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About RobSR

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  • Birthday 06/24/1991

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  1. Very few options for the autos. Probs easiest to get a Link or similar and fit it as a piggyback leaving the stock ecu to do the auto control
  2. Agreed that you can use the shield ground pin for that, but IMO you shouldn't be connecting any sensor grounds there. Hopefully Link have tied it into the PCB away from sensitive IC grounds and closer to power grounds but who knows. I probably over analyse but its good to have an understanding if you're really interested in it and reviewing/making your own decisions. Just because a couple of ECU manufactures do it a certain way, doesn't necessarily mean its correct. If you're interested and have spare time, i can recommend watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySuUZEjARPY Ri
  3. Yes I’m really not sure why they recommend doing it this way, as you’re putting shield noise onto a pin all the other sensors are connected too. All the big professional harness builders I’ve worked with who do stuff upto F1 level, put them to ECU/Power ground so I’ve always done it this way as I’ve had more consistent results. Just my experience so thought I’d point it out
  4. Just an FYI, on the knock you do not want to connect the shield and sensor ground together and then to the sensor ground pin. conductors to Knock input and sensor ground, the shield should then be terminated on its own one end only to a chassis/power ground
  5. Sorry, I can’t help I’m not a moderator / club owner. It was Rob B that used to be but not sure anymore
  6. Take the cluster out, look at the back and it shows all the PCB tracks so it’s pretty easy to work out
  7. So when you unlock the timing (by removing the bridge) your saying it doesn’t go to 0? If so that’s normal, most engines idle at 15-20 deg
  8. Yes a valid point by Sam to check your base cam timing too
  9. You’d see the earth issue via the voltage in the ecu as injectors are on the same circuit If fuel pressure is fine, it may just be an injector issue - it’s possible they may not actually be 550’s? yes they should fit their own dyno lambda too so they can compare between the AEM reading; the AEM are notoriously unreliable however, I’ve seen them read a whole 1.0:1 either way than what my calibrated dyno lambda read.
  10. No worries, the physical injector opening time will tell the tale, but it sounds like with the DC you’re running at said boost you’d be very rich which would then also effect power. You say they checked the fuel pressure, which 9 times out of 10 is the issue on starlets on the dyno, I’ve had it easily on 5 cars when tuning them, you’ll keep adding fuel, injector PW goes up, but the lambda doesn’t read any richer as the fuel pump can’t keep up. It’s common and then you end up with a funny looking fuel table too. If they are certain the fuel pressure is fine and isn’t dropping on
  11. Yes usually upto 330-350 ish at 1.7 bar on your turbo id expect Yes stock dizzy is fine at 300-350 too, when you start running higher boost levels the stock coil can struggle to give you the spark energy you need. N/A fuel lines also ok. Ask the guy mapping it what AFR and final injector pulse width you’re seeing at 1.4 bar around 6000 rpm. will PM you too.
  12. Take the RT comment with a pinch of salt, you won’t make 345 @ 1.4 bar unless you have a very well built head. A 2860 usually makes around 350 with completely stock head (unported etc) nearer to 1.8 bar It sounds like the power may be a little low, however this could be caused by a lot of variables, including the ignition advance the mapper has decided to use also. For the fuel system, you need to check the various components, and get the injectors cleaned/flow tested too. Stock fuel lines with a FPR are fine again for 350+ bhp. Yes they are the inj
  13. RobSR

    2020 motor sport

    They won’t reverse the result
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