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bullet513

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Posts posted by bullet513

  1. turbo supplied by the good man keith zisco. TD05-16g. will be a 5E fully forged with modified head and mental cams. 75 shot of nos for the drag strip. light weight boot and doors when indrees makes them. just bought a box from the PP boys with KAAZ LSD. got all suspension work ready just got to finish putting it on. custom rollcage and perspec windows have been arranged and its just waiting for space in the workshop. looking for 425bhp with the nos

  2. here are a couple of pics i took yesterday, after having a little fiddle with the car, its back in the garage now till a warm long day so i can crack on with a load more work

    wings.jpg

    enginebay1.jpg

    nos1-1.jpg

    turbo3.jpg

    interior1.jpg

    any more ideas other than moving the battery to tidy up the engine bay. battery will be getting moved after xmas, as ive asked santa for the bits to do it all properly

    oh and by the way the wing isnt painted yet

  3. 3rd gen 4efe

    Mileage: about 45k

    Mods: custom air filter, custom exhaust, RRFPR and adjusted timing

    Power/torque/fueling firgure: about 98bhp, cant remember torque.

    Graph: no graph to prove it as i was only messing about on my rolling road at work

    unfortuantly the car ended up in a scrap yard after meeting a tree at 80mph :unsure:.

    didnt realise how good it was to make that much power, always thought it was fast.

    so it doesnt count for fastest 4efe as i cant prove it and the car is now DEAD.

  4. my old na ep91 made 98bhp on the rollers at work. shame its in a scrap yard now, it met a tree at 80mph :unsure:, didnt have massive amount done to it. custom cat back exhaust, custom air filter, corolla mani, RRFPR. and set ignition timing. i had open access to a rolling road so spent ages getting it spot on.

  5. im building up my starlet slowly at the moment, someone said to me about dry sump...

    has anyone done it on a starlet? where can i get the parts? any idea of prices? and how todo it?

    thanks

    Alan

  6. The most obvious is the double bent A pillar bar that dodges the dash, in a roll over incident (the only circumstance where a cage of this design *might* help) this A pillar bar will fold up like a wet noodle. Even if it didn't, the small 'footer' plates that bolt to the very non-structural floor area would undoubtedly punch through the floor leaving you with no protection from the roof collapsing and crushing you.

    In addition the door bars are usually single bars located quite far inboard (close to you) offering very little in the way of resistance to a side impact and no additonal crush area before a foreign body hits YOUR body. In fact they're a lot more dangerous than the nice 'soft' curves of the door card and will probably break some bones.

    Additionally having a roll cage in a road car has a couple of serious downsides, the biggest being in any sort of accident you're much more likely to hit your head on the bars, potentially causing some serious injury. I hear you say "But race cars all have roll cages, they're much safer?" This is true, however in any race car driven in anger you're going to be wearing a helmet. Rollcage + helmet are designed to go together. Additionally being held into a conventional seat with a 3 point belt (e.g normal seat belt) you're free to move around a great deal in an energetic collision, once again making it much more likely you're going to hit your head or brake an arm/leg on the usually unprotected bolt in cage.

    "But my cage is covered with foam" Good plan, however it has to be the right sort of foam. There is an enormous difference between a pool noodle and proper roll cage padding. In comparison the roll cage padding is VERY hard. In anything other than a very low speed accident pool noodle or other type of fairly low density foam will offer minimal protection.

    Once again I hear you say "But I put a set of harnesses in my car when I installed the rollcage, I won't be able to move around enough to hit the cage" Unfortunately the majority of harnesses that I have seen installed on this forum are installed in a very dangerous way, usually the shoulder straps are mounted back to the original seatbelt anchorage locations which results in a steep downwards angle on the belts. In a serious collision this downward angle (assuming that they don't rip out of the floor and your seat mounts don't break) will place significant downwards force on your shoulders and can result in significant spinal injuries. I also often see people leaving out the 5th and (depending on the harness) the 6th belts. These are called the sub-marine belts and are designed to stop you slipping down and through the belts in a serious incident. Without them you are removing another critical feature of the safety system and you are likely worse than you were with the original 3 point belt, factory seat and airbag equipped steering wheel.

    Add to that the fact that virtually no serious motorsport governing body in the world (certainly none that I would race under) allow bolt in cages (without some fairly serious modifications at least) and for good reason. Bolt in cages are *much* weaker in every respect.

    coppied from fatmans post on tgtt

  7. the reason the lambda sensor is playing up, there are 2 fitted on that car, 1 pre cat and 1 after cat, the second sensor isnt picking up a difference as the cat isnt there, need to get the car remapped and the limits reset on the second lambda sensor. had this problem alot when i used to tune the newer cars. easy but expensive fix.

  8. if you do manage to drive in the snow, make sure you clear your car off first, police are issuing £60 fine and 3 point on your licence if the roof, bonnet, windows, lights and plates arent clear.

    its under section 229 of the highway code i think.

    would be good if a traffic officer can confirm this.

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