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Callan

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Posts posted by Callan

  1. GRRRRR:@^^^^^^

    ffs... who ever hates fords sucks donkey....your parents owned fords not toyotas!!....

    RS FTW!!!sometimes when people hate fords it makes me want one again.... mmm 2.1 zvh mk4 van on l6 managment and a t4... Yummm, ok theyre slow and unreliable and so horrible to drive, but a starlet will NEVER touch a RS on respect and pure kudos...

  2. trying to keep the power down = fail EPIC fail

    Ross... you =EPIC fail... traction is for n000bs

    no traction is immense... funny and scary all at the same time.Hence why i Adore 2wd saph's on stock 15" lattice's

    on a serious note now... id 4efte it, td04, keep it all stock interior wise bar gauges wheel and bucket seat, get some stock gt steel wheels on decent tyres and lower it 40mm, make it a real sleeper

  3. mate try and get msn LOL....

    its so hard to explain on here to me now, erm im gonna run 1.2 bar on stock internals, you can have a safe tune at 1 bar on a td04 and make 220-230bhp on stock internals, my kit i can keep air con and radiator, you should wait until i get mine done mate and il get you some specs and pics

    gonna cost me like £800-1000 in all thats including apexi safc and some more stuff...

    manifold and downpipe are hardcore bit of kit

  4. ay up dan, imo id get the same kit im getting mate, add me on Msn if you can?

    either get a wepr or zisco, my zisco brand new has only set me back £520, il tell you everything about it on Msn if youve got it

    cheers

  5. Right, many people dont know where to start on how to get a good 180bhp setup on their 4efte's, so im going to make a ''cheap'' and ''expensive'' guide

    Il start with the List of what you need on a sensible budget, im starting with a BONE STOCK ep91 or ep82 etc to start from

    First of all you will need to free up your car, ideally id do it in this order

    Exhaust, youl need a decent exhaust system to free up your 4efte, 2.5" ideally and not any smaller as it will just restrict flow, turbo cars dont need backpressure as such, so you could even have a front exit exhaust through your front bumper (would be loud though)

    Decat/downpipe, Youl need this also to free your 4efte up, can get them rather cheap now days, make a huge difference to sound and response

    Air filter, an air filter like power enterprise or apexi are best and worth the money, they also will unrestrict your car and make it more responsive , at this stage you will be looking at 140-145 bhp if fuel cut has not been displayed(see other thread)

    Manifold, this frees up your car alot, the standard manifold is very very restrictive and has 2 restrictions in 2nd/3rd runners, a s/s or mild steel manifold like a SPS one is ideal of choice

    Actuator, Hks or toytuning ones are good for adjustable boost, you can still keep your hi/lo boost but i removed mine, you can get Jam,greddy etc ones that arnt adjustable and run 0.7 bar in low boost and 1 bar in high, you will need to get the right actuator for your car though, 1990-1992 (mk1) need an actuator with a hole going through it, and later 4eftes 1992+ need the actuator with a pin, set this to a safe 0.8 bar for the momment

    Fuel pressure regulator, you will need this for when you run 1-1.1 bar of boost deffinatly, FSE/Sard/tomei ones are perfect for the job, if your buying new it will come with the adaptor for your fuel rail ,if buying 2nd hand make sure you get the adaptor, Youl also need the gauge for this so you can roughley set this up until setup on rolling road, set it at a safe 2.7 bar of fuel pressure on idle with vacuum line connected

    Fuel cut defencer, (read other thread) this is what you will NEED for running more boost, if you havent already encountered fuel cut you will do when you up the boost, which isnt a good thing, by fitting one of these it gets rid of it so you can run a safe 1-1.1 bar of boost

    Front mount intercooler, this gets your charge tempretures down, fmic's do not creat much more lag than the stock interwarmer, they gfo at the fornt of your car (youl see these on evos etc as stock) and can make your car look more aggresive but you can still hide them if wanted, you can run 1 bar on stock intercooler, but i cant say you will get the same results from a car with the same spec with fmic, fmic'd car would probably have more pull

    With all this setup on a rolling road at 1-1.1 bar and fuel pressure to match you should make a good 175-185bhp i made 182bhp, 155bhp at the wheels and 165 ft lbs at the wheels at 1.1 bar on my old CT9a turbo with a restrictive air filter

    That lot cost me around £1000 to get 182bhp from a stock GT

    You can also add these modifications if wanted, some people believe that these will help getting 180 bhp

    Different management, Like greddy emanage Blue or a Dastek Unichip, these will most of the time need to be fitted by a profesional and will deffinatly needed to be mapped on a rolling road, do not atempt fitting/mapping yourself if not 100%

    Fuel pump, Walbro 255 fuel pumps are commonly used on starlets, im using a nissan skyline GTR fuel pump on my car which does the same job of getting more fuel in but is Very loud

    If you have any questions on how to fit any of these parts above or any more help, just PM me or add me on Msn

    Cosworthcal@msn.com

  6. right i want to clear this up as it seems not to of been explained on here in a sticky, so il start

    FUEL CUT

    Fuel cut is where your stock ecu limits the boost pressure to a maximum of 12-15 psi (it will be different on cars with a different turbo setup BUT you should have a fuel cut defencer and fuelpressure regulator for this)

    This can be caused by simply changing your air filter or exhaust system to a better free flowing item or can even be caused by cold weather as the air is more dense

    The way to get rid of this fuel cut is to fit a manual 'hks' fuel cut defencer or self setting 'JAM-Greddy' boost cut controller

    These are simple to fit and will get rid of any fuel cut issues, however on stock turbo 15-17 psi is the safe maximum limit, Also if raising boost to a safe level eg. 1 bar (14.7 psi) the standard actuator will not be able to hold boost andwill drop off, a Toytuning actuator or a HKS actuator will be needed

    SPEED CUT

    This is where the speed of your car after 112mph/180kmh is limited, in japan they make all factory cars limited to that speed, if you wish to remove this limit a mechanical speedo convertor will need to be purchased, this also makes your clocks into MPH and is very simple to fit, PM me or MsN if any questions about that

    If your speedo is out byt this, this could be due to after market wheels changing your speedo, but thats a different kettle of fish

    any questions cosworthcal@msn.com or PM

    CheeRS.CaL

  7. Bucket mate, what mods do you have atm? filter and decat and pipe aye? that can free up your 4efte and raise boost pressure which leads to fuel cut which is usually around 12-15 psi but it sounds as if youve hit your stock speed limiter and your clocks are out

    Fuel cut is shit and scary, cooch HELP your car shouldnt be able to rev to 8,000...

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