Jwood91

On 5/27/2020 at 9:43 PM, Charlie Thompson said:

Yeah I had exactly the same issue and I tried everything to rectify it. In the end I took the exhaust off and heated it up where it was touching then brayed it with a hammer to flatten it so it didn't touch. Fits a treat now plus you cant see where I've had to hit it 

Ahh Thanks for replying dude! i need to check back more often

I may do the same to mine as it sounds like a bit more of a long term soloution. Glad to hear it wasn't just me at least haha.

nice to hear you're enjoying it!

On 5/28/2020 at 12:53 PM, akyakapotter said:

 

Spoke to Mike this morning he's curious why you guys didn't contact him regarding the hitting the beam they are fitting one this weekend so will have a look when fitting it. 

Cheers nick 

Same as with me I was happy with the exhaust and when I've spoken to Mike briefly he's been more than helpful . I put it down to my fitment..

would love to know how he got on though

I bought one of these a while back with a resonator from TD.  It sounds great and is built really well. I've had a few compliments about the sound

The only problem I had with it is that the rear curve section ended up actually touching the axel slightly (not good when it was vibrating!) I couldnt get it to sit proud and not rub so ended up putting some heatproof silicone on to absorb the vibration and protect the metal which wasn't ideal but more to do with my fitment than the design I'm sure.

Guessing by the date of your post its arrived for you now?

Im not sure whether it could be simple as using some different rubber hangers but interested to know if you had the same issue and what you did if so?

Hey there buddy. Thanks for the reply. 

You are correct it is indeed a wind back piston. I was using a homemade tool from a neighbour yesterday but hadn't cracked the bleed nipple. 

Got it all off again today as a proper wind back tool came through the post so cracked the bleed nipple scratched my knuckles few times, gave it some welly and voila it's turned back in. 

I pumped it out with the foot pedal  to push the piston out a bit again and did the same a few times..

This seems to have loosened it. I've put it all back on and taken it out for a quick razz (tested the brakes obv) And for now at least it seems, all back to normal. 

Ta again mate 

Not sure this shows a lot really but photo if its helpful  

Hi guys

My car has been sat for a while over winter and the rear offside brake seems to be stuck on

I've taken the caliper off and had a look..  The piston doesn't move at all when the brake pedal is pushed so I think this is the issue.

any tips for freeing it up without rebuilding the whole thing?

also both sliders aren't moving when im pushing them with my fingers, Im not sure these would just to the touch as I've not done my rear brakes before but I have done the front and remember them moving fairly freely if i'm not mistaken?

any advice on this would be great as its the only thing stopping me taking it out for a quick blast every now and again!

its an 96 glanza if thats any help, photos to follow

EDIT - Ok so the piston is moving out when the brake pedal is pushed now, Just really stiff and not going back in.

Yeah I was on about the first one but now that you mention it...

Do i need the inner O ring gasket as well as the three pinned one?

thanks for looking that up man. It looks pretty simliar but not quite the shape.. you say you have a land rover one? do you think it wont matter if its not an exact fit as long as its all sealed up?

Hi guys been changing my exhaust.

I had 3 rusted pins in the final section that i've had to get drilled out and now I need a gasket to fit between the two sections

I can't find one anywhere. Does anyone have any clue where sells this shape?

thanks

So any advice on this exhaust system?

Akayaka - yeah its a glanza v - Thanks for the info man (think you gave me this last year when i needed help so I appreciate you digging it out for me)

I looked into this loaaads back then and unfortunately its not legally the case

If your Glanza was first used on uk roads on or after 1st July 1995 where the engine code cannot be identified, then it needs to pass the basic cat test. the 0.5% at idle and 0.3% at fast idle one. this changed after the diagram you've pasted came out. - Updated handbook Here - Pages 4 and 12 have the bits on there showing relevent info

If your garage is happy to go by the old rules then fairplay man i wish mine would too but they've changed the rules and by the book it now has to be a cat test

Literally no chance of me convincing people round here. could travel though! haha

Southampton way man - near eastleigh if you know it?

by the way I prob should have mentioned its a 96 model and does have to pass the stricter Emissions tests compared to the years before.

