A L 3 X Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 First of all, could anyone tell me what oil is best to use in a Glanza V? I was thinking of 5w-50 Fully Synthetic but not too sure?Also, Is there a good method to undersealing or what products to use, for example Underbody Seal, WaxOyl, Upol Gravitex stonechip, etc? Would it just be a case of cleaning and degreasing the underside(car was recently imported and hasnt seen much wet weather since), then drying out with a heat gun in a garage and spraying the profduct on?Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
QUADLIGHT GT Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 most people normally use semi synthetic 10w-40 oilive undersealed mine last week actually.. i degreased n wire brushed where there was any rust.. & painted on 2 coats of underseal-waxoilusually one coat is enough tho Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 most people normally use semi synthetic 10w-40 oilive undersealed mine last week actually.. i degreased n wire brushed where there was any rust.. & painted on 2 coats of underseal-waxoilusually one coat is enough tho Ah really? I thought fully synth was better on an FI engine, but I will listen to the more knowledgable haha, iirc 10-40 is thicker when cold but the same when warm as 5w-40? As long as the 10-40 is fine i'll use that? Is it vital I get the most expensive brand or is the decent ranged comma stuff any good?I've used synerg fully synth in my old car?As for the underseal, that what I was thinking of doing, is it easy to get all the dust and muck off with degreaser or panel wipe?and is that the hammerite underbody seal with added waxoyl?Im a bit reluctant about the fact it never dries and can crack but I dunno if there is anything better? Maybe schultz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
QUADLIGHT GT Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Ah really? I thought fully synth was better on an FI engine, but I will listen to the more knowledgable haha, iirc 10-40 is thicker when cold but the same when warm as 5w-40? As long as the 10-40 is fine i'll use that? Is it vital I get the most expensive brand or is the decent ranged comma stuff any good?I've used synerg fully synth in my old car?As for the underseal, that what I was thinking of doing, is it easy to get all the dust and muck off with degreaser or panel wipe?and is that the hammerite underbody seal with added waxoyl?Im a bit reluctant about the fact it never dries and can crack but I dunno if there is anything better? Maybe schultz10w-40 millers oil is wht i use it's really good tbh!as for underseal give the underbody a really good clean with a soft brush & degreaser using a towel thts wht i do with all my cars lolunderseal with added waxoil is probs the best stuff around.. ive been using it for over 5 years now.. it never cracks at all Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 ill probs go for the 10 40 then...although i originally meant 5 40 not 5 50 in my first post....is semi or fully synth best?And ah i see...Ill probs go for that then or some schutz spray on version? My mechanic has said i can use the ramp and his gun etc so will it be okay to do it in a few weeks inside a garage? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
QUADLIGHT GT Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 ill probs go for the 10 40 then...although i originally meant 5 40 not 5 50 in my first post....is semi or fully synth best?And ah i see...Ill probs go for that then or some schutz spray on version? My mechanic has said i can use the ramp and his gun etc so will it be okay to do it in a few weeks inside a garage?i use semi synthetic.. , fully synthetic will be the evan better stuff as for underseal i personally thing the spray on makes a mess as it sprays all over.. so i normally paint it on with a soft paint brush!jus mke sure the underbody is fully dry n clean before u start painting..not a hard task really!i did mine on ''axle stands'' took me a full week on a proper professional job.. the finish is very neat! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 Yeah i'm gonna have to mask some areas up and clean others with panel wipe after but i would rather get into all the areas with the gun.And yeah well my plan is to jetwash the underneath the day before....then take it to the garage and further clean it with some soap and a brush and cloth, then dry and wipe down with panel wipe....then heat gun, leasve a while and heat gun again before starting?My only dilemma is my mechanic says he has some schutz type underbody seal, and said i should use that rather than the hammerite underbody seal with waxoyl as the waxoyl means it will never really dry whereas his does dry eventually, but will this mean it will crack and cause rust to develop even though my car is clean underneath with no signs of rust at present? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 Yeah i'm gonna have to mask some areas up and clean others with panel wipe after but i would rather get into all the areas with the gun.And yeah well my plan is to jetwash the underneath the day before....then take it to the garage and further clean it with some soap and a brush and cloth, then dry and wipe down with panel wipe....then heat gun, leasve a while and heat gun again before starting?My only dilemma is my mechanic says he has some schutz type underbody seal, and said i should use that rather than the hammerite underbody seal with waxoyl as the waxoyl means it will never really dry whereas his does dry eventually, but will this mean it will crack and cause rust to develop even though my car is clean underneath with no signs of rust at present?Anyone recommend a decent product?Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Toffinator Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 5w40 Fully or 10w40 Semi. Underseal wise i just use proper waxoyl, in a spray gun. if theres no rust at present just give it a coat of that everyyear, as it stays almost gooey. And as long as your car isnt covered in shite underneath, just scrub off flakey rust and lather it on. It mixes with dust and creates a seal, so it cant rust. no need to pressure wash underneath it. + All the chassis members will fill with water!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 i've done the oil mate, used 5w 40 fully synth.Its the underseal im worried about, surely if i pressure wash it the day before it will dry before i do it?And i'm wanting a bit more of like a permanent coating than waxoyl, that and i've never liked waxoyl myself for many reasons, you end up wiping off as much as you've put on if you work on the car a lot, and its highly flammable :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bean Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 I've sprayed on schultz using a compressor and schultz gun its good stuff. dont put it on bare metal though make sure theres some paint on what your spraying it onto and dont spray it on too thick or it doesnt dry right and bubbles up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 I've sprayed on schultz using a compressor and schultz gun its good stuff. dont put it on bare metal though make sure theres some paint on what your spraying it onto and dont spray it on too thick or it doesnt dry right and bubbles up.Ah really...i dunno if the stuff im using is genuine 3m schutz but deffo that type of thing and the bodyshop im doing it at said its good stuff.and yeah my cars pretty clean looking underneath...only bit of bare metal is the sill jacking points, is it worth doing them? If so ill grind them a little.,,and put a bit of paint on before sealing it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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