morgey

I see what you're saying, in my head removing it would make it worse as you would have to apply more force to cou ter it.

However i guess your thinking is with it being heavier from no PS, thats going to reduce the amount of torque steer as it would need more force to pull the steering.

Ill make a list up and bring it up with the admin.

Mine with an lsd was pretty noticable, mines a ae111 oem helical (trd) item so torque biases so throws the power to whichever wheel has more grip/isnt spinning so that can cause worse torque steer than if it was a clutch type lsd which locks both wheels together.

Has anyone actually tried filing the rack with grease and getting rid of all the fluid ?

are you going down the electric pump route morgy ?

Has anyone actually tried filing the rack with grease and getting rid of all the fluid ?

I thought this the other day when i saw that post, Be interested to know if its the same people.

I removed mine out of necessity, just didn't have the room in my bay woth the 20v in there. (Without cutting the chassis rail)

I did a few track days and a fair amount of milage with it looped and i never really enjoyed it. It was always lacking a directness that it had with powersteering, the only thing i would say was a bonus was that you felt more of the bumps and undulations in the road but then it also over exaggerated the bump steer.

After having my corolla and the starlet i really didnt enjoy driving the starlet due to the steeing feel alone.

I had a high pressure line made up for my electric setup, just went to a pipe place gave them a cut off section of the old pipe and he just made up a replacement.

Only thing was he couldnt match the internal compression/taper fitting but gave me dowty washers to seal it all instead and it works fine. Pretty sure it was just a standard M20 fine thread or something similar.

Cv joints can be had individually, id-workz on here sells them, you will need to somehow count the splines on yours then order the correct one.

You may also need a new splindle in the hub as if yours is knackered, the new joint might not fit or still be loose. I would just buy a 2nd hand hub complete or just the spindle and stick a new bearing in.

Love chasers, cleans up well too!

Good to see you back on the scene aswell

Come on then, that list isnt going to tick itself off, i want to see 1 a day being crossed off 😉

But seriously its good to have some progress and pictures so go with

Easiest way is Upload to photobukcet or similar the post the img link.

If youre a paid member you can upload directly if you switch to the full version and go on the full editor.

Art is a brand of piston if you google it. Seem to be a japanese brand so might have been done before it was imported

Had a go at painting my cover on friday, Didnt bake it as some people had suggested but had it all gone to plan it would have been fine. However even after cleaning it thoroughly there was a few specs of something on it so had to apply more paint to that area which cased it to wrinkle up differently to the rest.

The back half came out well, the front im going to sand back and repaint

Its a different finish to that of a honda but its still decent.

Great write up, keep us updated with future posts 👍

Piston part number 47731-50020

Lh caliper (complete) 47750-12420

Rh caliper (complete) 47730-12420

Not sure of you can cross reference them with bigred for their parts?

Also heres a list of other european only toyotas that use the same pistons. Some of which are in the rear brakes...

02/1992-12/1995 TOYOTA CARINA E AT190,CT190,ST191. 47-05: FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER & DUST COVER

06/1991-07/1996 TOYOTA CAMRY SXV1*,VCV1* 47-07: REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER & DUST COVER

03/1992-06/1996 TOYOTA CAMRY SXV10,VCV10. 47-07: REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER & DUST COVER

12/1989-09/1994 LEXUS LS400. UCF10 47-07: REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER & DUST COVER

10/1994-07/2000 LEXUS LS400. UCF20 47-07: REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER & DUST COVER

Yup same mounts just the wiring side of things that differ. Not sure what fuel economy would be like but id expect 35-40mpg on a run and 30-35ish around town depending on how you drive haha.

Looks a great base to work from and you have a great choice for inspiration.

Pretty sure toyota have always used toyota branded cambelts on their engines so thats probably been replaced at some point.

Only thing i would say is if doing a 4e swap why not 5efe swap it? More power and torque for the same amount of work...

Any time

This is the toyota kit its £50ish and does both sides

Part no. 04479-12170

Welcome along, enjoy your stay here.

Could be a sticky throttle cable or throttle body. Not had the issue myself so someone might be able to advise better

Check the shock is done up and the nut ontop isnt loose.

Pretty sure socks did a guide on fixing that issue and it was just a case of wrapping a cable tie around the gearbox.

If it wasnt that it was the electric windows 🤔

Theres 2 adjusters, 1 on the handbrake and one on each of the drums. they can be done by jacking the car up and getting in behind the drum, theres a small oval cover that pops off then you can turn a gear with a screwdriver to wind them out some more.

You may need new brake shoes if its not been done it a while

20v cambelts are £20 from toyota dude.

The tensioner is hydraulic which for normal road use is fine but if not sure, convert to manual, buy new, or use an MRP item.

Then idler is probably the most expensive item.

Nothing locks them but there is a good few markings to set the timing too.