potge

Hello Nos nice car. It has been improved big time since the last time i saw it. Keep it up.

Nice project i wont repeat all the good things mentioned previously, but as a proper track car shouldnt be a set of semislicks dot R tires and a roll cage on the current/future equipment and most important some safety equipment?

As far as i know C150 (4efe gbox) has 6bolts. I havent seen it myself though, so better wait for a verification

Pretty simple. Undo all the vacuum pipes and the oil return pipe that go into the inlet. Undo the airbox (not completely necessary but you gain a bit more space).undo the five bolts of the inlet attached to the engine block. Undo the bracket from engine to the inlet (it wont fit to the new inlet). undo the fuel rail and the injectors. Also undo on the backside a bolt (back and down you should put the car in a jack to remove it and finally remove a ground (on the back again) and a cable that is attached with a bolt. Remember to put the ground again otherwise it wont start though the starter wil

I dont know if i should open a new topic anyway i have a question for those with rear arbs. How satisfied are you with the way its connected to the chassis? personally i think its a bit filmsy ? a nut and bolt dont think its quite a good idea. It definitely works but i think the mounting should be better designed U clamp? a second bracket i dont know any opinions on this ?

That was perfect on every aspect. Thanks for your time and the share of knowledge especially on the least known conversions. thanks again

Camber wise(cause toe also contributes to wear), if your tires wear more on the inside block you need less negative camber, if you wear them more on the outside (more probable) then you need more negative camber. Whatever you do you must go to a garage (cause you need camber gauge) to check your current settings and then move to your new settings according to the above. If you want perfect alignment it should be done with you (or your common weight) in drivers seat/place, but this is too much of a detail. If you seek on angles around -1.0 negative camber should be ok for typical use, if you co

Your best bet for budget is: 1) rear anti roll bar (i would prefer adjustable) will really transform the car. A lot less understeer 2)new shocks designed for lowering springs such as koni, some kybs (that might be discontinued) 3)camber bolts+better alignment to give some negative camber as the oem settings are awful These according to my opinion have the best value for money. 1+2 are almost equal to me since stock shocks aint good and soon will need replacement (to be honest get rid of them asap) but if you plan one coilovers you can wait a bit. Alignment can help the car improve turn in and

as mentioned before get new softer springs for your coilovers.

Does anyone know if starlet NA brake pads are the same with the ep82gt/glanza brake pads? (Except for StarlettoJoz cause we have discussed it)

i might being misunderstood just to clarify i had a small chit chat with starletto before he made any changes and suddenly i see this. So since everybody said good words (good guys) i played the role of the bad guy. The best i can say is that starletto concerning suspension has the most effective per money solutions period

Wow. The car is a beauty (ok the wheels as everybody said dont pretty match but aint bad either just not jap). Concerning the engine i believe your money were spend smart very smart perhaps a 6speed gearbox but the engine i dont think can be upgraded more (ok with money bins for a little gain dont bother). Now for the suspension setup (which is my favourite part) i wont say anything about the parts installed there is no need. however i am surprised that there is no anti lift (i am not 100% sure i read quite fast the pages) and no rear sway bar for this i am sure. of course i understood that mo

I believe are making a slight mistake coilovers can be adjusted both in height and bump rebound so probably on bumpy rods if you add more height and soften it it will handle even better.(ok if you have coilovers with 15kg/mm it wont happen but most coilovers spring rates are near the lowering springs spring rates)

Spring rates as Enzo said are important but to be honest i believe that most companies-correct me if wrong- (at least from what i have seen) produce one spring and most are similar in spring rates so doesnt need to worry (much) about it(one more time coilovers are excluded). However yes they are extremely important. Just an interesting bit of information i learned from a discussion with a friend the NEW H&Rs (dont know exact year certainly after 2003) are RED and softer than the old that were BLACK. @Enzo no i dont. i just dont think its something special but i may upload some photos. aa

I suppose you are running Bridgestone Potenza RE720 huh? If so i am surprised that you say they are soft as they are considered among the hardest at this dimension. Its also weird their duration do you spin them often? Anyway i believe you have a gt so perhaps 195/45 or 50 at 15icnhes would be better but it would be best to check your setup as the guys said first