TimD

I have them on mine, I use DS1.11 pads.

General consensus is to avoid DS2500, but I feel like pads are such a subjective thing that it's hard to advise. I cannot stand Mintex, I think they're woeful, but plenty of people use them with some success.

Loads happening, but still not used it in anger for far too long. Few bits and pieces left to do before mapping and a shake down.

It runs.. Big thanks to Rob who has been brilliant listening to me waffle on, and offering advice where needed. 

I need to figure out how to get it to run on sequential ignition, because currently it only wants to run on wasted spark. Progress though, so I'm chuffed, that and my dash works first time I've seen it work on a running car.

Appreciate it.

Not sure what size injectors come with the stock 4efe, could be why it needed so much fuel when cold. Either that, or it's from a warm environment and it never had to start in the cold, I did choose the wrong time of year to be doing this, didn't I, ha!

Map is from a n/a 4efe with 4efte distributor, hence the scaling.

Scaling shouldn't be the difference between it firing or not, so I'll likely leave that to the person who maps it. I just want to get the car started and be driveable enough to get it on and off a trailer.

Battery is the first thing to sort, without it we're pissing in the wind.

40ms is the maximum time that DTA can handle. I brought that down to 20ms last night by adjusting the start map, but the battery was the biggest factor last night, I'm sure of that.

Here's the fuel map, now don't shoot the messenger, this what was found on the base map. Which for what it's worth was for a 4efe which had a 4efte distributor fitted to it for the triggering.

You can see from the video it's using Row 1, Column 10 when cranking, so 11.26ms of injector before any compensations have been applied to it for water/air temps. The injectors are standard things from what I can tell, so 295cc?

I'm not even getting a splutter from it at the moment, but like I say, I'm trying to keep things simple and solve one thing at a time, the biggest issue right now is the lack of battery voltage when cranking.

Thanks for the responses so far.

Triggering is fine, as Rob explained.

Trying to do simple things first, so I've taken a bunch of fuel out of the map and tried, but the battery seems to fighting a losing battle. Whacked it on charge and will try again.

Failing that, it'll be looking at crank/cam angles and timing.

The car has stood for 18 months, but before then it was running fine on standard management.

Yes, standard triggering should work, or so I'm told.

FInally, finally got my DTA ECU wired in. I was sent a base map for a Starlet, but have so far struggled to get the car to start. I am definitely getting fuel (too much I suspect), I've checked each coil and can confirm I'm getting spark. I have yet to check when exactly the spark event is happening, but wondered if anyone can help.

I'm using stock triggering and engine position sensors in the distributor. Here's a scope of that:

Here are the settings that were in the basemap for crank and cam

I'm very new to this, but keen to learn. If anyone can offer advice, help me measure the above values to validate them, etc that would be great.

Here's a video of the car cranking with some values, the triggering is working to an extent because I'm getting RPM. A friend has questioned the amount of fuel it's getting on crank 40ms, so I'll try bringing that down a little.

Plug the standard ECU back in, drive to dyno, plug the ME221, map?

Thought these things were plug and play?

YHM

Anyone have one of these on an old loom they might be able to chop off and send me?

I have the TPS, just not the connector for it.

Thanks

Tear the engine down, that should give you a good idea of what went wrong.

How did you get on with the water temps and coolant being pushed into the overflow?

Mine did that, eventually it got so bad the car got hot and cause problems with the head and block.

Not at Blyton this coming Saturday any chance are you? Friend of mine is out and I'm in the area so was going to pop in and say hi.

The high pressure line out of the pump?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-6AN-to-M16x1-5-Power-Steering-Fuel-Injection-O-Ring-Seal-Adapter-BLACK/360709155769?hash=item53fbf0ebb9:g:tGMAAMXQyfFR-QUG

I used one of those, same thing on the rack.

Thanks.

It'll be COP, the S80 can do sequential injection and ignition.

I 3D printed a bracket for my wideband gauge/controller the other day. Whilst my dash will display a wideband value from CAN, I didn't want to hide the controller away out of sight.

I'll be back working on the car this weekend, can't wait!

I bought a second hand 4efe pulley and removed the power steering part of it (4 bolts).

Need to jump on this lithium battery train I think, the lightweight gel battery I use is somewhat of a lead weight in comparison.

No more updates on the car, but the display I've been working tirelessly on is finally at a point where it bolts in.

Should hopefully get the chassis wiring finished very soon, then move onto the engine/ecu harness before having it mapped.

Does that include TOMS stuff as well, I really hope so!

Time is one of my biggest hurdles. 

I could quite easily spend every waking hour working on mine, but work, family, etc have a habit of cutting into it!

A friend of mine has a golf and a DTA, he struggled to get the tacho working. A collection of diodes was the solution! 

I'm no angel on the road, we all speed from time to time. But to get caught doing 130, and then say it has stopped you going over 90 suggests to me, the punishment dished out wasn't substantial enough. 

I'll shut up now, I must sound like a moaning old man. Ha!

On 2/3/2018, 12:29:57, Abii_Greaves said:

I was still driving for 6 month before my court date & I never went over 90!

So you learnt nothing?

How about trying to not go over 70mph, which is the speed limit.

Good work!