Budnbass

Finally got to the bottom of this and it's now up and running! I've been mainly following this wiring diagram and pictures of the plugs to wire this in

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/wiki/EP82wiring/EP82%20Starlet%20Wiring%20and%20Connectors.pdf

And it turns out the coloured wires on the distributer plug are different to what's on the diagram. Same coloured wires just in different pin locations on the dizzy plug. So I've been following colours and not what the pins are labelled as. Pretty simple fix of just swapping the pins around at the ecu and it started straight up. It just took a fresh pair of eyes to go over it to spot my mistake. Hope this post helps any one else who's converting an NA, use what the wires are labelled as and not colours!

So I'm in the process of sorting out my wiring I got the full loom from a 1996 glanza... I think anyway 😂 It didn't come with the fuse box, will I need to get the same year fuse box? or just a glanza one? Can anyone clue me up on this wiring hell? Plus is it advised to get a similar year engine and gearbox so connectors are the same? Or are they generally similar throughout all starlets?

From experience I've learnt a couple of things. An Ep82 turbo engine loom will not fit into an ep91, it's just not worth the Agro trying to make it fit.

The easiest way to do the wiring is either using a 96spec or 98 spec engine loom and ecu depending on what you have 96/98 spec NA. It's pretty much plug and play and needs minimal work.

Or you can use the NA loom that's already in the car and add the bits you need from the turbo loom you have such as distributer, coil/amp, knock sensor, 02 sensor, intake air temp, idle control valve ect and then Repin the NA loom to fit a turbo ecu. If you have an understanding of electrics and can follow electric wiring diagrams it's not as hard as it sounds.

As for engines it would be easier to use a glanza engine as things such as the coolant temp sensors are the same but it's not masssive deal if they're not you can just spade connector them.

I just did this conversion too and got it running straight away however after running a couple of times the basted decided to not run anymore. I basically had to re trace all wiring, ecu points, timing, plugs... the lot and then it ran again. Don't actually know what caused it but just overhaul the lot again

https://youtu.be/Sv0Riyu0SZ0

That's a good video, cheers for that. What's that earth he's added on the coil/amp wiring?! There's the 5 wires on the amp IGT, IGF, IG2, COIL, and then one to the coil, and the. On the coil there's only the loop wire to the amp and the IG2 wire...

On the previous ecu I was using 89661-10110 Pin 1 is for the IPV. However the ECU I'm using now 89661-10040 Pin 1 is not used according to the wiring diagram. I've got someone coming to look at it tomorrow morning so fingers crossed he can get to the bottom of it.

I'm sure it's going to be be something very minor that I've overlooked and missed, so hopefully a fresh mind will come up with the problem.

On the previous ecu I was using 89661-10110 Pin 1 is for the IPV. However the ECU I'm using now 89661-10040 Pin 1 is not used according to the wiring diagram. I've got someone coming to look at it tomorrow morning so fingers crossed he can get to the bottom of it.

I'm sure it's going to be be something very minor that I've overlooked and missed, so hopefully a fresh mind will come up with the problem.

Ok firstly looking into the ignitior wiring, the following is what I can see from the ignitor pin out I have, I take it you have checked all this?

1. ECU IGF

2. ECU IGT

3. IG2

4. Diagnostics IG-

5. Pin 2 on Coil

Have you tried a different coil/Ignitor?

Regarding the VSV's there are two,first is for the wastegate which is labelled up as VSV1,the second is for the Charcoal canister vapor I think this needs to be connected or you have to at least bridge the pins, I think this is linked to IG2......Its Pin 1 on the EP82 ecu pinout (IPV)...try to give it a 12+ signal on ignition, or connect ECU pin 1 to ignitor pin 3.

Lastly have you checked all the ecu grounds....The sensor grounds and the ECU grounds are totally seperate and can't be connected together, I would also check the engine bay wiring loom ground points making sure they are all securely attached.

Are you using a 4EFTE distributor?

All 5 wires from the igniter have been checked and everything is fine there regarding continuity and fees. Pin 4 didn't make a diffence whether it was connected to the diag plug or not.

ive tried a different coil but haven't tried and amp yet, but hopefully a friend is coming down with his gt to swap his coil and amp tomorrow so fingers crossed it's just the amp gone down.

I'm now using this 2 plug ecu

89661-10040

http://epbible.weebly.com/wiring-diagrams.html

And it doesn't have an IPV pin? Where abouts is the VSV on the engine as I've looked for it yesterday and can't find it or a plug on the old loom? I can't see the idle control valve on the side of the inlet which is connect to a 12v feed and DiSC at the ecu....

The Immobilser wires won't do anything once a JDM ecu has been installed, so ignore them.

I take it you have installed all the relevant sensors including the vsv that controls the fuel vapor cannister, I think if you haven't connected this, or at least sorted the pin it will stop the car from starting.

Have you checked all earth connections for the ignitor?

What Id do is get a multi-meter and re check all the wiring loom at the ECU end to there relevant locations just to make sure.

Also what ECU are you using, as the EP82 ECU is 2 plugs, and the EP91 ECU is 3 plugs?

Thanks for your reply, deffinatly some fresh info to think about.....

I did think that with the immobiliser wires as if they're not connected to the ecu I didn't see how the could control the spark or fuel?

