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rob2.2

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Posts posted by rob2.2

  1. dual core rad a must, i had to end mytracktime af japfest 1 early due to everheating

    other then that it was great.

    the rest isnt a must just nice ot haves IMO

    Changes before Japfest 2 that are planned:

    -Set boost at 1.0bar

    -Civic dual core alloy rad, fresh red coolant

    -CAP Clutch rated to 265ft/lb

    -Standard Brembo vented front discs (ungrooved/undrilled)

    -EBC RedStuff Pads

    -Braided brake lines

    -High Bpt Race brake fluid

    -40mm PI lowering springs

    -3 point OEM rear strut brace

    -C-Pillar brace

  2. seek citizens advice but all depends on your contract details,

    i was an apprentice at 17 doing mechanics and i got saked on the spot, seeked advicce and was told as an apprentice then i had virtually no rights like a temp worker :lol:

    good luck mate

  3. fair comment but can you really adore a starlet? i know i dont but thats just me, but mines a cheap bit of fun.

    a r34 gtr pushing 700bhp looking rude the n fair play, im gutten for the guy who's caught fire as that pretty much is my dream car.

    my flash car wish list:

    R34 GTR (mental spec),

    yellow 458 italia,

    pagani zonda,

    genuine andy roush btcc rs500 sierra cosworth,

    rolls royce phantom,

    That's the thing tho, there's only very few flash cars I would spend my money on. And at the end of the day, whats more important? A wallet on wheels, or something you actually adore?
  4. the 2.2 was mainly developed for the USA market but you can get hold of a jap import right hand drive 2.2 s2000 but there very rare, almost as rare a rocking horse droppings in fact.

    ive heard good things about the engines for turbo aplications but as a stock unit not that many people like them and there are virtually no 2.2 specific tuning parts available :lol: all the manifolds and parts are designed for 2.0 flow rates but will fit 2.2 as stub pattern is the same on the head.

    Honda's make all there power at top RPM so it would have to be a 2.0 litre screamer for me out of the 2 cars. but i would love to drive one to see what the difference actually is.

    id like to get hold of a 2.2 fit uprated oil & water pump, acl bearings, arp bolts, stand alone managment, ITB's with some agressive cams and i think you could see close to 300bhp with a 10-11k rev limit :)

    rob2.2, off topic a little, but how do you find the F22? I was always curious to see the differences between them would be.

    A little more low down grunt and a lower rev limit is what I read, is is really noticeable?

  5. its a very often used mistake people thinking the s2k runs the same engine as a civic type r but hey,

    id prefere it to have a k20 as you could then do a k24 transpant and k series engine react better to N/A tuning where as the s2k f20 will only ever gain 20-30 bhp without spending thousands :lol:, honda designed it pretty much on the limit of its performance ability so you need to change lots of internal and bolt on bits to gain big BHP :)

  6. itb's are a complete waste of time and money mate,

    youll see 300bhp max with a HUGE bill for doing it,

    you would have to make it a mental N/A build with stage 3 cams, lightened crank, lightened flywheel, injectors, ecu, manifold, de-cat and cat back system with a stupid 10-11k rev limit to make it worth doing.

    Supercharger will get you 350 at the wheels for £5k or get a mase turbo kit from the states for 400bhp plus depending on set-up

    nice car but unfortunately even being rare pre-facelift models are droppin in value B)

    mine is pretty rare too but got a steal aswell B)

  7. i agree that ditching the turob and going n/a would be a big set-back,

    but throttle bodies with a enclosed air-box and turbo set-up would be of benefit,

    you would have amazing throttle response just like a N/A on throttle bodies but keep all the benefits of boost. WIN WIN situation :(

  8. thanks ill give it a try :D

    just a thing to check for free is the earth on the ignitor, mine had a dodgy one and played havoc with the car. i took the ignitor off, cleaned all the mounting points to the bracket and also made a little earth strap to the bulk head. after doing this it was absolutly fine. like i said, its worth a try as it costs nothing to do!

    thanks ill look for the timing marks :(

    theres the main dot through the cam pully then on the spokets theres dots that should line up so the inlet is in time with the exhaust cam mate
  9. gonna hopefully be working on this tomorrow so:

    how do i check adjust TPS?

    where are the timing markings on the dizzy?

    wheere are the timing marks on the cams as im taking the inlet one out to fit the service pin and re-fit?

    cheers rob

    TPS = Throttle position sensor

    Try another set of leads to rule them magnecors out. Ive had 2 sets fail on me.

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