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myweestar5

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About myweestar5

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    EIRE

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  1. I was meant to ask you what the water lines on the throttle body are? Are they not vacuum hoses? I looked and everything looks as it should but when I start it and let it idle it dies after a few mins but before it dies the RPMS gradually decrease until it reaches the point where it just has to die. And it is still very smoky
  2. Thanks RobSR, but I ended up finding a quick way on Google where u remove 1 spark plug, rotate crank so the piston is down below TDC, feed in to the cylinder a long piece of strong string (paracord was what I used), then when the cylinder is full of string, rotate the pulley bolt and the piston cant compress the string so it doesn't budge and I got my torque spec within a half turn. (Maybe useful for others on here) Had it done in 10mins. Got the mount back into position, and everything else is refitted. Started it and left it idling for a bit then after giving it some revs it blew of
  3. And she fires! Got all lined up and new belt on, put some stuff back on to just check it runs and it starts first turn off the key! It seems to be idling a little rough and very smoky its almost like theres unbured fuel coming through too so will have to see about that but I am a very happy man for now! I couldn't have done it without all the support given to me by all of you on here. Thanks for all your support, tips and tricks! I'm now just stuck trying to properly tighten up my crank pulley bolt, I've tried locking the wheels with it in gear and brakes on but when I turn the crank
  4. Have it done mate but I've fitted the new belt and thinking I had studied it enough I somehow still managed to be out a tooth when all fitted I fitted it anti clockwise from crank up and back around to the tensioner being the last place to slip in on but it ended up out a tooth. Is there a way to lock the cam shaft from moving while doing it?
  5. Here's a pic of what it looks like with the cam shafts fully line up inside and outside.
  6. Ok that's good info thanks for this as I know it may seem dumb but I could have missed out on having all 3 timing marks at the top lined together. It sounds like I may have to remove the cam shafts but maybe I'm wrong. I'm now going to get a timing belt, can anyone tell me if a Motor Factors one is good enough and should I need the whole kit-tensioner, idle pulley ect.? Also will a 3 jaw puller do the job of removing the crank pulley or does it have to be a crank pulley removal tool?
  7. Ok so your saying that the crank and cam are way out of line, but when you say the cam pulley has 2 positions that I can see once it's off what are these actually for, is one indent for 4E engine timing and the other 5E engine timing? What do you mean when you say "that's probably wrong too" ? If my cams are in line with each other then is it not only the crank shaft that's out of line?
  8. Thanks akyakapotter, that's actually one of the guides I was following but when checking my cams were in line with each other they seem to be in line, see pic below. Do you mean my cam and crank timing looks way off?
  9. Judging by the above it appears you were all right in thinking it was the timing. I have no crank pulley puller so I'm going to try get one tomorrow so I dont have much hassle as most of the crank pulleys edge is already chipped away from someone else before me. Can anyone tell me which of the marks in pic number 2 I need to line up (A or C) and what the tippex mark (B) is for? Thanks for your help so far.
  10. Here's the pics of where I'm currently at. I hope to get back to it this eve but I'm a little confused with some tippex mark someone put on the cam pulley before and why there's 2 dot punch marks on the cam shaft bearing cap. If anyone can explain this it would be much appreciated.
  11. Thanks so I've lined up crank shaft pulley indent to "0" on the bottom timing cover, then checked the 4E mark on the cam shafts sprocket was lined up with the dot punch mark on the cam shaft bearing cap but it wasn't. The cam shaft valve lifters were loose on cylinder 1 and also on cylinder 4 on the shaft that the distributor runs off but on the other shaft which I believe is the intake cam shaft the valve lifters were loose on cylinder 1 and tight on cylinder 4 like it said it should be in the guide I'm following. I tried rotating the crank shaft one turn to see if things lined
  12. Thanks for your reply RobSR, I tend to agree there should only be a couple of things to stop it starting but I was hoping if would be something simple. You could be right about it firing on exhaust stroke, time hopefully will tell. I've now removed the cylinder head cover and the top timing belt cover and I'm just trying now to find out which is cylinder no.1 - no.4 so I can try lining the marks up when I find them. Anyone know which way the cylinders are numbered?
  13. Ive checked the map sensor wiring and it seems ok, plus since putting a battery booster on the code for it cleared so maybe the ECU would only clear it if the car was running and alternator putting a higher voltage into battery. I did order a used Map sensor though beforehand just to rule it out and I've swapped it and no difference. I have read online that map sensor can cause non starting issues but I've also found no mention of that elsewhere online and just other symptoms instead so I was with you on getting that checked maerijn but also half expecting someone to say it doesn't cause
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