The Toffinator Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 As above just got my 5E Block back from the machine shop and they have forgot to use my ARP Main BOLTS (Not studs) to fit the crank caps and used the Toyota onesDoes anybody have the Torque settings and the sequence to undo and tighten the mains back on?Cant seem to find it and taggys guide is missing it! Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taggy Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Hey, i will have a dig around for you now, although to be honest i wouldnt worry about the main caps not being swapped to ARP bolts, the mains are not as critical as the head bolts and make no difference to the build. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taggy Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Ah its not in there because i used toyota orignal bolts so used the toyota specs which are Main Bearing Cap Bolt (2) ........................ 42 (57) I would assume the specs for tightening these will be identicle to the toyota specs, if they are different they would be supplied as a spec sheet with the bolts, if there are none go with toyota specs above. but like i said seems alot of hasstle to swap them, i cant see any benefit using ARP on the cap bolts aside from changing them if you had it in bits building it already Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Toffinator Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 Thanks very much mate, I will double check to see if theres any specs included!And also aren't Toyota main bolts stretch type? If so surely I want to be changing them?And I thought ARP Mains held a lot harder/more pressure etc. Shame not too fit them when I already have them :/And for the tightening sequence, is it the same as most other 4 cylinder motors, ie starting from the middle and work your way out? (If I choose to change them) Also just to add, are the ARP Headbolts M10 Spline over toyotos M9? Thanks!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glanzagee Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Undo Putting backSry can't help with the arp specs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glanzagee Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Oops ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 (edited) 60 ft/lbs is the mark you want, in 3 stages. I would swap them out, they apply more force to counteract when the big end journal tries to push/pull the cap into an egg shape under load. Edited October 10, 2013 by AdamB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Toffinator Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 Hmm dont know what to do now, says i have to check everything and align hone etc after installation, Is this true or can i just check everything turns over freely? Surely it wont twist anything etc? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Personally when blue printing a motor it should always be line bored on both the crank and cam caps, that's what I do anyway. It's not that it twists anything but due to being a higher clamping load they mean it may pull the cap closer to the crank.Check the oil clearances again, that will give you an idea if the cap has moved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Toffinator Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 Ahhhhh balls! Bottom end has been built by the engine shop, if i swap to arp main bolts now will i feck the build up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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