TimD

I wouldn't let one or two bad reviews put you off completely, they must have happy customers, they've been around too long to not.

It's for a standalone setup, so ideally I just need the TPS.

Let me know what you want for it, with or without the throttle body.

Yeh, sounds about right.

Let me know.

As above, let me know if you can help.

Cheers

You'd hear a leaking manifold gasket by just revving the car at standstill.

Crank Pulley perhaps? I had something similar on my Mini Cooper S, and it was he pulley.

If the dampening rubber fails they can make a nasty noise. Difficult to check without removing it though.

Pete is a member on here I think, nice car!

https://www.toyota-forum.de/attachments/ep82-starlet-wiring-and-connectors-pdf.8326

Have a flick through the above, it really helped me when I pruned my interior loom.

Word of warning, you might not think you need hazard lights, but the indicator circuit runs through the switch, so they wont work without it.

Wrong sized oil filter?

Label the wiring loom, and put any nuts and bolts into labelled zip-loc bags.

Some drop it out of the bottom, but I used a crane and lifted it out. Once you've removed the bonnet it comes out pretty easily, everything will be much easier with a second or third pair of hands so rope in some mates to help.

Still available, could box it up and ship it at cost to whoever wants it.

You did,

Pretty sure I mention this initially??

Yup, linked to a product that is no longer available.

The cable you've posted is for powering a device using two USB ports, rather than sending data to a device from two USB ports, if that makes sense?

Looks like you'll need something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Belkin-2X1-USB-Peripheral-Switch-for-printer-scanner-and-USB-device-F1U201-/251394289494?hash=item3a88446f56:g:2gUAAOxy9X5TaQK4

I have no experience with the above, but understand what you're trying to do, and that should work.

I've done all I can to test the sensor, and it seems to be working. Even went so far as to remove it, and heat it up externally, which kicked the fan in.

My radiator needs modifying so I can't really test it again now until that's done and I've done a few other things.

Just hope I haven't done any damage to the new engine, it edged toward 100 degrees before I turned the thing off in a panic.

Must have been an airlock, I've tested the switch and that's working fine.

Do these go bad from time to time?

Finally got my car fired up and my radiator isn't kicking in.

If I unplug the fan switch the fan runs constantly, plugged in, it doesn't run at all. If I earth the fan switch plug, the fan stops.

So the only thing it can be is the switch/sensor, surely?

Perfect, thanks!

Thanks, just requested to join that group.

I can't remember the size of the thread, I've had the fitting for years and have only just got around to fitting it. If I come across it I'll drop you a message, sorry.

Stu, is there anyway of identifying the 2zzge coils that fit without the need for modifying?

Diameter, or other markings would be useful.

Thanks

Hi,

Actively looking for a T Sport for daily duties and for the other half to use.

I know there are a couple of you running them as dailies so if you hear of any for sale please let me know.

Thanks

This weekend started badly, Saturday turned into one of those days. I'd left a number of things at home, so had to make return trips to collect them, bought a box of vinyl gloves instead of nitrile ones, packed my camera without an SD card. Nothing major, but lots of little things getting in the way of progress.

When I eventually got to work, my first job was to attack my down pipe with a round file to make it fit the turbo. I'm not sure if it was down to tolerances, or slightly out of true studs on the turbo? Probably a bit of both, because the studs all looked pretty straight to the naked eye. Anyway, after an hour of filing, checking, filing some more, and finally blasting out thoroughly with air and brake cleaner, I got it all together.

I also took a slight edge off the dump pipe, will likely make bugger all difference, but it was easy to do so I got on with it. I also had the manifold to engine mating service made flat during the week, it was noticeably easier to tighten each of the 6 manifold bolts upon fitting it up to the engine.

I bolted it all up to the car, and then got on with making an oil feed line for the turbo. I'd ordered up some AN4 fittings, and line from Torques, I quite like black fittings and black lines. They cost a little more money than an off the shelf braided line for the turbo, but I quite like the finish, and have used the same coloured fittings and hoses in other parts of the engine bay as well.

With the line made up, it became apparent quite quickly, that with the turbo fitted to the car I wouldn't be able to fit the line to the turbo. So off came the entire thing, gearbox brace and all so I could get the line fitted nice and snug.

All fitted up, the photo makes it look like the line is touching the filter housing. That's not the case, there is decent clearance around the oil line. Theoretically the line shouldn't move anywhere, it's fitted to a solid mounted part, but if it's possible to give clearance I always do.

Hopefully for the final time, the manifold is bolted back up. A neat feature is the inclusion of a gearbox to down-pipe brace. This should help keep everything where it needs to be, I've also used tri-locking nuts and fine pitched bolts everywhere. You can also see the air filter has been mounted here as well, it fits perfectly, I can't wait to get it boxed in.

With the exciting new things all buttoned up, it was time to get on with some of the more mundane tasks. Those included fitting driveshafts, re-wiring up the DEFI's, fitting the speedo cable, and making sure the fuel system is all nipped up nice and tightly.

With that done, I made a quick list of the final parts and consumables I'd need so I can get the thing started. 99% of that is now ordered, and should be with me this week, meaning I should be able to start it for the first time this coming weekend. Chomping at the bit now, but really nervous!

The light light isn't a level warning, it's an oil pressure warning.

It's an old car, you need to be more proactive with looking after it, it takes a couple of minutes to check the oil. Why not do it once a week, or two?

Someone might be along to correct me, but the block isn't much good at all without the bearing caps

Item For Sale:
Aluminum Radiator

Good condition, some bent fins.

Fan "not" included

Price: £50



Payment & Shipping Details: Will need collecting from Sheffield