Sudden

the oem ecu is not able to properly fuel itbs, due to the unusable map signal. standalone engine management is a must. and to be quite frank. itbs on a stock 4efe is a giant waste of time. understanding how and why a build will benefit from itbs would eliminate the need to ask questions like this. 

nice work, any chances of a video clip of the engine revving with the plenum? :D

not sure if It was mentioned before. but what thickness headgasket are you using?

if the jets were changed, look at the sizes written on them. If you are referring to the idle fuel screw, send it all the way in( dont over tighten) and back it out one and a half turn, that is a good starting point. also make sure the float level is set correctly.

not sure how useful this info is, but the header/exhaust from the 4wd nze121 corolla is tucked closer to the engine and might fir the starlet firewall easier?

I cant wait to see your results. :)

welcome back, I've been trying to remember the name of this thread to find a particular post. awesome timing.

EDIT: could you repost a picture of the wiseco custom piston please?

19 hours ago, 4-efteNL said:

Where can i find this?

there is no check engine light at all by the way.

 

I have tried to start on various days, seems that it only has a rough start when it's been raining like crazy and the temp outside is cold. on warmer days it starts almost instantly.

 

Also my wastegate on the CT9 has been acting weird. it's open in 1st to 4th gear until i really hit it on the freeway, then it closes and the turbo sounds normal. might it be that when my wastegate is open at night, my internals get moist and it starts rough???

on the thermostat housing under the distributor? the green 2 wire plug.make sure none of the wires are brittle and/or broken.

Are the wires to the 2 wire coolant temp sensor, or one of the wires to the 3 wire coolant temp sensor (depending on model) broken? is there a check light?

On 07/01/2018, 17:56:53, crossflow said:

Would be nice if you could link to a few photos of the usdm heads at all??

http://machineshoppros.com/toyota-1-5l-5efe-tercel-paseo-corsa-dohc-cylinder-head-91-99-zero-miles.html The link i found previously was in an old Tercel forum, i'll try to find and link that later as well.

EDIT: http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/sleepyrz/5efedis_head_4-1.jpg

heh, when i first put my motor together i forgot to install the plate entirely. i cant even remember where i put it, ill sort it sometime. Did some research and the usdm 5e head with the cam sensor has recessed areas in the same spots where my 4e pistons are touching the head. 

update: Dont use the usdm metal headgasket with 4efe pistons, the outer edges of the pistons hit the head at high temp/rpms. Currently refreshing my engine and noticed it. woops.

kinda jelous, the g6 box doesnt exist in my market, and 6 speeds in general are like diamonds here. one of those would polish my build off nicely.

8 hours ago, Mxdsnny said:

6 speed on a n/a has it been done? Is it worth doing? Do you need a different clutch? Is there a code on the side of the box to tell if it’s a six speed n not a five? Help would be appreciated. 

Thanks Dan

toyota did poorly with labeling the gearboxes. but the 6 speed is easy to spot when you look at the end cap that covers 5th and 6th gears, its shaped different to the 5 speeds there and longer.

On 21/11/2017, 15:23:44, Calum122 said:

...'But the problem I have, is the cost. For that same money I bet you could have had a 300bhp starlet.

 

Now don't get me wrong, you have a purpose for it. But for anyone looking to have a road going car, or track car without limitations, I don't see the sense.'

 

i find ways to re-purpose parts and do my own labour to cut costs while still meeting/exceeding the spec i'm after, so no. I couldn't have had a 300bhp starlet. well I could have, but for how long?

at 300bhp i would need bigger wheels, to fit bigger tyres, an lsd different gearing. boost is a long slippery slope and I have exactly 0 interest in E series engines on boost. my only interest was the fact that the toyota starlet Gi and not the gt, was a homologation spec model for a race series, and i wanted to see why toyota didnt use parts they already had to raise the spec...and in building mine I understand more. Boost is fun, but a pointless waste of money where I live in my opinion, our roads are trash and few turbo starlets even bother to do trackdays. if i had a stock turbo starlet i'd daily it and go full on with my time attack build (engine spec is already fully planned out, aluminium toyota 2.0/ screamer )

p.s.My initials for my middle names literally are N. A. 

pump gas, i went efi because the rebuild parts for the carburettors i had were 320+usd and the itb setup with harness, injectors map sensor, throttle position sensor, air temp sensor, fuel rail with pressure regulator all cost 19usd lol

they are ITBs the injectors are mounted underneath and facing directly at the ports on the head lol. It had itbs on it before.

the early model yamaha itbs looked similar to carburettors because they repurposed the vacuum slides for economy and noise supression.

previous carburettor setup (yamaha fj1100 1984) -

https://www.instagram.com/p/rswbBvN9Bu/

side view of efi itbs (yamaha r6 2004) - 

dyno run - 133.9hp to the wheels, 118.7 lb ft. -

*reinforcing what Colin said*

when you buy oem pistons they come with a pin, so always keep the pin paired with the piston.

