fordie_glanzaV

Currently running a c52 box with oem lsd. Which needs rebuilding.

Got chance of a c56 box which also needs syncros replacing but can get it fairly cheap.

So was thinking of getting that and rebuilt so i can do a straight swap...

I read that the c52 has a longer 3rd and 4th ratio but is there a noticeable drop between the boxes???

Bump

Recieved carbon eyebrows as described.. quick postage, well wrapped & boxed..

Thanks alot mate.

Gear box?? or this the 1 u took deposit on.

Pm me if available

I was quoted 1500 & 1800 for a full spray, this included fitting new wings a bonnet also

You get what you pay for imo and paint is something im very picky about so i would rather have it done right first time

This is more along the lines of what we charge down my way..

As above.. mine needs rebuilding so considering options...

What u got?

Item For Sale: ct9 for spairs or repairs. Compressor seals gone.

Item Condition & Description: used, compressor seals gone. Smokes on idle.. minimall shaft play.

Wastegate welded. Shitty welding nout to do with me.. came on the car. Might b of use to someone

Price: £20 plus delivery

Pictures:

Payment & Shipping Details: paypal plus delivery

Yeh ill post up when i get some info off them..

Deal with toyota through work so get a bit of discount too.

Thanks for help guys ill keep u updated.

Just been down to my mates garage and he just explained all that for me.

My knowledge on gearboxes is a bit poor...lol.

He's agreed to strip it out for me.

Does anyone stock box components or is it a case of a phone call to toyota?

If its the selector fork would it not do it in every gear...

No whining no...

Would it actually be the gear or syncro..

Cus like i said once its in its fine..

Its just the initial getting it in its tryna pop back out...

Reading up the syncros arent to much to buy...

Sinse owning the car for past 2 year the 3rd gear syncro's have been playing up.

Never got any bettet or worse. So a slight crunch going in and out never bothered me.

But past couple of days down changing into 3rd its tryna pop out.. only happens if im having bit of a spirited drive..1nce its in 3rd its fine and it stays in..

This sign that syncros f***ed completely? could do with peoples opinions.

Its a oem lsd box so ideally wanna keep it.

So whats best route to take next?

Any help b much appriciated.

Congratulations on little 1 mate. Hope all is good.

Pm'd

Corrr... that description has sold it for me... lol

I've spotted it couple times to..

Dark wheels on it it?

These were advertised as rota Alecia 1/10 wheels. Atleast they are realistic!!

Quick pick of mine

Always forever adjisting fuel mixtures on the nitro 1s.. 1day when u think its right soon after needs adjusting again. Was very tempermental..

A good electric setup will b a match for nitro.. and cheaper to run.

Yeh the electric 1s are more religable.. and alot less maintainence..

As above with a good brushless motor and a good electronic speed controller u can get high speeds out of them..

Alot of the speed controllers are programable aswell so can adapt power too your needs..

My series 1 mission should reach 60ish if i actually finished it..

This is making me wanna it out now :-D

I've got an electric 1 too. Used to race them indoors but gave it up. Started making it into a drift chassis but got bored so sat collecting dust atm lol...

But your right hundreds of bits out there for them..

Also agree with trisk electric over nitro anyday...

I've ran couple sets of d1 nuts never had a problem..

Check them often and never come loose..

This car is stunning...

Cracking car mate.

i have 16x8j grids et 10, no major arch work needed just folding the lip over in the rear. No problem on the front with 40mm lowering springs

Same as i done just rolled the lip up.. job done..

Im on 15x7 grid v et20 195/50/15 on the rears. I had to roll my arches.. was catching like hell.

No probs now arches done...

Dunno what fronts are like as only on 15x7 et40