's FW is 4.1kg for those wondering.

G'luck mate.

Interested in posting to Australia ?

Very far from 'epic', thought I'd chuck this one up of my EP82 that I took in the mountains here in Melbourne, Australia:

http://i3.minus.com/ibzYxtThrB36oC.jpg

I'm from Aus and there's a seller from Malta on Ebay but they never reply to me (have been sending them emails for the past 2 weeks regarding postage and just gave up).

Anyone know where else I can buy them from ?

Thanks

Any updates on the thread size ? I'm wanting to run my oil temp sensor off this port.

Anyone know what parts are interchangable with the EP82 ?

I need rack ends, tie rods and steering rack bushings.

Not sure if the corollas are the same or not RE bushings and what not.. Would be good to get confirmation before I go out and order stuff as I need them ASAP, being in Australia doesn't make it that easy for me to find them locally for the EP82, but other Toyotas have heaps of support

Thanks!

Do you have the bushings and collars for the steering rack ?

As per title I'm after the following items:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-SHIFTER-BASE-BUSHINGS-KIT-mr2-tercel-celica-matrix-corolla-starlet-scion-/251208011767?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AStarlet&hash=item3a7d2a0ff7&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-BRASS-SHIFTER-CABLE-BUSHINGS-mr2-tercel-celica-/260696426922?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AStarlet&hash=item3cb2b7c9aa&_uhb=1

Provided links rather than trying to explain it.

I've looked around to buy them brand new but can't find anywhere besides those eBay ad's. I'm assuming I'll receive them faster from the UK rather than the US as I have contacted a few sellers but never get a response as I need them asap (I'm located in Australia).

Thanks guys

Hey mate

Did you have any images of where you installed the washers and greased up ? I'm yet to sort out my issue of not being able to get into 5th and reverse, but it seems my selector won't go side to side, just to the left and only a tiny bit to the right which I think is to do with linkages.

Pics would be awesome!

Thanks

Thanks for that mate, will do a run down as soon as I can !

As title states, car will no longer go into 5th gear or reverse.

Previous owner rebuilt the gearbox (except for 5th gear).

5th was always hard to get into (not extremely hard, but harder then all the other gears.)

Reverse was always normal.

Was driving yesterday and all of a sudden my shifter got stuck which seemed like it was stuck between 5th and neutral. I stopped and looked at the linkages on the gearbox to see if they slipped off but all is fine.

Got back into the car and just used brute force while pushing and pulling on the selector and now it works fine again. It was going into 1st and 2nd only for a bit then wiggled it around in neutral again and now I got 1-2-3-4 working perfectly fine.

Another thing is that 4th used to vibrate on decelleration and SOMETIMES popped out of gear, but now it feels even better than before! (SO WEIRD).

The only thing is that I can't get into 5th or reverse.

Whilst in neutral I can push the shifter left but it feels as if pushing it right is much stiffer than left, alas, not even able to slot it into 5th or reverse. Just feels like its blocked by something.

I'm guessing it's a shifter/linkage issue but not exactly sure on where to start troubleshooting.

Shifter cables from firewall to gearbox looks fine.

Took the boot off the shifter and moved the shifter side to side and it looks a bit loose (unless that's what it's meant to look like ?).

Any help would be appreciated. Pictures would be awesome!

Thanks guys

Thought I'd make a thread to track the progress of my build.

I've been into small turbo hatchbacks ever since I owned my N12 ET Turbo in Highschool. Ever since then however I've been through 20+ Honda's with lots of conversions (nothing out of the ordinary. The usual b16/b18/ZC etc).

My most previous build was an S13 which I purchased as an Automatic NA with a CA18DE motor in it:

When I first purchased it:

Stripping it: (You can see one of my old Civics that I was building at the same time in the back)

Motor of choice was an RB20DET:

And it ended up looking like this:

But with this underneath the hood..

Safe to say it was quite the sleeper! But it spent more time in the garage than it did on the road haha.

My first Honda (purchased with the ricer lights. I don't agree with such abomination) along with my SA22 behind it:

My ED6 before I had the S13 which I resprayed in OEM Gothic Grey:

My EG5 with full EG6 running gear: (wheel selection was made by the previous owner):

If I were to share all of my other builds, I would quite possibly be here long enough to write a novel that would take days to read, so on to my current car!

