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Excellent! ill take the one on the left please pm me your paypal etc

Hey, are these able to be plugged straight into a Glanza without having to wire anything up?

So im looking at getting some nice new plates for the Glanza.

Im not sure which to go for, either 13x6.5 or 12x6.

Does anyone have any pics of either, and any recommendations?

Cheers

One of the numbers on my odometer seems to be stuck halfway between 3 and 4. Is there a way i can fix this, or would i need to buy a new clock cluster altogether?

aw great thats exactly what i was looking for, thanks

Wondering if anyone knows of a kit i can get that just adds remote locking to the car. Not really interested in an alarm.

The car key is basically just a house key lol, but it has central locking so hoping it will be pretty straight forward to wire in.

Its a 1996 Glanza V

ive removed the lambda and it looks bashed in at the top, could a faulty lambda cause this behavior?

yea used feeler gauges and multimeter to get it set

When ever i try to put more than a tiny bit of throttle the car dies and makes a loud "brrrrbrrr" sound and sometimes pops and bangs. It will rev freely out of gear, but you cant put the foot down in gear.

It very slowly goes away if i go a long drive and slowly build up through the revs a few times to get full boost. But then the next time i go out in the car the problem is back.

What could be the problem?

To fix other problems ive Ported the wastegate, and adjusted the TPS if thats relevant

So ive kind of fixed my creep problem, but it still does it slightly.

The car is set to 1bar boost, with all the supporting mods, and 3bar fuel.

It spikes to just over 1.2bar then settles around 1.1bar.

Is this safe?

So i ported the wastegate and took the car for a run. It still creeps but seems to stabilise at 14-16 psi

I tried taping up the airfilter but it had almost no effect whatsoever

also totally disconnected the actuator from the wastegate, so it was constantly fully open. Car never made any boost at all (as expected) until 4k rpm where it when off the charts as usual

the one between the compressor and actuator? Yes, have them nice and tight, are there any others i should check?

Ive removed the EBC from the equation, so i know it wasnt that that was causing the problem

do you think it will cure the boosting problem, or just the lurching?

Hey, i have a FMIC, FCD, Airfilter relocation, and decat+HKS exhaust, I have an HKS EVC4 boost controller, but ive unplugged it because it was doing nothing to stop the boost, i have the pipe straight from the compressor to actuator so i could see what actuator boost was.

The clutch definitely isnt slipping, the car makes sore serious progress lol, but it looks like the boost will never stop climbing so ive never found out where it stops.

Could the lurching be cured by an adjustable FPR, the car came with one but its not fitted.

Ive been having 2 serious problems with my car since i bought it.

The first is that it is overboosting wildly. The actuator is set at 10 psi, which it holds at up until 4k rpm, then it shoots up looking like its not going to stop rising. What could be the problem?

The other problem is at low speed driving around town, the car hesitates then jerks when i lift my foot off the throttle and put it back on.

Really need help with this as its pretty undriveable. Thanks

Hey guys, wondering if anyone knows a good place i can get my car set up.

Going to be installing an Adjustable FPR, and will need the fueling set up and checked.

Cheers

Yea, that makes more sense, but ive seen alot like mine. Think i will probably relocate it to the "normal" place

Hey guys, the dump valve on my Glanza is located straight after the turbo. This seems like an odd place to me, usually i see them just before the inlet manifold.

Is there any advantage or disadvantage to its location?

Hey, thanks for the quick replies, just another quick question: is the car safe running at 0.7 bar without an aFPR? also what kind of damage could have been caused if the previous owner had been running with higher boost without one

EDIT: also when trial and error setting the actuator, should i have the EBC set to 0.4bar, and then use the boost gauge to determine when im at 0.6. Then set the ebc to 0.6 low and 1.0 high.

Ive just bought my first Glanza V, and need some help setting up the engine mods.

It came with a FMIC, FCD, and an EBC. The EBC is set to 0.7 bar.

Also is this an aftermarket adjustable actuator? It looks strange because the nut isnt tightened so not sure whats going on there:

Ive ordered an adjustable FPR. Once it comes my aim is to run 1bar using the EBC at high boost, and 0.6 at low boost.

What i need to know is, how do i set the actuator to 0.6bar?

What should i set the FPR to? also how do i set it, with the car idling and the VAC line removed and blocked?

Thanks in advance