The igniter is earthed through the bracket which the igniter and amplifier is bolted too. I've cleaned up the braket and body it's bolted to and pump a jump lead from the negative on the battery to the bracket and it made no difference so I think that's all good.

I was originally using an 3 plug Ep82 plug and but today I re wired/re-pinned the wiring to a 2 plug Ep82 ecu which unfortunately didn't make a difference.

I've checked and double checked all continuity and voltages from ecu to sensors and that didn't reviel anything.

Regarding the VSV I understood it controlled low boost/high boost (vacuum switching valve) so as we're using an external waste gate I haven't wired that in. We've also got rid of the charcoal canister. Would that have an effect on the spark? I'll wire it in tomorrow morning though it'll only take 10 mins I've got the plug still connected to the old loom.

I can't check the codes via the diag plug as it's not connected.... but I'm guessing there's a feed to the ecu from the dizzy when it's cranking as the injectors are firing.

Yeah I tried that first, cleaned up the chassis where it's bolted and even ran a jump lead from the battery to the coil bracket and didn't make a difference.

Yeah i did try that but still no difference. I might try and earth them out when they're together tomorrow to see if that does anything?

I don't see how they could cause no spark though if it was immobiliser as everything that controls the distributer and coil goes through the ecu, and the Ep82 ecu isn't immobiliser so it's looking for a start signal which i presume it's got.

I've recently swapped my NA to 4efte. Using a 4efte Engine and 3 plug Ep82 engine loom and ECU. I've used the NA engine loom for everything possible such as injectors, oil pressure, starter, alternator ect. I've then used the turbo loom for distributer, igniter, tps and knock sensor.

The engine was running with the wiring loom and ecu in a previous ep91 that I converted but I used the whole Ep82 engine loom with an Ep82 interior loom.

I've swapped and converted the PIN's at the 4efte ecu and according the various wiring diagrams I've got all the wires are in the correct Pins.

However I have no spark! When the King lead is put against the block it' sparks once when the ignition is turned on but then doesn't spark again. Is this initial spark normal?!

There are 2 Immobiliser wires on the original NA loom IMO and IMI. These wires aren't wired in to the 4efte ECU so would they immobilise the car? IE no spark or would it cause no fuel?!

I've earthed the amplifier/coil unit using a jump lead incase it had a bad earth and it's still the same. I've got 12v's from IG2 straight to the coil/amplifier. I've also swapped the NE and G wires from the distributer at the ecu and that didn't change. I'm guessing I'm getting a feed from them as the injectors are firing when cranking.

I really am running out of ideas and it's ment to be going for mapping on Wednesday!!!

Any ideas anyone?!

Cheers fella that's a great help. I've got the 3 plug version of the 3rd link that I've been following. I also had aload of photos saved of various sites but now photo buckets changed all the photos have gone!

I've come to the conclusion that the ecu doesn't know the cars cranking over so it's not sending a signal to the igniter to spark.

I've got a signal coming through the NE wire to the ecu when it's cranking so I just wanna make sure it's in the right place.

The only other thing that I thought could be possibly causing no spark would be an immobiliser but I was pretty certain an Ep82 ecu didn't have an immobiliser?

Yeah there's power there, but looking at it today the ecus not registering the engine is cranking so it's not sending a signal to the infinite to produce a spark. I need a photo of the back of a 3 plug ecu wiring loom to double check the wiring.

The engine was running in another car fine the other day so I'm guessing the dizzy and coil are fine. I've rewireded the Ecu using an NA and FTE loom merged together so it's probably a problem there but everything seems to be fine according to the info I have.

Ohh okay, did you just replace the distributer then and it was fixed?

I know this is a massive long shot, but does anyone have, or could take a picture showing the back of the ecu plugs showing what coloured wires go in which pins and it's got to be a 3 plug ecu preferably 89661-10110.

Just carried out a FTE conversion on my NA and I've rewirded the NA loom and added some bits of the turbo loom but I've got no spark.

I've got various pictures of ecu pin out puts and according to them All the wires are in the correct place but I'm running out of ideas I'm thinking mayb the pictures are wrong so would like to double check against an actually loom.

Would be a massive help if someone can come through with this!

Did you solve this? Having the same problem on my NA after carrying out a conversion...

I want to do minimal wiring changes so it would be much easier to use the NA distributer as it would be plug and play apart from swapping the pin out puts at the ecu. Does the 4efte igniter and distributer create a stronger spark having an igniter and king lead? Or is the NA version just more up to date??

im currently putting my 4efte in my NA and I'm going to be using the NA engine loom and adding the extra bits needed for the turbo set up using a GT loom I've got and running a GT ecu with e manage.

The pin out puts at the ecu look the same just in different position

The Gt distributer set up is quite clearly different having a king lead to the igniter but would the NA distributer and upgraded HT leads to run a 4efte?

Hello mate I'm interested can you do £50 delivered to Wd18?

As above need a 98 spec ecu and engine loom for a conversion

How much posted to Wd18 mate?

As above need both front headlights for an ep91 na

Have you checked all your earths? How have you wired in the turbo conversion?

Sorry To hear that bud, put the sr to one side and focus on the family. You'll be gutted if you get rid with not much left to do!

Yeah fortunately we only needed one, I did buy another full set but one of them has cracked in exactly the same place. Engines currently in pieces and slowly being rebuilt. Really haven't had much time for it recently as we're stacked out at work with new reg and all that.