Car's a 1994 EP82 running a 5EFE bottom with a 4EFTE head.

Basic rundown of motor:

4EFTE Pistons

5EFHE Rods

The usual 4E/5E mix and match

Motors had a rebuild on it roughly 10,000KM's ago so should be good for a while.

Drivetrain:

Fully rebuilt gearset (minus 5th) to stock spec (TRD FD imminent if I can source one locally)

Quaife QDF15E Helical LSD which I'm IMMENSELY inlove with

Exedy heavy duty clutch

Induction/Fabrication:

TF035 turbo (currently on 5PSI due to misfire at higher boost)

Custom manifold into custom front/dump pipe to cat

Custom 2" cooler piping with front mount

Fuel Management/Tuning:

Emanage Blue (Saving for either a Megasquirt/PowerFC/Haltech which would be in future with bigger turbo etc~)

Innovate AFR (Yet to be installed)

Supra 295cc Injectors

Suspension:

Currently on KYB Shocks with King Springs (Definitely not what I want, but I purchased the car running this gear).

Put down a deposit on AMR Engineering coilovers (custom made to spec) so will be doing a bit of research in regards to what type of rates and what not I want to run.

Whiteline RSB with antilift kit yadda yadda

Most bushings have been replaced with either OEM or SuperPro

I've previously ran 24KG/F 22KG/R rates in one of my old EG Civics which were incredible on the track, but extremely stomach churning on our crappy roads here in Sydney.

Some pictures:

Owned the car for nearly one week (must be a record or something before shit hits the fan!) then this happened:

The previous owner decided that no lubricant was required so chucked the bearing/fork/spring etc back together with no lubricant. This is what happens when you don't lube up your parts adequately!

Lucky for me I had a spare fork with the spare gearbox I got and whacked that on and lubed everything up (that's what she said):

Couple that with a brand new clutch slave cylinder:

Inspected the pressure plate/clutch/springs etc and lucky enough the wear marks are all even, so they stayed on:

One other issue I came across that the previous owner never mentioned was that the passenger side bracket (for the gearbox mount) was held on by ONE BOLT which wasn't even tight! Reasoning behind it was that every single hole was pretty much threaded bar one hole which was KINDA threaded.

So I retapped the holes with a 7/16 tap and replaced the bolts with some high tensile ones:

So I'm currently back in business, took a whole night of swearing and many cigarettes later, the input shaft spline lined up and the gearbox mated with the motor (hooray!).

So the car is currently on stands waiting for the driveshafts to be put back on and for this thread to commence!

Thanks for reading

Get an AFR gauge aswell (Y)

Here's the reasoning behind my question

Thanks for the insight fellas! Glad I did it that way now haha.

Hey guys

Pulled off my gearbox from the EP82 with a stand + plank of wood under the sump just so the mount doesn't flex.

I was wondering if you guys do it this way ?

So passenger side mount and rear mount (gearbox) removed to lower the box off the motor with the motor mount still connected to the motor.

Or is it better to drop the whole motor with box and do it that way ?

Or getting a jack under the motor to hold it up so it doesn't put stress on the mount whilst getting another jack and lowering the box ?

I've read a few guides on toyotagtturbo forums that state to just remove the box mounts and lower the box, but they never state anything about supporting the motor when the box is out, I would assume this would put alot of stress since the mount is on the driver side and not exactly centralised.

Thanks in advance!

Didn't think of cryogenic treatment!

I've been doing a bit of research and it seems a lot of people experience the same thing. Funny thing is, the clutch isn't at all that heavy and it's just got a excedy pressure plate on it which shouldn't give much stress at all.

Unlucky is one word to describe it I guess and I've only owned the car for 1 week haha.

Cheers mate!

Hi guys,

Had a clutch fork snap on me today (no idea how this happened in nearly 10 years of driving modified cars haha).

Not the best experience for my first EP82 but it was a good learning curve.

So I'm going to drop the box tomorow and I have a spare fork from another box which I'll chuck on, but I'm just wondering if anyone has specific techniques on strengthening the standard clutch fork.

The last thing I want to do is drop the box again because of the same thing!

Cheers!

hey bud

Having the same issue

What ended up being the problem ?

Thanks heaps for the info morgey! Just needed some leads to look into