BlackTarw

I'll throw my 2p worth in too, I found new poly bushes makes a big difference, especially on a car over 50k miles whose rubber is a little tired, steering feel is hugely improved, also just because you have standard suspension that it's all perfectly correctly aligned, any problems that exist now will be exagerated when lowering the car so once you've spent moeny on modifying it, get it all set up correctly, it makes a big difference!

I've had good experience with KYB shocks, I bought them as they were cheap, but I was suprised at their ability, but I agree with the guys, get shocks designed for the amount you are lowering.

Set up wise you'll want about 1-1.5 degrees of negative camber at the front and 0-0.5 degrees at the back.

Jon

Can they do us a copy of the pics for the site?

I could do some funky desktop wallpaper with them then

show season is over for me this year...have a holiday to the caribean to save up for now

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bump

starting from the top:

renault clio 1.9D

ford sierra 2.0i

Toyota Celica (1988)

VW Passat 16v (1988)

998cc mini which became 1293cc (1973)

Honda Civic vti

Ford Escort

VW Golf MK II

Ford Transit Box van!

Toyota Supra MK III

Rover 220 gti race car

Honda CRX

Mazda MX5

BMW 518i

BMW 316i

Rover 75 2.5 V6

Ford Scorpio

Citroen ZX

Mini 35

Starlet GT Turbo (Holy crap, I have seen the light!)

Astra 1.8 16v

Seat Ibiza Cupra

as well as a few quads, karts and a couple of motorbikes and a few jetskis

Just remembered a few more, a vtec powered mini, a SLK 320, a BMW 320 on a skid pan and my mate's taken me for a spin in his Ferrari 360

EBC= electronic boost controller (i thought anyway)

Yeah it's that too!

nah, its cool mate. to be honest its nice to hear some opinions on the differences between two types of cooling.

ok then guys.... personal preference wise.... what would you rather have on your starly, fmic, tmic (standard or uprated), or wtaic (water to air)? say for the standard ct9 on a 4efte??

Rich.

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what you want is to get another screenwash container and pipes and nozzles etc, then have the nozzles pointed at your intercooler for a cheap alternative, you could wire up a button to cool it before a drag race and on full throttle too

ok so some words we can do .. tmic, fmic , rrfpr, bov or dv, fcd, lsd, ep82, ep91 and so on, 4fte an so on, bcc?, ecu, fc?, ebc?,

then things like boost, turbo lag.. etc.

i put question marks next to the ones i dont personally know, their must be alot more.

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Not to sure about FC, could be SFC which is Specific Fuel Consumption which is how efficiently the engine uses the petrol it's given.

EBC is an Electronic Brake Controller, it's known by different names with different companies, on the new Mini (or MINI as BMW call it) it's called Electronic Brake Force Distribution or EBD. It distributes the braking of the car left and right as well as front to rear, so if you're braking on black ice you wont end up driving backwards through a hedge

a BCC is a boost cut controller ( Greddy makes a good one) it overrides limits built into the ECU, for example bypassing fuel cut.

Argh, BlackTarw that's your oponion what ever happened to just a glossary with a small description.. Stock GT TMIC is ok for appliations below 12psi, lagless people even end up grading their TMIC, Even Sub's still use TMICs.

This would be terms in general or terms focused around starlets?

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Well Gaz asked

i reckon we should clear up all these terms, saying the term name, then what they do, why ones needed, what ones best and how much. and anything else worth knowing.

..so I tried to answer his questions, no need to bite my head off

I'm just paraphrasing what 'Japanese Performance' wrote about intercoolers a while back, it's a general description but should apply to the Starlet too.

TMICs have their uses but I'd just thought I'd give a for and against and explain why people would install a FMIC, basically:

TMIC = less lag but can suffer from heat soak

FMIC = get less heat soak as they get lots of nice cool air but generally more lag as the distance the air has to travel is longer.

TMIC - top mounted intercooler (standard on gts and glanzas) generally bad as it absorbs heat from the engine (they are jokingly called interwarmers) which is why people switch to a FMIC (front mounted intercooler). The downside is the air that is being cooled by the device has to travel further which causes more lag, its usually traded off with more consistant power as its cooling the air more, so the air is more dense which equals more power.

There are a few air to water intercoolers now which use watercooling to cool a TMIC, so you get more power and minimal lag

Well I haven't got one yet, but I got into them by passing a japanese import place in Bristol on the way to the gym. I pride myself on knowing a fair bit about cars so when I saw this little hatchback next to lots of scoobies and skylines it confused me. "That just looks like a starlet with a bodykit and a bonnet vent", I've always related them to grey-haired pensioners, but I know how bonkers JDM models can be so I stopped for a look, had a chat with the guys there and took it for a spin. With the sales guy egging me on I nailed an MR2 away from the lights (which suprised the driver!) and after a little spin of blasting up to a *cough* legal speeds *cough* I was smitten. Currently saving the pennies for a Glanza V ;)

Jon

I know someone who put a 5EFE into an EP91. His gearbox bolted on to the 5E and he dropped it back in, took off the 4E ECU and pluged in the 5E and started it up.  An easy 1 days work. He even swapped the timing belt covers so it still said 4EFE on it if the police ever had a look in. You can easily change your tax book here to show a new engine number.

People will say your not insured, but an insurance company can refuse to pay out if you have not declared any modifications, even non power mods like a radio!

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With insurance companies, it helps to think like them when it comes to modifications etc, it usually goes something like: "How can we screw our customers over for as much money as possible?"

http://www.chpltd.com/japanese_performance/japshow.html

anyone going to this?

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I'll wander down, looking conspicuous in my astra ;)

I SAID NO LAUGHING GUYS!!!! HAHA. Cheers for your assistance chaps, as yous have noticed i'm new to this and so all your suggestions and advice are greatly appreciated. Many thanks. Phil.

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got to go turbo route...even if you tuned the nadgers off the engine you'll struggle to match the power of the turbo and more importantly the torque...

having said that, how about the glanza S engine that's 115bhp and N/A if I remember correctly, anyone made that conversion?

oe comon fault with the starlet is the handling. they dont hold that much speed into coners...dont let this put you off though as it can be fixed.

yep, whiteline do quite a few tasty goodies for not much cash

Well done getting the site back! My lunch hours haven't been the same with it ;)

Changed my username too just confuse everyone

Jon (Barricade)