subs n amps

[kaylee]

i wanna get 2x12" FLI subs 1000watts each, and i want a FLI amp too, they dont do 2000watt amp so would i have to buy two 1000watt amps? or is that just a waste? the subs give out 350 RMS if that helps i think?

[MattyCD]

i wanna get 2x12" FLI subs 1000watts each, and i want a FLI amp too, they dont do 2000watt amp so would i have to buy two 1000watt amps? or is that just a waste? the subs give out 350 RMS if that helps i think?

pretty pointless when u got nothin to put em in

[Bourkey]

Why would you want two Fli subs. Have you heard one. They pack quite a bit of punch you know. I have one in my boot and it bangs pretty hard. Two of them and you wouldn't be able to hear the treble of the sound. All you would hear is bass.

Here is my boot

I'd say a 300w-500w amp would be more than sufficent. A 1000w amp would kill it in a week.

Hope this helps

Bourkey

[MattyCD]

Yup Josie, more Subs dosent neccessarily mean more sound, a sub produces a frequency, so if you get alot of power to that frequency, u wont need another sub

[kaylee]

i know that more subs dont mean just more sound. so would say a 400watt amp power a 1000watt sub?

[MattyCD]

i'd say get two 4 channel amps, good quality ones and one 10 or 12 inch subwoofer, that way you can also run a good set of speakers.

[kaylee]

12" FLI subwoofer

RMS Power: 300 watts

Peak Power: 1000 watts

Sensitivity: 90db

Frequency Response: 20 - 1500 Hz

Impedance: 4 Ohm

Mounting Diameter: 285 mm

so if it says 300 watts rms do i look for a 300watt amp? or a bigger one its confusing lol

[julian-ep91]

http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....showtopic=13887

that should do the job! open to offers on it

[SiCaln]

I have 1 mono-channela mp for mt sub, and 1 4 channel amp for my speakers

[ecksjay]

hmm, think you guys need a bit of education, not to sound too condescending ^;

I dont wanna sound all teacher'y, but the watt figures you're quoting mean absolutely nothing. '1000w' amps are NOT 1000w rated, that is just a bullshit figure they pluck out of the air. the ONLY ratings you need to pay attention to are the RMS figures, nothing else matters.

To give you some history, the peak or max figures are actually the output from the amp, if it were to basically get struck by lightning, a second before blowing up. it is the theoretical maximum that it could ever output, if given loads of voltage, and allowed to explode shortly after. In reality, its just a random figure that the manufacturers slap on the boxes to draw people in, it actually rarely reflects the true output or power handling of the equipment.

a 350wRMS sub should give a fair old whack, if combined with a suitable amplifier, that has the power handling to cope.

Even an amplifier rated at 200wRMS would be fine, however ideally you need to use an amplifier with higher power handling than the connected speakers, to give you some headroom and not over-stress the amplifier.

To get even more technical, you will need to pay attention to the impedance the connected speakers will load the amplifier to, which is decided by the voice coil configuration of the speaker.

a single-voice coil 4ohm sub will obviously load the amplifier at 4ohm, however a dual-voice coil sub will actually load the amplifier down to 2ohm, which some amplifiers are not designed to cope with, and so they will overheat and either break, shutdown or burst into flames (i've seen it happen on alot of cheaper amplifiers as they do not have the necessary protection circuits to prevent against overloads).

Basically, there's alot more to it than just going "OH YEAH 1000W AMP WITH A 1000W SUB BE FINES MAET ^;".

If you want a truly compatable setup, then i'd be more than happy to offer affordable suggestions.

Put it this way, i've had an amp before that was 12years old, measured 24" in length, cost £1050 when new and output around 2x400wrms @ 4ohm, however it was in fact 2ohm stable, so you'd be looking at around 2x600-800wrms when loaded at that impedance. It doesn't sound alot, but in your 'max/peak' figures, it would probably be in the region of 5000-6000w, but again those are just bullshit figures. It also weighed a ton, as it was made in the days when money wasn't any object, just high quality equipment with high quality parts were used, such a good piece of equipment.

wow, that makes me sound like a right geek ^^;

[Bourkey]

I was going to say something like that ecks but i was in a rush.

Ecks is right though. My sub is 1000 watt max power and i have a 300w amp powering it. It sounds really good and punchy. The last thing you want to do is fill your car with weighty subs or tons of bass. You have to have some sort of balance in the sound. I have two very loud pioneer 4" er's at the front and the 12" sub in the back. I was going to add 6x9's but there was just no need as that was plenty. I haven't even got the sub on a high setting as im not mad on bass.

Bourkey

[SiCaln]

yea my setup uses the base to make the other speakers sound better by taking the low frequencies from them, allowing them to focus on mid and high range

[StarletRick]

tbh all you neeed for nice punchy sound is a wee 10 inch sub just to help the comps along on their way.

[SooperD]

Agree with Si on that 1. I ran front infinity tweeters, JBL 6x9's on my headunit 50x4 and 2x12" kenwoods on a cheap 600w amp and it sounded great. Take almost all the bass of your speakers and let your subs do that work. Then u get all the nice clean vocals,symbols etc from your speakers without them distorting massively from the bass..

[garbla900]

like ive just poted on the other one thats here ecksjay is right. no offence to the lady but 2 subs in a starlet and ull probly lose a number plate or body panels everytime the tunes got thumping mines bad enough with one 10 inch. lol but the easyest thing to do is look at your pals see what theve done a learn from ther mistakes.

the whole thing that u read in tha back of max power " matched amp and sub is kinna false advertising cause they both say 1000w peak. thats not muched thats putting number that are the same together.

what i would recomend for the people who arent to in to the sound like ecksjay and my self who seem to know every little detail and are a bitt old skool about our views get a good set of wiring nothing bigger than 8 gauge run the cables right i.e power lines one side phonos the other ,and keep it sensible i know its really tempting to go and get the latest and gr8st but belive me,its been done before it's been on the go for years as ill tell you when i came on the seen bout 12 years ago with my pals and there brothers it wasent even new then.

but have fun with it thats the whole reason we do this to our cars to be different to stand out from the crowd. but we also like to get good stuff that dosent break. if you were looking for subs dont buy fli its pish compaired to the black air get one of them or an infinity 12 really punchy at high freq's but bassy at lows. like i say try it in halfords they will have most of it on display and they can plug it up to an amp in the board go tryem out and blast it loud for me i now hate halfords but they got some usable stuff lmao

[Sparky]

Subs and Amps is just a phase... I went through it, I look back and think what a waste of time

I had 2x 12" Pioneers and a 2000w amp, was quite insane!! Also had a JL Audio W7 that thing was out of this world and nearly blew my rear window out ;)

Now I just have 10cm front speakers which I am more than happy with

[garbla900]

im surpised u dident blow out your window with that much in your boot. lol you can go over bored with it but like he says you do grow out of it atm i aint even got a stero in mine and i dont mis it atm cause imm only going to and from work not enough time to miss it.