montanajr

If its just over 70 that'll be fine, speedo will be out by 2/3mph. Do it, and stop being a fanny!

When I was 18 I payed £1400 Fully Comp in my name, with a few mods declared. So its definately do-able, infact, very doable.

I ran a 9s once.

I am bare strong tbh. I'll go have another fiddle and report back.

yeah might just take the whole cable out and see. Would a kink mess it up?

Fuck sake, this is why I hate cars. Changed all the bulbs on my dash fine. Was refitting the dash, put all the plugs back in and speedo cable. But now my speedo doesn't work. Checked where it plugs into gbox, and its in there nice and tight. It also clips properly into the back of the dash like it was before. But the speedo just doesn't work. Any ideas what it could be? Really need some help getting it fixed, thanks guys! Chris.

Hey, I have a few bulbs out on my dash, so much so, at night I can't really see my speedo all that well. I was wondering, how easy they were to change? Do new ones need to be soldered in? Any one got a little tutorial or something? Thanks, Chris.

Probs be, bing, bang, BOOM.

No. Try it on your car, and give us some feedback.

Pfft...sr20's are for nubs. Ha I josh. I didn't know that to be fair. Nah the sr20 is a good engine, my mates running about 320 on one with no internal work whatsoever, and his cars lurvely quick, but a RB would just be super cool. But in truth, making a RB30 "DET" would be a mission. Fuck that actually.

I'm gonna get a 200 and put a RB30 in it. One day! Yum yumz.

So is this your 200 ecksjay? Mwuahaha...I jest. Looks lovely, sounds sexy. Well dones!

Welcome to the layer cake son!

Even with long ass pliers I still end up burning me hands lol

Sell me it for £15.

Yeah, I'll sort it out tomorrow. More fun of setting up the actuator, going for a test drive, then burning my hands trying to adjust it! Love it

Oh fuck this. I tried fitting it your way like above, and it did not work. Only boosted 8psi and no matter how many clicks I did it would not increase (so obviously actuator was controlling boost). So I swapped the hoses over like you said, so tried both variations of the above and it does the same thing! I'm gonna rip the whole thing off tomorrow! Before I fitted this MBC using my HKS actuator alone I could run 11psi and it would hold it properly til redline. The way I had this MBC setup before (i.e. venting to atmosphere) made it run 10psi but it would drop off to about 6/7 at over 5500 revs. And with it plumbed in that way, a single click upwards would make me hit fuel cut so I could not run my beloved 11psi. I miss being able to run 11psi constantly, hate this 7-10psi depending what you rev it to bollocks. So, moral of the story, a HKS actuator is actually better than an eBay MBC for controlling boost and a spur of the moment decision to buy a £15 MBC for no real reason, is ill advised. Grrr...

Just did an oil change so was under the car, got some pics. As you can see, I ran out of heat wrap :'(

Failed. 1) Had no rear fog. 2) Had no bracket holding silencer to chassis. 3hours later after wiring in a fog, arguing with my dad 'because I told him I needed a rear fog (he disagreed! rofl) and searching for the biggest U-Bolt known to man, I went back and passed. The guy had no problems with it being a front exit, couldn't care less. But all mine has is a bracket from piping to block, and he said that in all cars they have atleast 1 or 2 rear silencer hangers holding the silencer to the car. He said from a safety point of view, if the welds were to break, the silencer would come lose straight away and drop onto the floor. I would either run over it or someone else, which would be dangerous. So I put a huge U-Bolt around the silencer, made up a bracket that bolted to the chassis and that was that. Fair enough I guess. No other advisorys either Lovely stuff.

Is that the carbon back box from Halfords? Looks quite nice mate, is it proper loud? Lookin' good fella!

What didya run?

Top - vacuum pipe going to little inlet on the intake mani (you'll see where it is when you remove the old one) Bottom - goes to fuel return line, again you'll see this when you remove the old one. Side - goes to fuel rail via fuel rail adaptor. Other side - you can put a gauge in here or splice one into the fuel line coming off the other side, depends what gauge you buy.

Ah yes the standard actuator is dual port, but the HKS one is single port, is that why mine works - 'because I have a HKS? EDIT: When fitting my brothers we had to block the VSV valve coming off of his actuator as his was a twinport actuator. Think I understand know lol. But I have a HKS actuo, hence why mine is working.

Well it would only take 2secs to switch it over to the way you have it down, but then whats the point of the T piece then? (Obviously so you can have lengthier cable to stick the controller in the cabin) but like, I'm confuzzed.

It cannot be my HKS actuator. I took the responsibility off of the actuator by unwinding it basically as far as it goes. I went out for a test drive with it like this, so actuator completely wound out and MBC turned off and I had no boost. I then turned the MBC two clicks and its running bang on 10psi. I'm not arguing, but its strange it works! by the way, dunno if this is important, but I'm not running hi/lo boost, fuk that shiz. edit; furthermore, my brother is running the same MBC on his GT4 and we have set it to 15psi and again, we followed the above directions (like in the turbosmart pdf) and it holds his boost spot on, no spikes, no drop off @ high revs - nowt.