ForgedV Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) Right ive got a couple of questions is this the correct way to set it up mainly.block -> inline mocal thermostat -> through the oil cooler core -> then through to oil filter relocated -> then return back to the block.Surely im isolating my oil filter until its warmed up? Is that right?Also il be running in and bedding the new piston rings only in the engine im expecting fine swarf for the first thousand miles or so, would it be best to install the oil cooler after bedding it in or install it now?Says on the mocal website;Select a place, close to the engine and away movingparts, to insert the thermostat where oil hoses arerunning parallel. If a remote filter is used the thermostatmust be installed AFTER the filter or oil bypassunfiltered when cold.Going by what they've said the oil filter will be bypassed when cold, is everybody elses the same? Just after some information and opinions please.Thanks for your helpRich Edited May 4, 2012 by ForgedV Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbo Grant Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 You want the thermostat in the line out from the filter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ForgedV Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 I know grant ive drawn it down now and worked it out lol thanks anyway Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ForgedV Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 For those of you who will search this hopefully this helps. This is for Mocal OT Inline thermostats.Block -> Oil Filter In -> Oil Filter out -> Thermostat In Cold Side, by passes Oil cooler core when cold, hot side on other then flows through cooler -> Returns to stat -> Returns to block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Idrees Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Fit the oil cooler after bedding in the engine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ForgedV Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Fit the oil cooler after bedding in the engine I thought this but cant understand the reason why? Could you explain ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Idrees Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 When running a brand new forged engine there are likely to be a few small metal particles/shavings etc (hence some people removing the sump after 100 miles or so during running in process). You don't want any of those tiny bits getting stuck in the oil cooler pipes or the cooler itself, besides I'm sure you won't be driving under conditions that really require an oil cooler? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ForgedV Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) I'm not running a brand new engine as said in my first post mate, its all the same head and bottom end bar new pistons and rings gasket etc and it's easier to get it all bolted up and fitted now. And I would of thought the amount of oil pressure running through it all would stop anything like that from happening and having the magnetic sump plug and obviously regular oil changes for the first 1000 miles or so it would be ok? Edited May 5, 2012 by ForgedV Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ForgedV Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Bump Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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