myweestar5

I was meant to ask you what the water lines on the throttle body are? Are they not vacuum hoses? I looked and everything looks as it should but when I start it and let it idle it dies after a few mins but before it dies the RPMS gradually decrease until it reaches the point where it just has to die. And it is still very smoky

Thanks RobSR, but I ended up finding a quick way on Google where u remove 1 spark plug, rotate crank so the piston is down below TDC, feed in to the cylinder a long piece of strong string (paracord was what I used), then when the cylinder is full of string, rotate the pulley bolt and the piston cant compress the string so it doesn't budge and I got my torque spec within a half turn. (Maybe useful for others on here) Had it done in 10mins. Got the mount back into position, and everything else is refitted. Started it and left it idling for a bit then after giving it some revs it blew of

And she fires! Got all lined up and new belt on, put some stuff back on to just check it runs and it starts first turn off the key! It seems to be idling a little rough and very smoky its almost like theres unbured fuel coming through too so will have to see about that but I am a very happy man for now! I couldn't have done it without all the support given to me by all of you on here. Thanks for all your support, tips and tricks! I'm now just stuck trying to properly tighten up my crank pulley bolt, I've tried locking the wheels with it in gear and brakes on but when I turn the crank

Have it done mate but I've fitted the new belt and thinking I had studied it enough I somehow still managed to be out a tooth when all fitted I fitted it anti clockwise from crank up and back around to the tensioner being the last place to slip in on but it ended up out a tooth. Is there a way to lock the cam shaft from moving while doing it?

Here's a pic of what it looks like with the cam shafts fully line up inside and outside.

Ok that's good info thanks for this as I know it may seem dumb but I could have missed out on having all 3 timing marks at the top lined together. It sounds like I may have to remove the cam shafts but maybe I'm wrong. I'm now going to get a timing belt, can anyone tell me if a Motor Factors one is good enough and should I need the whole kit-tensioner, idle pulley ect.? Also will a 3 jaw puller do the job of removing the crank pulley or does it have to be a crank pulley removal tool?

Ok so your saying that the crank and cam are way out of line, but when you say the cam pulley has 2 positions that I can see once it's off what are these actually for, is one indent for 4E engine timing and the other 5E engine timing? What do you mean when you say "that's probably wrong too" ? If my cams are in line with each other then is it not only the crank shaft that's out of line?

Thanks akyakapotter, that's actually one of the guides I was following but when checking my cams were in line with each other they seem to be in line, see pic below. Do you mean my cam and crank timing looks way off?

Judging by the above it appears you were all right in thinking it was the timing. I have no crank pulley puller so I'm going to try get one tomorrow so I dont have much hassle as most of the crank pulleys edge is already chipped away from someone else before me. Can anyone tell me which of the marks in pic number 2 I need to line up (A or C) and what the tippex mark (B) is for? Thanks for your help so far.

Here's the pics of where I'm currently at. I hope to get back to it this eve but I'm a little confused with some tippex mark someone put on the cam pulley before and why there's 2 dot punch marks on the cam shaft bearing cap. If anyone can explain this it would be much appreciated.

Thanks so I've lined up crank shaft pulley indent to "0" on the bottom timing cover, then checked the 4E mark on the cam shafts sprocket was lined up with the dot punch mark on the cam shaft bearing cap but it wasn't. The cam shaft valve lifters were loose on cylinder 1 and also on cylinder 4 on the shaft that the distributor runs off but on the other shaft which I believe is the intake cam shaft the valve lifters were loose on cylinder 1 and tight on cylinder 4 like it said it should be in the guide I'm following. I tried rotating the crank shaft one turn to see if things lined

Thanks for your reply RobSR, I tend to agree there should only be a couple of things to stop it starting but I was hoping if would be something simple. You could be right about it firing on exhaust stroke, time hopefully will tell. I've now removed the cylinder head cover and the top timing belt cover and I'm just trying now to find out which is cylinder no.1 - no.4 so I can try lining the marks up when I find them. Anyone know which way the cylinders are numbered?