I've got 0% chance of getting it through as a non cat test down this way they all say the same thing

Had a fun time learning about all that last year haha

Sorry mate I could have just been desciribing it weirdly. does this look more familiar or is mine just an odd one to you? Ill get my emissions results up in a sec but im pretty sure they're testing it the right way

Sup guys

My Ep91 has just failed its MOT on emissions (second year in a row ffs emissons!)

Turns out my exhaust system has holes in it and i need a new one.

The guys at my garage are saying its gonna be everything from the cat back and then also the pipe with a bit of flexi going towards the engine.

Ive been looking at TD's cat back system http://www.tuningdevelopments.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=271

but im not sure what to do about this pipe with the flexi!

my exhaust system has come fitted on the car from japan. its a bit of a trumpet so wont mind replacing it anyway but not sure if this pipe with the flexi is OE or aftermarket as well

Any advice on getting one of these or any other suggestions / info about this exhaust would be class.

cheers guys gonna get some photos of this flexi up too

Thanks mate you've helped me out loads on this one so far I appreciate the effort and will have a word with them

Soz to throw a spanner in the works but can i point you guys towards this?

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?p=537449

Looks to be saying because its first registered in japan post 95 it still needs the basic cat test

Never thought I'd have this much trouble on this part of the MOT haha.

why can't this stuff be black and white!! these cars should be exempt classics in my opinion anyway. buggers!

Thanks mate. looks like I need to give them a call in the morning as pretty sure they're putting it through the standard tests....

could you clarify this for me a bit guys?

I've now dropped this car in to a jap car specialist. They've done the welding (under sills as well so thats a load off my mind)

They've actually said they can't see ANY blue smoke and sounded suprised to see this on the mot so looks like no issue there...

They said they found an air leak in the exhaust which they thought was why it failed on emissions and have fixed that up expecting it to get through. They've then run it through an emissions test to check and its still failing..

They've told me they think they need to order a new cat in for it (£150 plus vat and labour) and that it should get through emissions after the new ones fitted....

am I blowing money away here?

Thanks

I appreciate what you're trying to say but I'll sell my soul to fund this stuff there's no way this cars being moved on!  maybe its a bit ambitous to have it as a daily car though I admit.

I've been told by the guys who did the MOT the underside is great aside from these two spots so i'm not too worried about them tbh. I'm not gonna cheap out on that or engine work it might just take a bit of time to get it done is all.

So sounds like I'm not gonna get through on the emissions that way.. I think im gonna look into getting a sports cat and the welding done to get back on the road and then as soon as I can, start doing things like a compression test and replacing any vitals.

1 hour ago, daniel_g said:

90% of starlets burn oil to some degree,

Yeah saw that mentioned above and to be fair I didnt think mine was too bad. Yeah I get exhaust fumes for a while on startup but its freezing atm so I didnt think anything of it. didnt look particularly blue either but I could be wrong. I'd been checking the oil pretty frequently and the levels didnt seem to drop. had to put some in once I think. I get no engine management lights, no oil light, I get all 3 boost lights when accelerating. the cars done 130k (km) and feels great so I was suprised at how much I was being told needs to be done. 

Am I looking at something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2-50mm-Magnaflow-Universal-High-Flow-Sports-Catalytic-Converter-200-Cell-59954/1830522472

any suggestions for any others?

cheers again

I agree its probably worth changing all components at once for the sake of them wearing together but good to know its not vital if not possible.

Dude I wish I could rebuild the engine and give this car what it deserves but thats just not possible for me. I can barely afford necessary repairs and Im trying to learn but my mech knowledge is minimal haha.

thanks for the advice on the rust, The cars been undercoated but I wanna make sure these spots are sorted long term and not just put a plaster over the cracks.

Wouldn't mind it being road legal in the meantime though!

No way!

So they've done the emissions test to a UK starlet standard?

Just to be sure...  Are you guys saying it should be tested as though it didnt even have a catalyctic converter? like a car made pre 95? or it should have been tested using default limits like lowest right hand box in the diagram?

