drako

Got a greddy emanage ultimate, but it's not the blue. Got the glanza wiring harness aswell but I'm looking for a plug and play. Just thought I'd get you thinking

Well I've just went a bought a second hand greddy e-manage ultimate for £500 but kinda rushed into it and can't afford a map now arghhhhh!! Anyone wana swap for a p&p?? Got the whole glanza harness and will come with my ecu. Let me know

Ahhhh i see..Is that the same with the P&P ecu's aswell? Bludy car is burning a big hole in my pocket

What the 3 bar sensor? obviously I've got my standard one but i just thought as i wasnt running that much boost it would cope without the 3 bar map sensor?

If not would anyone be interested in swapping this for a P&P? Blitz, Jam, mines or something very similar??

I will eventually but would it be ok to run it for now with a map for a td04 setup? This fuel cut issue is already doing my head in and after forking out £500 for this Greddy ecu im broke for another couple of weeks any idea on that plug aswell?

Just bought this second hand for my Glanza and not sure how the thing actually works... Firstly I've got the ecu that came off the lads car aswell but will it work with my ecu or should i use his? I understand its mapped for the previous car which was running td04 turbo etc and mines running standard CT9 turbo, Zisco ram horn manifold, Hks exhaust with decat, fmic, air filter relocation and Hks adjustable actuator... Will this be ok for my set up as im running 1.0 bar of pressure and keep hitting fuel cut?? Had a JAM FCD but was causing my fuel mixture to run lean and play up. Anyone know what all the dipswitch, switch, serial, opt 1, op2 is all about?? lastly I've got this wire/plug which as far as i know it goes to a 3 bar map sensor which i dont have :/ Will it be ok on a standard map sensor or no? Help would be very much appreciated as im really eager to get this on without having to spend too much more money!!

£330ish is more my kinda price what's the difference between an emanage and plug and play? ..don't really wana be rolling roading it and fine tuning..that's why I thought a plug and play would be much better??

Looking for a plug and play ecu for my Glanza. Dont want to spend excessive amounts of cash on one and will have the money in a week or two so could easily leave a deposit today. Cheers

But I've hit fuel cut before in my old glanza and it was like hitting a brick wall This is different but i guess it could just be fuel cut and limiting fuel casing it to mis on high revs. How do i over come this problem without using a FCD? Cheapest option preferably? Heard piggy back ecus are a good touch but not sure on prices Cheers

Right sorted the idle problem and the boost delay.. Turned out to be my JAM FCD which was wired into the map sensor. Took it off and put it back to standard and it's fine! Only problem now is I've got a high end misfire/splutter when boosting?? It boosts just above a bar where as before with the FCD connected it would boost on a bar. I've got a HKS adjustable actuator so should I turn the boost down a little??

Right ill start from the beginning... My engine management light flickered on my Glanza a few days ago more than 3 times but now isnt showing, so yesterday i decided to put my works Launch diagnostic equipment on it which gave me error code 42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). From previous experience this usually indicates to an ABS/speed sensor on one or more of the 4 wheels. Will this cause running issues with my car? Reason im asking is i put a thread up on the Fueling and Ignition section about my idling problems and jerky ride. Also the lag in my Glanza is crazy Anyway back to it.. The Launch diagnostic machine cant delete the fault code through the computer and has to be done manually. It gave me two options - 1. Take the main ecu fuse out for 30secs or more or 2. Disconnect the battery for 30secs or more. So i disconnected the battery and fault code still remains ??????? Help? As for the JAM FCD... I just want to make sure its wired up correctly to the map sensor as the wiring is a mess where it joins to it. Its wired in to the the map sensor as should be but the red and black wire for the FCD is going straight to the battery!! Is this correct? Im sure I've heard its ment to be spliced into the loom properly? When i disconnect the earth wire and start it up it runs like a bag of S**T which indicates it must be working. Here's some photos to show what i mean; Cheers guys

Got one here mate in good condition. PM me.

In need of a idle control valve for my Glanza. Preferably one that came off a very good runner without idle issues haha. Also could do with a vacuum switching valve (VCV) which comes off the charcoal canister and joined by some vac pipes either end. Again one that came off a good runner as I've got slight idle and fueling issues. Thanks

Well i stripped the ICV by pulling the 4 metal tabs apart and cleaning the diaphragm and ports but when cleaning i noticed that the diaphragm spring (funny ninja throwing disc looking thing) was broke at one point where its held on to the seal. Its held on at 3 points on a good one. Does that make sense?

Thanks JayJ Just had a look on TGTT and its the VSV solenoid which the ECU controls for emissions. Ill check to see if theres power going to the wires tomorrow. Dont think there is though :/

Well it's joined in between the vac tank and the throttle body/inlet. It's got two wires going to the sensor/valve which when touching the contacts doesn't do a thing :S confused!

Basically my car has been idling strange since I've owned it and im trying to get down to the bottom of it by changing small bits like vac pipes, sensors etc ...It hunts and the revs fluctuate terribly. When driving and over running it jerks back and fore viciously sometimes forcing me to dip the clutch or changing down gear to get the revs higher. When cold it will rev to 2k and slowly drop.. Once the engine is hot it will still hunt but the revs will drop down to 500 RPM Also whats this valve? Its joined from the throttle body to the vac tank on the bulk head just beside the fuel filter and the wires going to it have broke... Any help would be greatly appreciated as this problem is just getting to me Thanks

Bump!! Still have all front hubs and brakes. Will sell individually. Rear strut brace - SOLD FCD - SOLD Rear tow eye - SOLD

Standard do? if so got one here.

Got an engine in bits with forged pistons done by Monster Motorsport. Needs shell bearings for the crank otherwise all good.

That's very true! May keep it as it is and just get a grill and a mean and nicer looking intercooler! anyone reckon a black intercooler would look good?

I thought the same thing.. i really dont know?!? Im not a big fan of the late spec bumpers anyway haha! Planning on getting a varis front bumper in the near future so that will solve everything

Anyone have a set of glanza clocks for sale? Mileage on mine is 155km/h. Mileage isn't really an issue as Ill swap over odermeter.

Just purchased a set of Indiglo dials/faces from ID Workz and having lots of trouble. Basically got the clocks out no problem, took the clear fascia of the clocks and then the black peace just behind that to reveal the clock faces. Well thats where it got slightly tricky..I removed all the needles one by one and replaced the old faces with the new faces and refitted needles into place where i THOUGHT was right :/ Anyway before connecting them up i had the idea of making sure all the needles worked which they did, but now there all out of place!? Now im questioning myself wether i should of removed the needles or not because the faces would of been impossible to fit without removal. Anyone know any info on these??? my temp, fuel, and rev gauges are all out 2nd issue i have is where the wires go into the top of the faces, there in the way of clipping the black front panel back onto the clocks. Starting to regret buying these after all these problems! Any help would be appreciated. Cheers guys