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Pretty easy to do but don't think there is a guide.

Get engine to normal operating temp, turn off and bridge out e1 and te1 in the diagnostic socket. This locks your timing to allow you to set base timing. Locate notch on bottom pulley and mark with a little white paint marker or tipexx. Find the 10 and 0 degrees marker on the lower timing belt cover. Mark these also. Start engine and use timing light to align the marks with 10 degrees. You will have to slacken the two 12mm bolts on the distributor to allow it to turn. When the mark is aligned with the 10 degree mark tighten one of the bolts on the distributor and re-check timing for alignment. If good turn off engine and remove wire from diagnostic socket and tighten remaining 12mm bolt. You are now good to go.

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The problem you have is if you retard the ignition timing on the distributor you are also changing the injection timing. The Ecu gets its signal for injection timing from the distributor too.

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The Ecu gets its reference point from the distributor. This provides reference for tdc and when to inject fuel. The pick up is mounted to the distributor body. The part which you turn when adjusting ignition timing. The induction part is mounted to the part that is driven by the cam. Moving the distributor will adjust the reference point for injection.

For example, if the injection point is say 10 degrees after tdc (for example not a fact) it is now going to be 12 degrees after tdc. If you go the other way it will be 8 degrees after tdc. So the length of time the injector fires will be the same but the inlet valve will open slightly later or earlier. (In reference to the injection)

My honest opinion (take it or leave it) set it to 10 degrees btdc as the manufacturer intended and get a piggyback to adjust your ignition timing. More costly but safer in my opinion.

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I know, but the injectors will fire at a different time in relation to the valves.

The whole point of bridging the ports in the diagnostic port is to obviously lock the ignition timing. In doing this it also gives you a reference point to set the point of injection. If the engine had separate crank and cam sensors separate to the distributor it would be fine. But because it is in itself a sensor, positioning it wrong will effectively give an incorrect reading. This incorrect reading can have a knock on effect to the Ecu. Better off with a piggyback that way ignition timing can be altered electronically.

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