It flew through its first MOT with just one advisory about play in the steering rack and nothing on emissions.

do you guys think its likely If i get it retested to the correct standard it might get through on emissions then?

If thats the case it'd just be the welding needed which also didnt show on the last MOT (which I found a bit odd). The MOT tester said its only a small bit of corrosion so could have been missed...

What do you guys think about the idea of just taking to a different MOT tester and explaining the emissions thing prior to them testing it. Could they miss the corrosion and pass the car? (Thinking purely to get her back on the road fast here not thinking leave the corrosion to get worse afterwards haha)

ta again lads

Sweet so if someone knows what they're doing its not a big job. What I wanted to hear really! 

To be fair I'd love to do these bits myself but as you say its the time. It'd take me months of trial and error and this cars my daily at the moment.. I've had to nick my poor mums ride to get to and from work so the sooner I can go and give it back to her the better haha.

Appreciate the rest of the advice as well mate. Im still trying to learn as I go along. I'm gonna have to get a second runabout I think so I can take the glanza off the road and really get into doing bits myself with no time limit. 

I'll have a word with an experienced mechanic about it too but all good info man. Always helps to have an idea of whats going on before you take it somewhere and throw money at someone!

Loving the replies already .

1 hour ago, Calum122 said:

You can't just change the valve guides, collets, valves and new seals will be needed. They are components which all wear together.

Ok mate. Didn't know that at all so really useful thanks. If it turns out to be this do you know if its an extensive job? wondering if there are a lot of parts that would need to come off to get access? My local garage said it was too big a job for them to work on.. fair enough as they're honest with me but I'm wondering if they mean too big or just too much of a pain because they don't know the car. 

1 hour ago, Calum122 said:

That said, I have yet to see a Starlet that doesn't smoke. I remember my first JapFest convoy experience, seeing some of the UK's best Starlets...little puff of blue smoke.

Good news again then by the sounds of it! 

1 hour ago, Calum122 said:

I get that they were not excessive at idle, that's pretty bad. It could just be the PCV on the inlet manifold.

 

Didn't have a clue about this either mate so thanks again and will look into it. Sorry I probably sound proper dumb but if this was the case would the emissions failure not be related to the blue smoke/oil burning?

Appreciate the support bud 

Thanks bud I'll look them up.

Yeah last serviced about 10k (km) ago but could do with another granted!

 I think the oil burning (blue smoke) has poisoned the cat which is why its failing on emissions there but yeah def worth giving another service after i've sorted that... Anything to give it a helping hand! 

Hi guys looking for a bit of advice here.

Took my 96 reg glanza for its first MOT since It was imported and its failed miserably..

Reason(s) for failure

• Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content at idle excessive (7.3.D.4)
• Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive (7.3.D.3)
• Exhaust emissions Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (7.3.D.3)
• Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)
• Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)

Advisory notice item(s)

• Exhaust emits blue smoke during acceleration and at idle (7.3.A.2c)

So I've been told it needs some welding done around the suspension components in two small spots and otherwise the undersides looking good. Gutted as this is gonna cost a lot but silver lining it could have been worse!

My main worry is the blue smoke - I had the Stem seals replaced when I got the car and thought that was the end of it, the guys at this garage reckon the Valve guides are worn and that might be why but also got me worried by saying if its not that its gonna be Piston rings or the Turbo. they've said if the oil/blue smoke issue is sorted a bit of cat cleaner might save me having to replace the cat and the car will hopefully get through on emissions. 

So question time..Assuming its the Valve guides and not the Piston rings or Turbo. Can anyone tell me if this is this a big job?  I'm not gonna be able to do it myself so its looking like its gonna be a specialist but I don't have a clue when it comes to how much work this is.

Am I gonna be looking at mostly labour costs or is it gonna be a simple job?

This might be a bit of a stretch to ask but has anyone had the work done before or have an Idea of the price they got it done for?

Lastly.. I know of a specialist nearby i'm probably gonna end up going to but can anyone give me any recommendations for a place for this kind of work? Im down in the south (southampton) but will travel (a bit) for a better result.

Appreciate the advice if you have any guys  

This was a while ago now but for anyone having the same issues future reference pics below.