*thread mysteriously dies*

after struggling for a bit, and remembering most forums do not like outside links. and imageshack deleting my account...how do I upload pics in 2017 besides instagram? *facepalm*

i tried to upload a 130kb .jpg file into the post and got an error 'max filesize 500kb'

*confused* clearly i forgot how to internet.

edit:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0ts88qtb059sd8x/baypicture.png?dl=0 

having disassembled multiple e series engines, i was curious how high i could push the compression ratio since the 4e piston dome is twice as tall as the 5efhe dome. for example, the 5efhe pistons in a 4efe would lower the compression ratio because of the shorter stroke of the 4e + the lower dome height. 

how the heads flow wasnt my concern with the exhaust setup, to be honest I just wanted to keep it in the toyota family, and designing an extractor from scratch wasnt within the budget. someone just happened to have a slvertop header for sale so i bought it, had a flange made, and modified the pipes(the pipes for cylinder1 and 4 have to be brought inwards to match the head, which involves some heating and bending for cylinder 4, and about an inch removed from cylinder 1's piping. I especially did it to keep the oem style heat sheild from the 4age 20v. 

I love the reactions I get when people see my engine bay. my exhaust setup could definately be better. but until I can come up with a high rise style design incorporating stepped sections for the diameters and lengths i'm after, I wont bother....its pointless considering it has already surpassed my expectations, and is my daily driver. 

*raises hand* most of my build is documented on my instagram @c.n.a.b. 

I was curious and wanted to try getting the most performance out of all oem internals, so i decided to build from scratch, 1999 5efe jdm coilpack motor (coils at the side of head vs ontop as per usdm obd2) came with 5efhe pistons on the 'skinny rods' and a fairly thick headgasket to keep the compression at the 5efe 9.4:1. noted for research purposes as there are may variations to the jdm 5efe with respects to pistons and rods used, different headgaskets are used from oe to retain the low 9.4:1 compression below the regular 5efhe.

moving on, I slapped some 4e-f pistons on the rods, installed a usdm 5efe obd2 metal 0.6mm headgasket and put my 5efhe cams in. Originally had bike carbs but they were too expensive to repair/maintain, ordered 04 yamaha(keeping it in the family) 38mm itbs because i was experimenting with pre-butterfly throttle slides for tuning/response characteristics,(after tuning i realise that they boost low load mpgs and silence the signature itb snarl to an oem like whisper) 4age 20v silvertop header modified to fit, the 5e head, blacktop y-pipe installed, exhaust piping is 2.25inch with a 2 inch straight through oval resonator where the cat should be, and a 2.25inch resonator after the rear axle.

currently running microsquirt v3 because i love the tunerstudio software, street tuned the car myself, Alpha-n, 91 octane, very conservative ignition timing map which i built using homemade DET cans, switched the valve timing to the 4e marks to smooth the powerband and raise the peak. When i was finally satisfied, I did some dyno runs and it made 133.9wheel horsepower at 6700rpm(power was still climbing but my soft cut rev-limiter settings started to progressively retard the ignition timing) and 118.7lb ft of torque at 4871rpm.

if i had it tuned on the dyno I could have definitely extracted more power by adding more ignition timing in a controlled environment as i was scared to for my road tune. Soft cut rev limiter settings adjusted now to retard timing at 7000rpm with the hard cut set at 7200.

Average cylinder pressure is 255psi.

the 3 pin temperature sensor is basically the 2 wire sensor + the single wire sensing unit put together to reduce the number of units on the thermostat housing. The 2 pins that are side by side are the pair for the ecu, and the single at the top goes to the gauge.

Everytime you step up its exciting! that mitsu cam sensor mod is common here but not the full evo ecu setup, good work!

Confirmed *thumbs up* love the build. I like the way that diff is serviceable. I'm tempted to buy ome and have it machined to fit my 6 bolt ring gear. :'(