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About RobSR

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  • Birthday 06/24/1991

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  1. If you try and keep it alive by keeping the throttle open i guess it still dies? I had the same problem on a UK car after an ECU swap not matching the immobiliser in the key, have you still got the stock ECU from the car you fitted the engine too?
  2. Nicely done, just as an FYI you crimp the weather seal into the “strain relief” tangs on the contact as one 👍
  3. https://www.instagram.com/p/CIvDAcWH5FI/?igshid=1bka0b95ah4x2
  4. Be good to get a dragy on it and see what the 100-200 time is!
  5. Remember to bridge the pins in the diagnostic connector to lock the timing too when you check
  6. Nice work on the patch/PnP harness, looks like you’ve done a nice job! It’s worth getting the IAT hooked up for sure also 🙂
  7. I’m all for constructive debates and conversations, but it seems you’ve got annoyed that I’ve just said it how it appears; as have some other members, but there we go. We can leave it at that and you can continue down your unique development path
  8. I’ve clarified in the alternator topic for those that weren’t following. Im not actually waiting for your data FYI, I have my own, I can post the X/Y plot now for coolant pressure on a high comp 4E for everyone to see; if you had it, you’d have posted it all the months ago when you were using your own “scare tactics” to other owners. The thing that frustrates me is, I do post constructive points, with evidence and data to back up my claims. Yourself however, do not; you post complete speculation that some unfortunate members will take as sound advice. I find it ev
  9. For clarification in regards to the overcharging point, not directly if everything is working yes, but I’ve had experience with over driven alternators’ regulation circuit failing, which then in turn would cause the overcharging issue. You may be fine, but it can also happen.
  10. Isn’t this the case with so many of your findings we are still waiting to see? Still waiting on your coolant pressure data for one..
  11. Yes don’t use IGF this is just a pointless Toyota thing that’s not needed. Id disregard the IGT method and wire it as diagram 1 on the VR example, this makes more sense; you also won’t need the pull-up wire for this. As said I don’t use them so it would be interesting to see how it’s been done on people who do, but thats the way I’d try it. You can try the IGT route, if it works without the pull-up leave it off, this will most likely just be to determine the switch logic of the TTL signal from the stock ECU I.e whether it needs to go 0-5v or 5v-0v to trigger the igniter
  12. How have you wired the “crank” sensor in to the DET? I don’t use them but if you share how you’ve done it I can take a look for you. There should be no reason to use a pull-up on a starlet as the crank is VR, you usually wire this to the pins you talk about to modify the timing rather than the IGT wire from how it reads; but if you overview how you’ve done the crank side I’m sure we can work it out.
  13. Very few for most setups, the car doesn’t have anything particularly current hungry on it. Changing alternators isn’t as simple as you think due to different drive speeds from the crank pulley etc they were designed to be used with. You could buy a new one and end up under it overdriving it as the 4E crank pulley will be a different size to what it was designed for; so it may be worse; or it may overcharge the battery which is not what you want either..
  14. It’s getting more and more frustrating seeing terrible advice and wild claims posted. For the love of god any owners reading this please run a vac referenced FPR on your boosted setups. P.S still waiting for examples of all these failures for every reason under the sun 🤔 There is going to be some real catastrophic failures if some of this advice is followed
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