Bearing Ratings

[Chris Green]

Does anyone know what ACL bearings are rated to, RPM wise?

Anyone have experience of running high RPM on a 4e or 5e?

Anyone run high RPM on Genuine Toyota Bearings?

[AdamB]

What rpm are you thinking? I doubt you'll have any issues, Spuddy ran like 9200rpm on ACL's I believe but they were checked and replaced every few race meetings.

[Chris Green]

Was planning on running around 9000 rpm, maybe higher if the bearings are up to it.

On top of that, anyone have an idea on what Cruise Valve springs are rated to. On RHD Japan it states over 7500rpm, but doesn't give a top end figure.

[morgey]

9k that'll be mad. Prob need custom and or double valve springs for that?

Bearings, toyota should be fine it will be oil pressure you'll want to keep up to make sure they dont run dry. That will be your main issue i would have thought

[Chris Green]

Do you not think the cruise ones will be up to the job? I do have a lot of things to be looking into before I start getting the engine built.

Any ideas on engine oil?

[morgey]

Deffo need under bucket shims otherwise you'll pop the shim out of the oem ones with harsh cams as i imagine you plan on running?

Hard to say on cruise springs tbh have to speak to people that use them but most engines that rev over 8.5k start using double springs.

You really will be going into unknown territory with a 4e running it that high. Be a lot to look into regarding engine saftey and reliability. Worth speaking to a couple of engine builders getting some different opinions on how to do things.

Finding the weak points of the engine before you do it and correcting them.

Oil depends on engine spec. I run my 20v on millers fully synth 5w30 and my other will be on fuchs titan race pro s 5w 40 stuff, both rev out to 8400 stock and upto 9k on plug and play ecus, but id imagine something like 10w50 would be more suited to a highly strung engine, but again see what some engine builders recommend.

[AdamB]

Is it going to be a N/A or turbo motor?

If N/A your going to encounter quite a few problems, mainly cylinder head problems.

You can run stiff single valve springs no problem, the problem is if you start going too stiff with single or double valve springs you end up losing power because the friction and mechanical losses are greater.

What you want is some Beehive valve springs, I doubt cruise valve springs will be up for it and tbh I would want to get something where I know the exact specs of them.

Oil wise you can increase the oil pressure, you should be fine with either ACL or OEM bearings with something like a 5w30.

Post up what your spec list is going to be mate, I would be very surprised if a 4E could keep up its volumetric efficiency to rev to 9k to maintain power.

[Chris Green]

Cheers for the info guys, looks like I have a few further things to consider.

As far a spec goes Adam, I plan on running the following.

5e

0.5mm HG

Forged Rods

ARP Rod Bolts

ARP Head Studs

OEM Barings

Cruise Valve Springs

Speedvision billet cams

Supra Valves (depending on how Phil gets on)

Headwork (to what extent, I'm not sure yet)

Further lightening & balancing to the bottom end

Levin ITB's

[AdamB]

Sounds like a very interesting spec mate!

What will the spec be on the cams? They the 265 degrees with 8.8mm lift?

[Chris Green]

265 degree with 8.7mm.

Hoping for a high revving N/A beast.

I know your well clued in on all the technical side of things Adam, do you reckon with a spec like the above will be up to the job? Of course I will be running through everything with a well reknowned engine builder over here.

[AdamB]

The spec will be fine no doubt about it, although not sure on the valve springs but that's just my opinion, just paying for jdm tax and would prefer something from a valve train manufacturer like Supertech or Ferea.

Reving it to 9k I'm not so sure. I don't think it will continue to make power that high up but its obviously something that needs to be tested to see.

Really depends on the engine you want, is it going to be an all out power chaser or something with mid range as well. I think I would do either valves or cams but not both to start off with at least until some testing has been done.