jam-ep

You mean a boost controller? yeah i got a Trust/greddy one very good tbh, depends on which one you brought there is a lot of shite out there, could be yours isnt very good hence not stable boost, will be selling mine if your looking for a decent one, drop me a pm

my old glanza with k1 Blitz tubby 142mph on the gps, wouldnt go any faster unless it had a rocket strapped to the back and an massive downhill, anyway why would youwant to go any faster than 120 in a starlet? they feel shite after 110mph (or should i say you dont really feel anything after 110mph) "202mph...but I am running 1Bar of boost so... " THEN DID YOU WAKE UP??

the pipe on the bottom of the rad is the one connected to the thermo housing the top pipe is hot as should be!

gauge sits in the middle like normal, yup heaters are nice and warm seem to heat up quicker than before although cud be in my head everything seems to be fine its just the fact that the pipe on the bottom of the rad is still very cold which im sure means sumtin is up hoping its not the water pump

any ideas?? could really do with some suggestions as im not sure if its a problem or not??

personally dont like them really dark, but its your car make it how you want it, if you think its too dark theres you answer, get rid

i flushed the rad before hand and its only just gone cold after changing the thermostat, im thinking maybe it could be the thermostat is faulty?

Right recently been having problems after fitting a new Rad (standard glanza rad), got it sorted a few days ago went for a 60 or 70 mile drive and the coolent temp gauge started fluctuating, Ok so i got a new thermostat just fitted it went for a drive but noticed the pipe from the rad to the thermo housing is very cold even after a 20+ min drive, but before fitting this i can remeber it being fairly hot, just want to know if this is right to be cold or if i have a problem what is likely to be the cause?? + the rad was bled for air after fitting new thermo + radiator is hot after a drive

use your standard one dont bother wasting the money to brace it, it will crack from heat not from the weight

ive been using t1s for a long long time, was using them on my 200bhp glanza and on my current glanza, yeh werent great in the wet on my old glanza but what can u expect in a very light car with a lot of power, and the key is DONT welly it every where! i think there a very good tyre but if i was changing tyre i would go for sumtin else, why dont you try something different then you will have something to compare to

have you played around with the gain settings etc on the profec

basically just take off the old one and do the reverse to put the new one on, setting the actuater arm the same length as the original actuater arm before you fitting it... and have a look at the air con removal guide get the belt and tools and have a look at your car its really a easy job bud, and when you look at it you can see what needs unbolting etc

glad your ok bud, seen you at the last manchester meet ( i think ). I drive the snake pass a lot in my van and i know how bad that road is people should be more carefull on any road cus these things happen on any road at any time!! we all love starlets but there not worth loosing your life in one by any means! good to hear you recovering!

the main difference will be the noise, and moving after youve been in traffic as its still getting cold rather than being BBQ'd by the engine like the TMIC, running on a ct9 i think the diference will not be noticable if anything slower as the pressure will drop, but at least your car is getting a healthy dose of cold air, but dont be fooled into thinking when you put a FMIC on you immediately will be going faster

check for leaks, could be a clip loose? just check everything. what turbo are you using? im sure you will have a slight pressure drop due to the size of the cooler and the extra pipework