EN V

good one lol

right this is my field first of all undo the rear bleed nipples and fill the master to the brim

this is called gravety bleed you may need to tap the flexy hoses to help the fluid through

this should stop getting an air lock in the system

once your at this stage its just a case of bleeding as normal starting with

the ferthest away from the master cylinder and doing one corner at a time

this job would be alot easier with a preasure bleeder though.

there is nothing to prime

hope this helps

john

they look like great lil pupps there and the parents look great too

im more of a staffy bullterrier person myself the one i have now is my second

after loosing my first one to the big c after a good 14 years life

maybe if the fuel pump is working constantly it could be the fuel presure reg returning the fuel back

that is a well impressive build and the welds are amazing fair play to them

i just wonder how much that build cost

ha ha why didnt he just take out his oxygen sensor out and stuff a macy's straw in the hole

well when i did my oil change the other day mine isnt magnetic if you ever do a oil change on a austin a series engine

you would see the difference.

i service cars every day thats my job and i hardly see magnetic sump plugs any more

personally i think the running in of an engine is the most vital part so i would use a good oil and chance it after 1000 miles

also try and get a magnetic sump plug as this will catch most of the sworf better than it clogging up an oil channel

you have to be carefull because if you do go down the mom route then they pull out a pic of you driving its even

more trouble as it comes under obstructing the course of justice

secondly is the road you got done on well sign posted i.e. speed limits

if not thats one way round it in court and if you go to court try and make out that your job depends

on your liscence

thats all i can think of for now hope it helps

john

welcome to the club

i use mobile 1 10w/40 only because i get it in 209 ltr drums at work and get to use it for free

i have oil preasure and oil temp but no sensors any ideas where to get them from and where to get the sandwich plate from

cheers

john

ok to eliminate the pads rattling try and recreate the rattle on a perticuler bump/hump and then try it with your foot slightly on the brakes

if it stops then its pad rattle like Shahzad says

if your using vista it should look for a programme to open the file on the interweb

all i can get is 48 in 5 seconds all i can say in my defence is im married and have

a lack of use for my wrist musles as the wife lends a helping hand

im looking for more power i had heard tat the td04 is a direct bolt on

can anyone shed any light on this

when i got my glanza v it came with a triple pillow pod and 3 gauges

1>boost in psi

2>oil temp not working

3>oil preasure not working

can anyone tell me where to connect these gauges to and where to get the sensors from

cheers

john

hi can anyone tell me which turbo's are a direct bolt on to the standerd mani and decat

thanx

john

the problem i had was when i set the greddy turbo timer my clifford would not activate nor would it lock the doors

which is not good but a friend of mine who does alarms fitted a couple of diodes in 2 wires and now the

alarm sets with the engine still running.

where abouts you from bud if your close he would be able to sort it for you

john

i know this wont help but i had a simular problem on my gtir

if i tryed to hoof it before boost came in the gauge read normal preasure but the power wasnt there

it didnt stutter or nothin but just low power

so i had to get the turbo going slowly then hoof it and it was fine all 365 pony's

this problem was looked at by several people and it was never diagnosed.

welcome to the club

when i had my pulsar gtir it had gabs on and they was not coil overs so i doubt yours will be but i may be wrong.

if they are not coil overs then its down to the spring that sets the ride hight so i would find out

the make/type of spring on the front and get the matching springs for the rear.

the knob on the shocker will only set the dampening of the shock i.e.

soft for normal road use to hard for track day use

hope this helps you

john

that has to be the uglyest kit ive ever seen what was they thinking

looks a nice clean ride keep it clean

and welcome to the club and have fun

john

great pics bud