starletgt troy

Thought would post this as ive searched and can not find anything. Is there anyone running an apexi safc mapped. If so what was your bhp readings and what supporting mods have you got, boost settings and rrfpr pressure settings etc? cheers

From experience if the bottom end has gne that bad u will have to get the crank skimmed, possibly even another crank. Tools you will need is: socket set metric spanner set metric ( if you can get ratchet ones all the better) screw driver set pliars wire cutters m9 spline tool for head bolts deglazing tool for the bores or use 1200 sand paper piston ring clamp puller for the bottom pulley and a impact gun depending how tight bottom pulley is valve spring clamp valve grinding tool and paste torque wrench torque angle guage tip ex- to mark where bolts come from and position of parts u remove i think thats all the tools, depending on the extent u want to rebuild the engine and the spec uprated gaskets and stuff is up to you but at a minimum parts wise you will need full engine gasket kit silicon sealant for the sump piston rings new head bolts ( you dont have to change these but for peice of mind i would) big end bearings new conrods ( depending on condition of old ones if they are scratch or marked where the bearing is replace) cambelt kit These are not essential but depending on age and conditon water pump oil pump oil pressure switch get the head skimmed if all the rods are from older car get em balanced and checked hope this helps just some tips for when you do the work pre oil all parts before refitting also depending where you are doing it u can jus leave the block in the car and do it that way all preference and tools available. and possibly new belts

Sounds rather cheap but am always looking for cheaper options of modifying my car but reliably. Does any one know any other toyota cars that have bigger injectors that will fit a 4efte? Been looking at ones from supras which have the equivelent flow rate as sard ones. And possibly mr2 turbo ones? Any help appreciated

Im not entirely sure what power gains to expect just from the emanage, but it will stop the fuel cut. But the boost creep (where the boost slightly increases through the rev range) will still occur. I found this on another thread for what you need to acheive 200 bhp reliably hopefully this will give you some sort of guidance what you will require for your goal this is from Toby at toy tuning and i found it really helpful: This is what we recommend for a good 200hp setup with brakes and chassis to match â?¢ Hybrid CT9 â?¢ Free Flow Mild Steel Manifold â?¢ Decat â?¢ Cat Back system 2.5inch The car is now expelling gases more efficiently. â?¢ Relocated Air Filter to front bumper â?¢ Heat Reflective tape for Inlet Track â?¢ Raise the Rear of the Bonnet with washers â?¢ Front Mounted Intercooler (wrap throttle body side pipes with heat reflective material) â?¢ Uprated Thermostat â?¢ Rad Cap Car is now breathing more efficiently â?¢ Consider better radiator and breather/header tank if planning on track days Car is now cooling more efficiently â?¢ New Spark Plugs (consider colder grades) â?¢ New HT leads â?¢ Inspect Dizzy/Rotor Ignition system now works â?¢ Uprated Fuel Pump â?¢ Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit â?¢ Engine Management/Piggy Back/Fuel Controller (depends how far you want to go) â?¢ Rolling Road Session Car now fuelling adequately â?¢ Uprated clutch with flywheel is poss â?¢ Quickshift Kit â?¢ LSD if poss Car can now handle power and you can shift quicker This should net you around 180bhp - 200bhp on 18 psi max. This then leaves the brakes and chassis which will need to be sorted to cope with the power. I would recommend at a min: â?¢ Uprated Front Disks â?¢ Uprated Pads â?¢ New OEM Rear Pads â?¢ Braided Brake Lines â?¢ Cusco BMCS â?¢ Dot 5.1 Toyota Fluid (bleed dry and refill) You can now stop! â?¢ Coilovers / Fixed height shocks with springs â?¢ Front and Rear Strut Braces â?¢ Panhard Rod â?¢ Lower Arm Bar â?¢ Anitlift kit â?¢ Check and replace worn bushes â?¢ Good tires Power to ground greatly improved. Thatâ??s a basic list of what we recommend, obviously there are many more parts that will net you a good handling car that can stop with power to match but that should give you a good idea on where to take her pending needs. This doesn't take into account basic servicing which is a must, make the most out of what you have no point adding mods until the car is up to scratch

Porting the waste gate is simple, if you know how to remove the turbo that is. I done mine myself and cost me at the most £5 and that was buying the grinding stones from halfords. Im not sure where but there is a tutorial or thread on how to do this if i find it ill post the link for you Best of luck with it tho

good stuff cant wait to get it all set up now cheers

Ohh i see i understand now :-) Thanks for your help has helped alot Do you know of what sort of power you can acheive with this setup?