Ive checked the map sensor wiring and it seems ok, plus since putting a battery booster on the code for it cleared so maybe the ECU would only clear it if the car was running and alternator putting a higher voltage into battery. I did order a used Map sensor though beforehand just to rule it out and I've swapped it and no difference. I have read online that map sensor can cause non starting issues but I've also found no mention of that elsewhere online and just other symptoms instead so I was with you on getting that checked maerijn but also half expecting someone to say it doesn't cause

Ive checked the map sensor wiring and it seems ok, plus since putting a battery booster on the code for it cleared so maybe the ECU would only clear it if the car was running and alternator putting a higher voltage into battery. I did order a used Map sensor though beforehand just to rule it out and I've swapped it and no difference. I have read online that map sensor can cause non starting issues but I've also found no mention of that elsewhere online and just other symptoms instead so I was with you on getting that checked maerijn but also half expecting someone to say it doesn't cause

I've been a bit busy the past few days but I've tested the vacuum hoses with a vacuum tester and their all holding the pressure well. Since then I've been told by someone that worked in Toyota that a bad map sensor wont stop it from starting only stops it from taking the boot which I was kind if expecting but wasn't sure. I will still check its wiring just in case if there's a problem with it and the ECU wont allow starting, that's probably not the case considering the above but I'm just guessing here and covering all tracks I can.

Thanks maerijn, I had a look at the distributor and I now see the adjustment slot and it looks centred and I didn't have that off I only removed the cap and replaced it. I want to check all the easiest things first before taking on the bigger task of checking the timing ect just in case something else goes wrong along the way. I have noticed I have a remaining DTC(diagnostic trouble code) for the Map Sensor that wont clear itself. It wasn't there before until I disconnected the plug for it and cranked the engine over but I've had the battery disconnected overnight for charging purpo

I'm not sure, how is this done? I think I saw it mentioned somewhere where you rotate the distributor cap to set it as a quick fix but I don't recall any adjustment on it when I had it off. Could I have offset it by mistake if there is some adjustment on it I wasn't aware of?

Hi akyakapotter, thanks for your reply. Is this a big job? I have a weird feeling it's related to the cam shaft as since restarting the engine after it lay up for a long time there came this strange whine noise when revved up to high rpm's on and off. It seemed to disappear when left to idle. By use similar to a stethoscope I traced the noise to around the rocker cover and I could only think of the cam shaft as all pulleys and belts seemed good and had recently changed belts. I changed oil and oil filter and thought it helped the noise quieten down but its not long since then that this no

Yeah the plugs tips seemed wetter than I expected with either fuel or oil but I'm now thinking its fuel more than oil as I've had them out a good few times now and thinking about it more, would that not be the case if fuel was being injected but the cylinders weren't firing? I haven't done a head gasket before. If the head gasket was gone should I not have lost water level from radiator? Would there be water in the oil or oil in the water to confirm? Since my previous post I decided to try starting the car morning after testing the compression just to see if the drops of oil helped

Maerijin pal you might have hit the nail on the head. I have been wondering in the beginning if I had an intake blockage and silly as it sounds I forgot to fully check the intake after all and you've made me think about a rag cloth I had that I don't know where I last had it. I am half afraid of trying to remove the intake duct as it looks very tight for accessing the bolts. I have had the distributor of a couple times wondering if it was causing the starting issue but all plugs are sparking and the distributor looked reasonably clean I think. I have done a compression test. Results bel

Nafeez2125 thanks for your reply pal. I had the top mount intercooler off a number of times due to accessing the plugs and had been checking it at those points to for vacuum while cranking the engine and it may have got blocked somehow. I was considering the ECU but hoping for a sensor or wiring problem instead. I have to check the wiring if all else fails but there's nothing looking obvious at the moment.

Hello to all, (SHORT VERSION!)- Can anyone please tell me why I have spark and fuel but car won't start, it doesn't seem to be getting any air suction on intake also??(LONG VERSION) I've been recently trying to freshen up my Starlet Turbo 4E-FTE but I've ran into problems. Just as I take a step forward I also take one backward so it's annoying me a bit. Anyhow at the moment I'm stuck trying to start it. It won't fire or even attempt to fire and I had it running only the other day and switched it off myself. I think I should explain whats been happening with this car up until now

I’ve just realised I have another problem. These replacement pump kits don’t come with the fuel level sender and I know mine was giving trouble when I was last driving it. The gauge was reading funny and the light wasn’t working anymore from my recollection. What can I do with this?