Ohh i understand now, would i be correct in thinking to run at 1 or 1.1 bar you would have to have a rrfpr to add more fuel than need and then use the safc to cut the amount of fuel injected through lower boost areas? and remain the same for the areas above the fuel cut?? Cheers

After alot of thought and confusion i am still unsure about this and would appreciated some knowledgable advice. Thinking it would be simple confused myself about the order of wiring, i have an apexi safc II and a greddy fcd. They both require cutting the pressure signal to the ecu but which would go 1st coming from the presure signal and which one second closest to ECU plug. After doing some research one person said have the fcd after the safc so it receives an un-touched signal. Does the fcd not just weaken the signal from the sensor making the ECU think the boost is lower than it is therefore making the safc pointless?? The second one obviously with the fcd first followed by the safc. Surely the fcd will weaken the signal to avoid fuel cut then the safc sending a stronger signal to the ECU to put more fueling in result in the ECU operating fuel cut?? Help please so confused

Ill be there went last year was awsome Sadly last year had no break pads so was no track time for me

owww never mind looks like a ebc will be next on my list then. cheers for your help though is much appreciated. Troy

Okay i shall give it a go. I thought was something to do with the intercooler as it was fine before i changed it from the stock. Is there any other means of reducing it before i splash out on a ebc??

I have no boost controller just an adjustable hks actautor, the turbo is made from a ct9-b, with the waste gate ported and the compressor housing and wheel of a speed vision hybrid. Troy

No this is on a hybrid ct9, do you have any recommendations for size intercooler to run 1 bar? Cheers

Any one got any information or advice they would like to share??

Hey looking for abit of guidance and wanted to know what intercooler size every one else is using for a hybrid?? I recently have fitted an intercooler with a corn size off 600MMx260MMx70MM and experiencing turbo lag upto 3.5k revs is this normal for this size? If not ive been looking at getting a smaller size intercooler 550mmx140mmx65 would this be a better option? any opinion welcome jus rather confused as when looking at big makes like HDI, Greddy they all use large size intercoolers cheers

Hey looking for abit of guidance and wanted to know what intercooler size every one else is using for a hybrid?? I recently have fitted an intercooler with a corn size off 600MMx260MMx70MM and experiencing turbo lag upto 3.5k revs is this normal for this size? If not ive been looking at getting a smaller size intercooler 550mmx140mmx65 would this be a better option? any opinion welcome jus rather confused as when looking at big makes like HDI, Greddy they all use large size intercoolers cheers

Hello yes thats the one that i have got not yet fitted it, so cant quote how long it will last but i also got a braced decat which been told helps it last. The quality of the welds and the wall thickness is alot better than the autobahn one though hope that helps

Haha no i made that mistake previous lasted all about a month along with the same make decat lol Okay thats good to hear cheers for you help

Hello im looking for a little bit of advice.... i have a ported standard manifold and a stainless steel manifold which i got off ebay. When i looked at the stainless one the diameter of the runners are greater than the exhaust output on the cyclinder head, so would this not cause lag in throttle response and decrease in torque? So hence my confusion about which manifold to use?? Cheers in advance Troy

Cheers much appreciated

Hey looking for some advise does any one know the torque sequence for tightening the head bolts on a 4e-fte? I know the torque readings but have found two one is the one supplied from Dave at tm-developments and another which i found on another forum which i will post below this but does anyone know which ones to use? Cylinder head bolt - first, 500kg/cm ; second, turn 90 degrees (50nm) Cylinder head x camshaft bearing cap - 130kg/cm Cylinder head x number 2 idler pulley - 280kg/cm Cylinder head x cylinder head cover - 70kg/cm Camshaft timing pulley x camshaft - 510kg/cm Cylinder block x number 1 idler pulley - 185kg/cm Cylinder block x crankshaft bearing cap - 580kg/cm Cylinder block x rear oil seal retainer - 75kg/cm Cylinder block x oil filter union - 250kg/cm Connecting rod cap x connecting rod - 400kg/cm Crankshaft x crankshaft pulley - 1550kg/cm phew ! ... I've taken these settings from the 63026 Toyota Japan Engine Repair manual (4E-FTE) and cross referenced them to the RM238E (english 5E-FE) Paseo Engine Repair manual ... guess what ! ... they're the same settings except for the Cylinder head bolt (450kg/cm for EL44 Paseo, yet in Japanese manual they specify 500kg/cm for all 4E motors and the 5E-FHE !) Cheers

I had this problem on my car, dont wanna put a downer on your hope but mine was the part on the piston that seperates the rings had snapped, do a compression test and this will locate the cylinder which is at fault. Hope this helps

Hello ive been looking and best place to get them from is toy tunning you can take your piston out and measure it and get the exact size. They are around 70 pound for a full set, also dont foget to de glaze the bore before fitting the new piston rings.

Cool cool guys all sounds good suggestions so far, was thinking of doing this meet in month or so time when nice weather is a definate, and more interest has been caught, But please keep suggestions coming and spread the word. Troy